Pulling to the left

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Have taken a photo of the tracking printout and uploaded it, Car is 2012 but listed as 2006 on the printout.... Image within the spoiler tags as it's a big one.

I'm also not entirely sure how relevant the two lines at the bottom are about the steering wheel, but given what people have said... Could this by why i'm having issues?

XJheGTO.jpg.png
 

bJN

bJN

Soldato
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I don't profess to being an expect on correct set-up etc, but from a purely simple view, the car will likely pull left due to the difference in front camber and caster. On a perfectly flat surface those settings would slowly drift left I think?
 
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Soldato
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What sort of car is it? If they've set it up for a 2006 *something* but yours is a 2012 *something*, are those exactly the same car?
 
Soldato
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I don't profess to being an expect on correct set-up etc, but from a purely simple view, the car will likely pull left due to the difference in front camber and caster. On a perfectly flat surface those settings would slowly drift left I think?

That is normal for countering the camber in the road surface. As long as they aren't using specs for right hand drive countries :D
 
Soldato
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We had the same thing happen with my wife's Fabia along with the inside edges eaten to shreds. New tyres all round and it started pulling to the left. Every time it had its alignment checked it was out.

Turned out to be front wishbone bushes were shot, as affectively when she accelerated it would toe out. Issue is now sorted.
 
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Soldato
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Got an identical scenario with my Mk6.5 Fiesta. Steering wheel has to be held ever so slightly to the right to steer straight otherwise it will drift left.

Took it back to the laser alignment place three times, to no avail (they started saying some spiel about it not being possible to adjust the rear wheels hence the problem), it was fine before putting new tyres on though. I've driven with it for over 12 months as it wasn't that big a deal, but I've noticed recently the inside of the front tyres have worn more than the outside by a few mm? The wear is even on both front tyres so don't know if its related.
 
Soldato
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Lolasim

Every tyre place in the world offers a free tracking check

Yep precisely. That's why it's the perfect opportunity to **** something up on someone's car.

You've misunderstood. It's not the fact that a free tracking check was offered, it's the fact that a free tracking was performed because it "needed doing" as well as the factual result of this "free tracking" being fully apparent.

The reality of the situation is the OP's car is now broken more than it was.



The guy below is in touch with reality of the situation. You're free to believe that "free tracking checks" are actually performed because some dodgy tyre fitter somewhere is feeling truly generous. It's probably healthier anyway.

As the OP said never pulled before he had tyres and tracking done. So it is one of those.
 
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Soldato
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Your comprehension skills are atrocious!

-Free tracking check
-(You lol'd because you thought he said they did the alignment free)
-OP gets the tracking done because the result of the free check shows it needs doing
-(You post the drivel above because you think he meant he knew it needed doing before the check)

Why is absolutely everything you post completely WTF? Everyone in this thread completely understands that they messed up the tracking, I was one of the first to suggest this! Nobody believes or suggested that places do free checks out of the goodness of their hearts, of course it's a revenue generator. I've had free checks that have shown it was fine and not been charged for anything but the tyres. It works as a revenue generator because the majority of cars they see will actually need doing, not because they all make stuff up.

You're the only one struggling with the free tracking check idea and the very simple order of events though ;)
 
Caporegime
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My money is on the camber of the road making car slowly drift towards the kerb, when steering wheel is released.
 
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Have taken a photo of the tracking printout and uploaded it, Car is 2012 but listed as 2006 on the printout.... Image within the spoiler tags as it's a big one.

I'm also not entirely sure how relevant the two lines at the bottom are about the steering wheel, but given what people have said... Could this by why i'm having issues?

XJheGTO.jpg.png


Take it back to that garage and tell them you want the following settings:

Front camber: negative -45 minutes per side (-0.75)
Front caster: Maximum positive they can get equal on both sides!
Front toe: +0.05 toe in per side (total 10 minutes across the axle)

Rear camber: -1:15 per side (-1.25)
Rear toe: Is fine.


To be honest the alignment does not look bad, but if one was to perfect it for good road manners I'd be inputting the above as the only thing which stands out on your settings if your right rear has an additional 30 minutes negative camber compared to the left. Also 2 minutes negative rear camber is too much on a road car, that is the kind of rear camber I run on my M3 which is a track car, so certainly won't be helping your case.

Other things to check, 30-35psi equal PSI all round in tyres, ensure you don't have a sticky brake caliper so after a drive touch all the alloys to feel if one is unusually hot.

If after this it is still pulling, then get all the bushes checked on the car as you might have a worn out bush on the car.
 
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Your comprehension skills are atrocious!

-Free tracking check
-(You lol'd because you thought he said they did the alignment free)
-OP gets the tracking done because the result of the free check shows it needs doing
-(You post the drivel above because you think he meant he knew it needed doing before the check)

Why is absolutely everything you post completely WTF? Everyone in this thread completely understands that they messed up the tracking, I was one of the first to suggest this! Nobody believes or suggested that places do free checks out of the goodness of their hearts, of course it's a revenue generator. I've had free checks that have shown it was fine and not been charged for anything but the tyres. It works as a revenue generator because the majority of cars they see will actually need doing, not because they all make stuff up.

You're the only one struggling with the free tracking check idea and the very simple order of events though ;)

Thankyou :D

Take it back to that garage and tell them you want the following settings:

Front camber: negative -45 minutes per side (-0.75)
Front caster: Maximum positive they can get equal on both sides!
Front toe: +0.05 toe in per side (total 10 minutes across the axle)

Rear camber: -1:15 per side (-1.25)
Rear toe: Is fine.


To be honest the alignment does not look bad, but if one was to perfect it for good road manners I'd be inputting the above as the only thing which stands out on your settings if your right rear has an additional 30 minutes negative camber compared to the left. Also 2 minutes negative rear camber is too much on a road car, that is the kind of rear camber I run on my M3 which is a track car, so certainly won't be helping your case.

Other things to check, 30-35psi equal PSI all round in tyres, ensure you don't have a sticky brake caliper so after a drive touch all the alloys to feel if one is unusually hot.

If after this it is still pulling, then get all the bushes checked on the car as you might have a worn out bush on the car.

Thanks Gibbo, will tell them that and see what they say / see if they can do it!
 
Soldato
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Steering wheel being out of whack would make no difference, he said he takes his hands off the wheel and it pulls, if the steering wheel was out then it'd go straight but the steering wheel would appear off center.
 
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I wish there was an easy way to DIY a wheel alignment. The equipment isn't cheap :(

So many garages seem to get it wrong.


With a Hunter machine which is what it looks like the alignment was done with there is no excuse unless adjuster were seized up preventing getting equal measurements on each side at which point they should inform the customer of potential issue and what cost is required to remedy.

Also being a Hunter it will have your factory alignment spec on file so you could just request they load it from the database and then set your car to factory specification which is most ideal for a car driven in a normal manner on the road. :)
 
Soldato
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Right, it clearly states on the bottom of the sheet that the wheel was never levelled. It's important that the wheel is level and the rack is centred when setting toe. If you don't then you are better off not even bothering.

It's quite possible for tyres to cause tracking problems too. On more than one occasion I've had the car not track straight after fitting cheap tyres on, despite the alignment being bang on.
 
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Well Gibbo i presented them with your figures and the only adjustments an S-MAX is capable of , with the measurements given, is the Toe.. Which they did.

Still pulls to the left but will drive straight for 2-3 seconds max, before it drifts sharply.

Starting to think more and more of it being a suspension issue, that's been highlighted by the tracking. I will be taking it to the Garage near my parents to see what they think before i go any further. They can do MOT's as well so might be able to see an issue if there is one. Failing that , will get the tracking done somewhere else, i find it odd that they can't match your numbers.
 
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