I don't think it is. I'm looking at the X pro rather than G pro. Equivalent review here:Is this the same PSU?
PSU recommendation
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Hmm, do you know if it was a SHIFT, or the original RMx? I noticed that the SHIFT no longer says "ALL", though it's definitely implied that they're still 100% Japanese. Another common thing that manufacturers do is change the spec depending on region. For example: PSUs sold in China and India are often lower quality than the ones sold in Europe.
I couldn't say.
At a minimum I'd want to see thermal imaging of the PSU under different idle conditions, but I have to admit that having no fan running at nearly 200 watts load does seem... optimistic. Like you say though, I'd assume Seasonic know what they're doing and have ensured that any heat sensitive parts aren't impacted. These PSUs are several years old designs too, so I'd assume if passive mode was a problem there would be LOTS of failed PSUs by now.
I believe that lessens ripple, but they're often removed to make the cables more flexible.
I don't think it is. I'm looking at the X pro rather than G pro. Equivalent review here:
The FSP Hydro PTM X Pro 1000W ATX 3.0 PSU Review: Premium Platinum Power
www.anandtech.com
Ahh, oops, I didn't notice that (like I said, I ignore FSP because they're nearly impossible to buy here
).
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It was an RMx as that's what I wanted due to the other models not having 10 year warranty. Was a USA review IIRC, one of the big names.Hmm, do you know if it was a SHIFT, or the original RMx? I noticed that the SHIFT no longer says "ALL", though it's definitely implied that they're still 100% Japanese. Another common thing that manufacturers do is change the spec depending on region. For example: PSUs sold in China and India are often lower quality than the ones sold in Europe.
I couldn't say.
At a minimum I'd want to see thermal imaging of the PSU under different idle conditions, but I have to admit that having no fan running at nearly 200 watts load does seem... optimistic. Like you say though, I'd assume Seasonic know what they're doing and have ensured that any heat sensitive parts aren't impacted. These PSUs are several years old designs too, so I'd assume if passive mode was a problem there would be LOTS of failed PSUs by now.
I believe that lessens ripple, but they're often removed to make the cables more flexible.
Ahh, oops, I didn't notice that (like I said, I ignore FSP because they're nearly impossible to buy here
Yeah I can't see it not being up to the task seeing as my rig barely uses 200-220w at peak thanks to the purpose built low power consumption gaming intention I've spec'ed it for on purpose, FWIW at the wall with a sub/amp/speakers and my 31.5" 165hz 1440p monitor, gaming at 60-80fps in SP capped on purpose (to again not stress/heat components up/use less electric) my draw is between 260-300w ALL in for everything with a proper plug monitor
Nioce right! Means my lengthy 6-8 hour daily evening stints are done without getting a tan/turning my room into a sauna, nor bankrupting me in running costs
I might enable the fan now, would you, or just leave it? Knowing my luck I'd end up prematurely killing the fan earlier, but which is the lesser of the 2 evils, components getting a bit hotter or fan wearing out quicker, no idea haha!
As for the cables, nope they def still have them as people were moaning about it in the reviews on retailers after buying them about the cables not being flexible/tidy'able as much etc, and less support for aftermarket cables etc...
Who knows. Think I ended up with the better deal with mine though for the spec vs price/warranty... Plus I got my cables in a washbag -which I'll never use and lives in the PSU box lmao pointless, but a nice gesture of effort put in for presentation!
I think I'm going to take a punt on it. Reviews very well and only consistent criticism seems to be lack of availability, comes with a 10 year warranty and seems to have a high number of connectors with cables at decent lengths.Ahh, oops, I didn't notice that (like I said, I ignore FSP because they're nearly impossible to buy here
You've made sure it definitely has the revised connector with the version that is shipping, right? Since I assume that's why you're buying it?
FSP are a pretty old brand, been making PSUs since I remember being into PCs, so I don't think there's much risk on that end of things
I have to admit, I never take much time looking at that, even when I do specs in the buying advice forum, I never consider the case, the PSU and the cable length
If so, that PSU definitely should not have had Chinese caps! I know it is common that manufacturers do a bait and switch after reviews (they do this with SSDs a lot), but that's rarely when they state what the components are supposed to be on their website. Would be interested to know if this was a US retail model and which supplier it was from. I should imagine Corsair would have wanted to respond to the review too, since they're usually pretty active on social media.
Well, I'd take what fan profile their engineers have set over me, I'm just some Internet random.
But, if I were to comment, the main thing I'd be looking at is the exhaust temperature and from what I can gather, it never exceeded 50 degrees.
The lifetime of a 2000 hr @ 105c rated electrolytic capacitor (usually the most heat sensitive part) is 10 years @ 50 degrees and 20 years @ 40 degrees.
In the thermal imaging (without a cooling fan), they're relatively cool, I think, since they're located near the modular board, but there's one or two around components that are 60-70 degrees. The only problem is, this thermal imaging only has one load level, so I don't know what their regular temperature is likely to be.
At a typical idle load of around 50 watt, the waste heat of a gold rated PSU will be pretty low (a few watts) and there should be some passive airflow over the heatsinks in most cases, so it shouldn't trouble the PSU in the long-term.
At a load of 200 watt before the fan turns on, there's a potential for a lot more waste heat inside the PSU, though still spread over a fairly large area, with decent sized heatsinks. This is starting to be a level that could impact the long-term lifetime though, which is probably why the fan comes on.
A fan is usually a lot easier to replace than any other component and from the pictures, it is not soldered, so I think (if I was willing to replace it) I'd rather wear the fan out than the insides of the PSU.
If the PC spends most of the time (the 6-8 hours) idle (e.g. browsing the web), then it wouldn't concern me, but if you're managing to do several hours worth of gaming without the fan coming on, then I'd want to turn it on manually.
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Yeah it's literally only used/turned on for gaming, bar some light browsing sometimes.You've made sure it definitely has the revised connector with the version that is shipping, right? Since I assume that's why you're buying it?
FSP are a pretty old brand, been making PSUs since I remember being into PCs, so I don't think there's much risk on that end of things
I have to admit, I never take much time looking at that, even when I do specs in the buying advice forum, I never consider the case, the PSU and the cable length
If so, that PSU definitely should not have had Chinese caps! I know it is common that manufacturers do a bait and switch after reviews (they do this with SSDs a lot), but that's rarely when they state what the components are supposed to be on their website. Would be interested to know if this was a US retail model and which supplier it was from. I should imagine Corsair would have wanted to respond to the review too, since they're usually pretty active on social media.
Well, I'd take what fan profile their engineers have set over me, I'm just some Internet random.
But, if I were to comment, the main thing I'd be looking at is the exhaust temperature and from what I can gather, it never exceeded 50 degrees.
The lifetime of a 2000 hr @ 105c rated electrolytic capacitor (usually the most heat sensitive part) is 10 years @ 50 degrees and 20 years @ 40 degrees.
In the thermal imaging (without a cooling fan), they're relatively cool, I think, since they're located near the modular board, but there's one or two around components that are 60-70 degrees. The only problem is, this thermal imaging only has one load level, so I don't know what their regular temperature is likely to be.
At a typical idle load of around 50 watt, the waste heat of a gold rated PSU will be pretty low (a few watts) and there should be some passive airflow over the heatsinks in most cases, so it shouldn't trouble the PSU in the long-term.
At a load of 200 watt before the fan turns on, there's a potential for a lot more waste heat inside the PSU, though still spread over a fairly large area, with decent sized heatsinks. This is starting to be a level that could impact the long-term lifetime though, which is probably why the fan comes on.
A fan is usually a lot easier to replace than any other component and from the pictures, it is not soldered, so I think (if I was willing to replace it) I'd rather wear the fan out than the insides of the PSU.
If the PC spends most of the time (the 6-8 hours) idle (e.g. browsing the web), then it wouldn't concern me, but if you're managing to do several hours worth of gaming without the fan coming on, then I'd want to turn it on manually.
I was gonna say surely if it's 80+ gold and made by Seasonic, and will turn the fan on when it wants to, with a 10 year warranty, then it must be able to do it, considering I'm using bugger all power consumption compared to the kind of hardware it's capable/rated to be able to run?
I did think I'll just put my hand behind it next time I'm balls deep into a 3-6 hour gaming session and see if I can feel the fan on?
Yeah I could change the fan but I'd rather send it back if it has warranty tbh, but yeah I think I'll just turn the fan on and see if I can even hear it, just to play it safe? If it is audible over my super quiet system though it's getting turned off again
I would assume that the engineers made sure that all of the components can do 10 years at the expected temperature (fan on/off), yes.
What I'm suggesting is just prudence, I guess, because I personally wouldn't like to run nearly 200 watt with the PSU's fan off for hours every day, but realistically I don't know how much lower the component temperatures are with the fan on, or what difference that will make to the lifetime. If the electrolytic capacitors are the most heat sensitive (which I'd expect they are), protecting them is irrelevant if something else in the PSU blows way before they do. Seasonic are in possession of all this information after all, I am not, so...
Sounds good, you'll be able to feel how hot the exhaust is too.
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Basically you will be held accountable from here on. Whether that be damage to my pc, making it hotter in my room, fan noise, coil wine or paranoia, It's all in your hands now.I would assume that the engineers made sure that all of the components can do 10 years at the expected temperature (fan on/off), yes.
What I'm suggesting is just prudence, I guess, because I personally wouldn't like to run nearly 200 watt with the PSU's fan off for hours every day, but realistically I don't know how much lower the component temperatures are with the fan on, or what difference that will make to the lifetime. If the electrolytic capacitors are the most heat sensitive (which I'd expect they are), protecting them is irrelevant if something else in the PSU blows way before they do. Seasonic are in possession of all this information after all, I am not, so...
Sounds good, you'll be able to feel how hot the exhaust is too.
I wrote it on the internet so it's fact, remember
TLDR I know you're actually a sales rep for Corsairs PSU dept and trying to sabotage my Seasonic that identifies with it's chosen pronoun of 'NZXT'.
I accept bribes...
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Check the detailed spec for the PSU if you can. I just upgraded my PSU to the Seasonic PX1600w PCIe3.0 and it's on another level to the 7 year old EVGA GQ 1000w.
On mine the fan spins up dependant on load Low loads it turns on around 400rpm...and at about 600-800 watts (gaming sesh) it states 700rpm and is whisper silent.
On mine the fan spins up dependant on load Low loads it turns on around 400rpm...and at about 600-800 watts (gaming sesh) it states 700rpm and is whisper silent.
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Yeah my moneys on it has sneakily been on the whole time, I just haven't noticed... As they're one of the O.G. dons for PSU's as we all know
Does yours have a zero rpm/stealth mode button?
@Tetras go go gadget
NZXT | 850W Gold Power Supply | Fully Modular
This PSU delivers 850 watts of clean, stable power which is ideal for gaming PCs with multiple GPUs, or higher power requirements.
nzxt.com
I like that it produces 'clean' power versus dirty/slutty/filthy/cartel/county lines/nuclear power. Gotta love terminology eh!
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Yeah I have the hybrid switch and it's pushed in for off. (Hybrid mode off)Yeah my moneys on it has sneakily been on the whole time, I just haven't noticed... As they're one of the O.G. dons for PSU's as we all know
Does yours have a zero rpm/stealth mode button?
@Tetras go go gadget
NZXT | 850W Gold Power Supply | Fully Modular
This PSU delivers 850 watts of clean, stable power which is ideal for gaming PCs with multiple GPUs, or higher power requirements.
I like that it produces 'clean' power versus dirty slutty filthy/cartel/county lines/nuclear power.
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Hahahaha NO WAY!!! I pushed it in (wheeeyyyyy
) thinking that meant it was ON hahaha! If that's true then you definitely cannot hear it!
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@Shilz I think you've got it wrong buddy, just pushed the switch (so it's fully stuck out i.e. off) and the fan gently blew as I felt it. Did the same with the button pressed in, and nothing. Maybe it differs from model? But would seem odd if same brand/people making it?
The manual doesn't even mention the button - just checked aha useless! Time to kneel behind the case with a phone camera + light and see if it says anything haha fml!
EDIT: kneeling complete, it just says "zero rpm mode" and it's a button so surely if it's pressed in i.e. the button's pushed, that means zero rpm is enabled? I swear I felt airflow with it not pressed in when I tried it just now haha @Tetras has jinxed me with his Illuminati curse!
The manual doesn't even mention the button - just checked aha useless! Time to kneel behind the case with a phone camera + light and see if it says anything haha fml!
EDIT: kneeling complete, it just says "zero rpm mode" and it's a button so surely if it's pressed in i.e. the button's pushed, that means zero rpm is enabled? I swear I felt airflow with it not pressed in when I tried it just now haha @Tetras has jinxed me with his Illuminati curse!
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Have a look at this, your C850 is based on the Focus Plus Seasonic unit and same hybrid switch on my Seasonic. Button pushed means fan on.
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knowledge.seasonic.com
FOCUS PLUS Fan Control Button - Seasonic Knowledge Base
The fan control button can be found on the back of the FOCUS PLUS power supply, next to the power switch. The image here illustrates how to select different fan
knowledge.seasonic.com
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Niiiice, cheers mate, I stand correctedHave a look at this, your C850 is based on the Focus Plus Seasonic unit and same hybrid switch on my Seasonic. Button pushed means fan on.
FOCUS PLUS Fan Control Button - Seasonic Knowledge Base
The fan control button can be found on the back of the FOCUS PLUS power supply, next to the power switch. The image here illustrates how to select different fan
Well it was always pressed in, so that's a good thing then! Weird the NZXT manual never shows you anything 
So turns out it's 'that' quiet I never knew it was on then, mint I'll press it again then!
So those people in reviews moaning about it getting loud are definitely talking horse!
Regardless at least it's safe to say we can blame @Tetras
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