Proposed loop design. Thoughts please

Michaeljcox24

Michaeljcox24

Michaeljcox24

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loopc.jpg


Will be building this week all being well, assuming the parts come in time. Does it look ok? It's a HAF-X, 2 3GB 580's, the OcUK 360 kit, and the extra bits and pieces purchased from OCUK like the 140mm rad.

One thing I think I might need is an elbow fitting that goes from the 360 to the 140mm rad because of the awkward angle. I drew it in with a white arrow on pic.

Is there anything that sticks out as 'that won't ever work in a month of Sundays' ?
 
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Yeah because i was thinking the cooling fluid has got a long way to travel from the 120 rad, through 2 gpu's then all the way back into the res and onto the cpu, so im guessing its not going to be very efficient.
The way you have just suggested seems better to me as the warmer fluid fro the gpu's and res hit the 360 and cool it nicely before it hits the cpu then gets a little chill from the 120 before it goes onto the gpu's.
 
Take a look at some of the project threads and inside the case threads on here and it will give you a better idea of what you should be aiming at, im not saying im right here by the way, im no expert as im still on air, but i have been researching water heavily as its my next project. I find the visual examples shown by other people very helpful.

Good luck with your build be sure to post sure pictures.
 
Loop order really makes no difference to temps, just make sure you have your res before/above the pump (which isn't a problem in your case), apart from that just make it as tidy as possible.
 
Your original loop order seems fine to me!
You dont have to put a RAD between components - thinking "hot liquid have to be cooled before going to the next block".
In a closed loop system(like yours), liquid will come to its equilibrium in time, so the component order does not matter - it matters only in very rare occasions, but for the ease of filling & draining, it is advisable to have the RES before pump(not applicable if you have a RES-Pump combo) and Darin port at the lowest part(or highest part if you can turn the loop upside down) of the loop.
 
If silence is important to you then consider getting a separate pump and reservoir. With a stand alone pump you have options to fully isolate it from the case so that vibration is not amplified by the case itself. With a res pump combo, or a pump which attaches directly to a bay res, you will inevitably get some vibration transfered to the case, and thus more noise than if it was fully decoupled.
 
I've already ordered the kit, and it's due for delivery tomorrow. Tbh mate, anything will be better than the whine from the Phantom cards I've already got.

Since setting out to do this project a couple of weeks back, there's several things I've come to realise.

- Some people will tell you that for SLI you need a 360 and a 240. Others will tell you that a 360 on it's own will be ok and a 240 is overkill. It all depends who you talk to.
- Watercooling is not 'just' the kit, and there is a myriad of extra stuff you need on top of the kit itself, which needs to be budgeted for.
- Pre planning and talking to season watercoolers beforehand is an absolute must.

Just phoned OcUK and the kit is due for delivery Wednesday. Might wait till the weekend though until I've got some natural light to work with.


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When choosing how much radiator you need to use you need to factor in how how the components run and how thick of a radiator you can fit in.

Yes, in most cases a single 360 will cope with a 3 component loop, even a hot running one, but for me the whole point of watercooling is to give the lowest temps possible thus giving you the headroom for higher clocks and a higher performing system
 
pgi947 said:
When choosing how much radiator you need to use you need to factor in how how the components run and how thick of a radiator you can fit in.

Yes, in most cases a single 360 will cope with a 3 component loop, even a hot running one, but for me the whole point of watercooling is to give the lowest temps possible thus giving you the headroom for higher clocks and a higher performing system
Click to expand...

In your opinion then, is a 360 and a 140 enough ?
 
2500K. To be stable at 4.5 it needs 1.37

The cards... Well, one is a pig of an overclocker and the other one performs a bit better. In Afterburner, applying the same settings, the highest sensible o/c I can get before hitting the 90's (and seriously ridiculous fan noise) is 875MHz @ 1.025V
 
Should be much much cooler under water, GPU's react very very well to water :) I've yet to have a GPU go over 50c on water, including a very heavily clocked 7970 @ 1.36v.

2500K is quite a cool running chip, should be spot on for a 360+140 rad setup on those components.
 
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