Proposed loop design. Thoughts please

Michaeljcox24

Michaeljcox24

Michaeljcox24

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12 May 2010
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West Bromwich
loopc.jpg


Will be building this week all being well, assuming the parts come in time. Does it look ok? It's a HAF-X, 2 3GB 580's, the OcUK 360 kit, and the extra bits and pieces purchased from OCUK like the 140mm rad.

One thing I think I might need is an elbow fitting that goes from the 360 to the 140mm rad because of the awkward angle. I drew it in with a white arrow on pic.

Is there anything that sticks out as 'that won't ever work in a month of Sundays' ?
 
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I've already ordered the kit, and it's due for delivery tomorrow. Tbh mate, anything will be better than the whine from the Phantom cards I've already got.

Since setting out to do this project a couple of weeks back, there's several things I've come to realise.

- Some people will tell you that for SLI you need a 360 and a 240. Others will tell you that a 360 on it's own will be ok and a 240 is overkill. It all depends who you talk to.
- Watercooling is not 'just' the kit, and there is a myriad of extra stuff you need on top of the kit itself, which needs to be budgeted for.
- Pre planning and talking to season watercoolers beforehand is an absolute must.

Just phoned OcUK and the kit is due for delivery Wednesday. Might wait till the weekend though until I've got some natural light to work with.


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pgi947 said:
When choosing how much radiator you need to use you need to factor in how how the components run and how thick of a radiator you can fit in.

Yes, in most cases a single 360 will cope with a 3 component loop, even a hot running one, but for me the whole point of watercooling is to give the lowest temps possible thus giving you the headroom for higher clocks and a higher performing system
Click to expand...

In your opinion then, is a 360 and a 140 enough ?
 
2500K. To be stable at 4.5 it needs 1.37

The cards... Well, one is a pig of an overclocker and the other one performs a bit better. In Afterburner, applying the same settings, the highest sensible o/c I can get before hitting the 90's (and seriously ridiculous fan noise) is 875MHz @ 1.025V
 
I'm gonna run off the IGpu for a couple of days while I fit the blocks. Then gonna start the loop Friday afternoon, and hopefully finish mid weekend, leak testing and stuff till Sunday lunch.
 
Nice rig, and raises an interesting point for me, which I was thinking about the other day. I notice that the inlet / outlet for the 360 is fixed in the orientation closest to the reservior, and not the other way round closest to the 140mm rad. Is this because you're going push pull, or because of the extra thick rad ?
 
Got home from work and kit / supplementary stuff has been delivered. Opened box, first thing I've noticed, but not sure of, is that one roll of hose is nowhere near enough. Also took one of the barbs out of the bag, and can't even get the hose over it. I'm guessing I've got to dip it in some hot water or something to soften it up first.
 
One the website it says '2 x XSPC 7/16 clear' but I've only got one length in the box. Also, the site says fans should be 1850's, when on the box they're 1450's.

Have sent webnote. Box has gone away for now.

P.S 5 bags of Haribo lol. Missis will be happy.
 
The tube is 140cm long.

I'm liking the nice weighty feeling of the pump / bay res and the block looks very good too. I read somewhere that the raystorm blocks can have LED's in them, which can be changed to red if you need them to be. Will have to read into it.
 
Had a reply from the lads @ OcUK, as suspect the tube was cut to two lengths, so that's ok. They said the performance of the 1450's and the 1850's is no different so that's why they stuck those in.

Consequently, I've ordered another length of hose which should be coming thursday, and sorry Mingey, but I've ripped you off and ordered a CM Haf 932 side panel. You're right, that grill on the side of the Haf-X would hide everything.

Does this sound ok for step by step:

1 - Take out cards, and run off IGpu.
2 - Install Blocks on cards with barbs.
3 - Flush out rads with tap water.
4 - Screw barbs into rads.
5 - Install rads and cpu block.
6 - Put barbs into res and install res.
7 - Hose up.
8 - Put CPU blanking connector onto 24 pin psu plug.
9 - Fill res with coolant, turn on power.
10 - Continue to fill res until loop full.
11 - Leak test.
12 - Get air out.
13 - Connect up 24 pin to board.

Boot rig.

Any input would be much appreciated.
 
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