PSU Efficency Standards V running cost savings?

Hi so would something in the say 600-850Watt be good or go lower? but head Gold level?

Was looking at some Corsair ones (have they sorted out there issues yet?) like the HXi do you need the i? is that the ones you can remote control/monitor etc? as the Cats hell with remotes as presses all the buttons then chews them to bits! lol then the dog cocks it's leg over them to finish them off!!! nothing like Teamwork.:rolleyes::D

you'd think by now though they'd have PSU's than ran efficently on low switching out parts till feel the draw then add in like a buffer as there all squealing about how good they are?
 
area51 said:
Plus i would have thought by now they'd have psu's that can run very efficently at low draw like for browsing/idle as some people have pc as logged into places but idle and either not for punishing draw lods or use switching circuits to handle that if that makes sense?
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There is, the 80 Plus Titanium has a 90% rating at just 10% output. But when you are only using 100 W from the wall or less, if your gold rated put is only running at 80% efficiently (it's probably better than that) a 10% difference compared to a Titanium which would use 90 W. That 10 W saving isn't much. For every 100 hours of usage you'd save 1 KWh or about 15p. Or less as 80% is probably being unfair to any decent gold PSU.

So if you left your PC on 24/7 idle/low usage for a year the max saving would be about £13.
 
Sasahara said:
There is, the 80 Plus Titanium has a 90% rating at just 10% output. But when you are only using 100 W from the wall or less, if your gold rated put is only running at 80% efficiently (it's probably better than that) a 10% difference compared to a Titanium which would use 90 W. That 10 W saving isn't much. For every 100 hours of usage you'd save 1 KWh or about 15p. Or less as 80% is probably being unfair to any decent gold PSU.

So if you left your PC on 24/7 idle/low usage for a year the max saving would be about £13.
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Hi yes but one thing been wondering is? I have The Enermax 1000watt psu said silver rated but is meant to be pretty efficient with "PFC" thought that was a dodgey chicken shop?
Can't be using anywhere near 70% even i guess? so eyes open/on something lower wattedaged found a nearly new Seasonic Titianium @650 watt would that make a big difference to power saved? or would 850watt be better?
But guess you want a psu that runs more in the sweet spot for max efficentcy
 
I have changed my view a little now.

If we assume the rated capacity is actual power draw, then a higher efficient PSU is effectively also higher capacity.

So e.g. a 80% efficient 600w psu is really 480W vs a 90% efficient 600w psu is 540W?
 
area51 said:
Hi yes but one thing been wondering is? I have The Enermax 1000watt psu said silver rated but is meant to be pretty efficient with "PFC" thought that was a dodgey chicken shop?
Can't be using anywhere near 70% even i guess? so eyes open/on something lower wattedaged found a nearly new Seasonic Titianium @650 watt would that make a big difference to power saved? or would 850watt be better?
But guess you want a psu that runs more in the sweet spot for max efficentcy
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PFC has nothing to do with PSU's efficiency.
(in fact it increases PSU's power loss tiny bit)
Power Factor Correction makes sure PSU's current draw is sinusoidal and follows voltage and in same phase.
Without PFC current waveform would be distorted/out of phase with voltage.
Meaning some current would be just bouncing back and forth between power network and PSU.
(carrying that extra no work doing current causes transfer losses and needs thicker wiring to account it)

And that PSU is such grossly oversized for PC is your signature, that unless you've disabled power savings, I wouldn't bet on better than ~65% level efficiency when PC is idling/on desktop/you're reading this forum.
 
chrcoluk said:
I have changed my view a little now.

If we assume the rated capacity is actual power draw, then a higher efficient PSU is effectively also higher capacity.

So e.g. a 80% efficient 600w psu is really 480W vs a 90% efficient 600w psu is 540W?
Click to expand...
To wrong direction.

Efficiency doesn't affect in any way to output power.
You could have 10% efficient 1kW PSU...
Under full 1kW load it would just draw additional 9kW from the wall turning it into heat.
Assuming there was way to prevent it from melting and burning itself in seconds...
Even 50% efficient PSU's 1kW of heat would be challenge to cool.

90% efficient would draw 1kW/0,9 = ~1111 watts wasting that extra 111W as heat.
95% efficiency PSU would draw 1kW/0,95 = ~1053 watts from wall.
 
EsaT said:
PFC has nothing to do with PSU's efficiency.
(in fact it increases PSU's power loss tiny bit)
Power Factor Correction makes sure PSU's current draw is sinusoidal and follows voltage and in same phase.
Without PFC current waveform would be distorted/out of phase with voltage.
Meaning some current would be just bouncing back and forth between power network and PSU.
(carrying that extra no work doing current causes transfer losses and needs thicker wiring to account it)

And that PSU is such grossly oversized for PC is your signature, that unless you've disabled power savings, I wouldn't bet on better than ~65% level efficiency when PC is idling/on desktop/you're reading this forum.
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Hi it's just as it came not done anything with it if i can even?
 
EsaT said:
PFC has nothing to do with PSU's efficiency.
(in fact it increases PSU's power loss tiny bit)
Power Factor Correction makes sure PSU's current draw is sinusoidal and follows voltage and in same phase.
Without PFC current waveform would be distorted/out of phase with voltage.
Meaning some current would be just bouncing back and forth between power network and PSU.
(carrying that extra no work doing current causes transfer losses and needs thicker wiring to account it)

And that PSU is such grossly oversized for PC is your signature, that unless you've disabled power savings, I wouldn't bet on better than ~65% level efficiency when PC is idling/on desktop/you're reading this forum.
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So what/which size would you say? Guess GPU is the main draw and i take it newer ones use less power like 1080's how about AMD ones? as later will change if find something better for right price mind did think about a 2nd 970 but even with this board think 2nd runs @8x so?
 
area51 said:
So what/which size would you say? Guess GPU is the main draw and i take it newer ones use less power like 1080's how about AMD ones? as later will change if find something better for right price mind did think about a 2nd 970 but even with this board think 2nd runs @8x so?
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ok answer your own question ...
1.whats the main use of the pc ? and how long is it on for
1a is it overclocked ?
2.if it's gaming and on for 3-4 hrs at a time what watt's are you pulling . ? hwinfo can help with this rough guide
3. do you use it for just web surfing ? ie: facebork and porn ..
4. is it really worth all the hassle to save £12-50 a yr .. ?
 
chrcoluk said:
I will report back here if my new psu solves the weird issue I got, going from a 480w 12v rail to 640w 12v rail.
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That overspecced medieval design Coolerhamster would have been questionable for your signature's PC even as new.
And those secondary capacitors chosen for their cheap enough price are entirely protected from any cooling airflow. (bad place for even high quality capacitors)
So by now it could well be struggling to give clean voltage.
http://www.pc-experience.de/wbb2/thread.php?threadid=27581
 
flea.rider said:
ok answer your own question ...
1.whats the main use of the pc ? and how long is it on for
1a is it overclocked ?
2.if it's gaming and on for 3-4 hrs at a time what watt's are you pulling . ? hwinfo can help with this rough guide
3. do you use it for just web surfing ? ie: facebork and porn ..
4. is it really worth all the hassle to save £12-50 a yr .. ?
Click to expand...


Well at the moment it's oc'd @3910mhz spends far too much of the day on! easily 12hrs a day could be 20+ at times.Emprty the trash can(emails)first then mixture of gaming and browsing rest of the time not been on BF4 for a while but hope to on Iron(*****)sight atmo which has some odd/weird things happen could be them well some get it also but stutter/jitter and hit reg going to pot often.

But old I5 board thinking of building another pc? and run on linux for browsing/emails etc as have another Lian li tower case and just about everything to build another one unless put old 775 bboards in it for a play?
As could just put third ssd in this one on linux instead? Third option is just to build a low power one with I5 and just use this one for gaming etc?

Might have an issue with this PSU though as when put it all together other night plugged tester into ATX lead and was getting bleeping from think was 12volt-? couldn't see clearly as unit faced towards board so looking at an angle at night with poor light but was was to right of 12v getting 12volt on molexs as checked earlier with multimeter but will have a nose in later when get back.

Have just bought an 850w Seasonic Prime ultra Titanium of someone still has a years shop warranty Been offered another one @650w for £100 which could use for lower power pc?

quite enjoy modding/making things and just reminded my to look for those big grommets for mobo tray as this Lian li pc A70 cable runs are a bit dire!
 
area51 said:
How much difference between the Seasonic prime ultra Titanium and the Focus plus Platinum Won a 750w one on flea bay New for £67
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Besides notch better efficiency (crazy good down to very low loads) Prime serie has overal heavier component oversizing than Focus serie.
Titanium models particularly have some components sized up to twelve and half.

ATX specification requires 16ms hold up time PSU can provide power without mains voltage present.
PSU runs that time on charge stored into its primary/bulk capacitor.
Prime Titaniums have that capacitance enough oversized for 30+ ms hold up time.
So whole half wave (and half of next) of input AC can be missing without PSU caring a bit.
 
EsaT said:
Besides notch better efficiency (crazy good down to very low loads) Prime serie has overal heavier component oversizing than Focus serie.
Titanium models particularly have some components sized up to twelve and half.

ATX specification requires 16ms hold up time PSU can provide power without mains voltage present.
PSU runs that time on charge stored into its primary/bulk capacitor.
Prime Titaniums have that capacitance enough oversized for 30+ ms hold up time.
So whole half wave (and half of next) of input AC can be missing without PSU caring a bit.
Click to expand...


Hi cheers so smoother power delivery! so in similar to single phase motors and three phase or single cylinder to multi cylinder engines as always something going instead of waiting for it to happen!

The low loads is what want it for in a linux browsing pc
 
EsaT said:
Besides notch better efficiency (crazy good down to very low loads) Prime serie has overal heavier component oversizing than Focus serie.
Titanium models particularly have some components sized up to twelve and half.

ATX specification requires 16ms hold up time PSU can provide power without mains voltage present.
PSU runs that time on charge stored into its primary/bulk capacitor.
Prime Titaniums have that capacitance enough oversized for 30+ ms hold up time.
So whole half wave (and half of next) of input AC can be missing without PSU caring a bit.
Click to expand...


hi well had pc to bits yesterday deloused water loop! and put the prime ultra titanium in plus modded mobo tray for cable runs!
Must admit impressed it's "Silent" odd one is you think it's switched off each time as fan starts up then die back but last night seemed to find game ran better didn't get freezes i was getting on one map in game and moved better. it's a 850watt one
 
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