Project 'sillyteg'

Man of Honour
Man of Honour
Joined
18 Oct 2002
Posts
12,264
Location
Cotswolds
OK, I thought I might as well get this thread kicked off, I'll probably be going over some stuff I have already covered in other threads, but I thought it would be better to start from the beginning.

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I bought the car in November last year with the following spec:

Engine

- B20 DOHC VTEC (2 litre) installed since May2005 (block was brand new at point of installation)
- Toda spec B cam inlet side
- Toda spec C cam exhaust side
- Crank & bearings smoothed & balanced.
- Uprated valve springs & retainers
- Full port and polish
- JDM 98 spec 4.785 gearbox & standard LSD
- JDM 98 spec drive shafts
- AP Racing clutch kit
- V-spec polished Inlet manifold
- Spoon 70mm throttle body
- Magnecore leads & NGK spark plugs
- High velocity intake pipe with custom Cold Air Intake
- Sard fuel regulator
- Uprated Fuel pump
- Mugen spec 4-1 Exhaust Manifold
- Exhaust heat wrap
- De-cat – Apexi N1 exhaust system
- Mugen low temp Thermostat
- Mugen fan switch
- Samco hoses
- Fwin deep core alloy radiator
- Fwin 1.3bar radiator cap
- Spoon oil cap
- Spoon reservoir covers
- Skunk2 Short shifter


Chassis

- SDT coilovers (12kg Front 10kg Rear)
- SDT alloy rear arms & bushes
- Ractive & Mugen Rear upper strut bar
- Spoon wheel studs
- JDM 98 spec 5 stud hubs & all arms
- JDM 98 spec Anti Roll bars (thicker)
- Rota 16" Grid alloys (unmarked & as new)
- Yokohama Advan Neova AD07 tyres 205/45/16


Brakes

- DC5 Brembo 4 pot calipers
- 300mm Brembo slotted discs (front)
- Front: Ceramic-Carbon-Metallic pads (0-800 degrees C)
- Braided lines all round
- JDM 98 spec rear brake disc and calipers
- Rear: Mintex pads
- Dot 5.1 brake fluid
- ABS disabled


Interior

- 330mm Sparco suede steering wheel
- Sparco Steering wheel spacer
- JDM 98 spec gear gaiter
- Razo pedal set
- Do-Luck VTEC indicator
- Autogauge Oil Temp & Pressure gauge
- Autogauge Water Temp gauge
- Autogauge AFR meter


Exterior

- JDM 98 spec rear bumper
- V-spec carbon fibre bonnet
- V-spec carbon fibre grille
- Clear side indicator lenses
- Phillips 5000k HID conversion
- OE Honda 98 spec rear lights


Unfortunately on the way home from picking the car up the cambelt failed, bending all exhaust valves and 4 intake valves. One head rebuild later the car was running again, but not to it's full potential, so I decided to buy some decent engine management, namely a Hondata S300:

Hondata.jpg


In the mean time I also fitted a Megan Racing H-Brace, and a Whiteline ajustible rear ARB, and also some Spoon style mirrors.

Then came the time to get the cams dialled in and the S300 mapped, I decided on Performance Autoworks to do the tuning as they have a great reputation, I haven't heared a single bad word said about them.

So I dropped into them for mapping, the next day I got a call saying that it's not going well, the car isn't making any power on VTEC. Long story short, it turns out that it's just a big mismatch of parts, the Toda cams were never going to work with the lower compression of the B20B bottom end, and the inlet manifold isn't ideal for N/A applications either.

I could have just tried some standard cams etc, but I deciced to take the opportunity to improve it again. I was all settled on some custom cams, headwork and custom inlet manifold from Perrymoo, but after some research I started to think about going down the forced induction route. I finally settled on a plan, I would turbo it on the stock internals at a low boost, and over the following months get together low comp pistons, rods etc and rebuild it over the winter for some real boost.

I then found a bottom end for sale that has already been built for boost, at a price I would be mad to pass up. So that's where I am at the moment, over the next couple of weeks I'll be ordering the parts for the turbo and picking up the built bottom end, then putting it all together :D

The spec of the engine will be:

- Built B18C6
- 9:1 Arias Pistons
- Eagle Con Rods
- ARP rod bolts
- Darton Sleeve Kit (84mm bore)
- Cometic Head Gasket
- ARP Head Studs
- Skunk2 Turbo 2 cams
- Toda valve springs & retainers
- Full port and polish
- V-spec polished Inlet manifold
- Spoon 70mm throttle body
- Turbonetics/Garrett T3/T04E 50t .63 A/R hybrid turbo
- Egay cast manifold
- Egay downpipe
- Egay intercooler kit
- Tial 38mm Wastegate
- RC 550cc injectors
- Sard fuel regulator
- Uprated Fuel pump
- Mugen low temp Thermostat
- Mugen fan switch
- Samco hoses
- Fwin deep core alloy radiator


That lot should be good for 400+, but I'll be shooting for 300-350whp to keep it reliable. Should be interesting ;)

I'll be updating this thread with pics etc as I progress :cool:
 
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How will it handle that kind of power through the front wheels?

It'll be near the limit of what's drivable for sure, but the Integra has a supurb chassis and decent LSD, so should be OK. Besides, the throttle isn't an on/off switch ;)

[TW]Fox;11432805 said:
I dont like Tegs but I admire their purist approach to driving - excellent chassis, the right amount of power, and for speed, add lightness.

Therefore, I disapprove of this project. Sorry :(

TBH you are quite right, it's daft and makes no sense. I probably have taken leave of my senses. But hey, it'll be interesting ;)

I think I would rather invest that money and buy the new shape teg

I wouldn't be able to get a DC5 for what this is going to cost me.
 
Jonny's moving house at mo and probably hasnt had time to reply, but I know he is keen to sell his Turbo stuff. Dont buy any crap off ebay, especially cheap turbos.

Do it properly, ala Blox manifold and 'Disco potato' :D

The turbo I'm looking at isn't a crappy ebay special, it's a genuine Turbonetics/Garrett unit. It's cheap because it's a clearance item (it's available for $400).

But like I said, I'm happy to talk to Jonny about his stuff ;)

I remember not so long ago you chopped in the RX7 and tried to cut down on the modding bug...nice to see that went well :p

:o :D
 
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I hope I'm like you when I grow up, DreX.

I keep getting scared that I'll grow out of tinkering and fast cars :(

Being in my 30's and having 4 kids, a wife and a mortgage I keep expecting to wake up one day and come over all sensible and grown up.

I don't think it'll ever happen :(
 
Oi you lot, stop spamming my thread with your thinly disguised homo-erotic flirting :mad:

;)
 
Ah ok
are you doing anything to the brakes suspension etc?

No need, it's already done. Suspension and brakes as they are now:

Chassis

- SDT coilovers (12kg Front 10kg Rear)
- SDT alloy rear arms & bushes
- Ractive & Mugen Rear upper strut bar
- JDM 98 spec front Anti Roll bar (thicker)
- Whiteline 24mm ajustible rear ARB
- Megan Racing front H-Brace

Brakes

- DC5 Brembo 4 pot calipers
- 300mm Brembo slotted discs (front)
- Front: Ceramic-Carbon-Metallic pads (0-800 degrees C)
- Braided lines all round
- JDM 98 spec rear brake disc and calipers
- Rear: Mintex pads
- Dot 5.1 brake fluid
- ABS disabled
 
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I prefer it without ABS, it means I can modulate my own braking rather than relying on the ABS system to do it for me.
 
out of interest did your insurers cause a fuss about this? I've heard they really dislike messing with ABS.

TBH they didn't mention it, I just gave them the list of mods when I got the car and they never said anything about it...
 
I probably missed it but when are you hoping to be complete? and is Pez tuning it?

Hopefully it shouldn't take long to get it complete, if I'm not left waiting for any parts I'm hoping to get it running for Japfest, which is 6 weeks away today.

I'd like Pez to tune it, but with him being so busy I'm not sure if he'll have the time before Japfest, so it'll probably be going back to Richy at Performance Autoworks.
 
Would I be right in thinking you've already made this car in FM2 Drex? :)

Of course :D

Oh and Penski, for the love of god, stop spamming this thread, and go and seek attention some other way...

I wouldn't call that post of the older generation 'teg spam, I think it looks supurb :D

And to be fair all the crap and spam in this thread isn't exclusively down to penski, you all know who you are :rolleyes:;)

Does Mr MOT man not want to fail you for not having the ABS on or can he not tell that it had ABS in the first place?

It's only an MOT failure if the ABS light is lit AFAIK. It's not lit ;)
 
Trust me, I totally see where people are coming from WRT to keeping it N/A. I've been going backwards and forwards over the last week or so, but I keep coming back to wanting boost. Yes it goes against everything I bought an Integra for, it goes against what the ITR is about, but **** it, I have this uncontrollable need to do it :o
 
[TW]Fox;11442973 said:
My advice in this thread is failing to conform to stereotype.

You are clearly a moron, stop tarting up a crap old Honda and buy a BMW 5 Series.

:D
 
TBH I don't mind it not spooling till about 3.5k, it'll help get traction.

Note I'm talking about spool-up, not 'Lag'. They are two different things ;)
 
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Right, I'm going to be starting this very soon, I'm picking the short engine up on sunday and will start pulling the car apart within the next few days.

I'm itching to start ordering bits, so if you still want to sell your stuff Jonnycoupe drop me an email ASAP ;)
 
[TW]Fox;11465498 said:
Chuck the Teg on Pistonheads, sell it to somebody in his 20's with his cap on backwards and buy yourself something properly quick you can make even quicker.

Starter for 10: Honda S2000, Porsche Boxster or a late MkIV Supra.

Not going to happen.

S2000 - Would love one, but even adding together what I would get for my Integra and what I'm about to spend on it, I wouldn't get a decent one.

Boxter - Ditto the above, plus not my COT atall. They just don't do anything for me.

Supra - Great cars, but again not for me. They are more of a GT than a sports car and weigh the same as a small planet. I like my cars light and nimble. Plus I've already done the RWD Jap beast thing ;)

There's no point trying rationalise it Fox, I'm building a 350+bhp 1-ton FWD lump of madness, it's daft and makes no sense, especiallly considering my previous two cars were better suited to big-power tuning. But, like fapping to midget pr0n, the fact that it's so wrong is what makes it fun ;)

Nothing is going to budge me from this stupidity with the 'teg. It's all in place, it's happening ;)

Besides, it's not like the car is going to become an understeering torque-steering mess. Unless I drive like a ham-fisted buffoon and mash the throttle mid-bend, It'll still corner the same as it did before, and it'll stop the same. It'll just have a hell of a lot more power when the road straightens out.....
 
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I think I may have missed it but where are you going to let the turbo cut in, before vtec does or within vtec? Am I right in thinking that the engine you are sourcing will allow you to bring the revs up higher then standard? :)

The turbo will come in before VTEC. The redline will stay as standard, there's no point revving it higher on a turbo build as the majority of 'streetable' turbochargers start to run out of breath up at the high end of the rev range.
 
Con: Whilst that seems tempting, I would still have to get mine running properly before I sell it, then wait god knows how long to sell it etc. etc...

I quite honestly can't be arsed, it's not like I'm unhappy with the Integra as a car, and I don't feel a particular need/want to get shot of it.

Simon/Jonny: Do you think an oil cooler is neceserry?
 
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It'll be getting an SSQV dumpvalve, and an external wastegate with a screamer pipe.

surely you could sell most of your bits with part x for standard stuff or whatever? wasnt it just hte cams you had issues with?

It would still need setting up and mapping again though. Like I said in my edit above, it's not like I feel a particular need/want to get shot of the 'teg, so I can't be arsed with the hastle of parting it out and selling it.
 
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Should have a couple of parts pics tomorrow, I started ordering some of the odds and sods today, tomorrow I should have a nice shiny aluminium catch can, and I also ordered some Energy engine mount inserts. These firm up the engine mounts and help reduce axle-tramp etc, combined with the engine torque damper I already have it will mean I'll have a very solidly mounted engine and transmission :cool:

I'll mean more NVH, but meh, the 'teg creaks and rattles loads already, a bit more noise and vibration isn't going to bother be ;)

I also ordered an engine stand, 25 quid from good old ebay. Better than building it on the garage floor like I did with the RX7.......
 
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