Purchased a small French lightweight hot hatch - Renault Clio 172 Cup & NOW 182 Trophy

Gibbo said:
Good to know then. Have you ran DS2500 on the Clio or just the DS.11’s? I know DS is a track pad and can be noisy.

Just want the brakes to be very confident, good modulation and powerful. As they are now they are just OK but for all I know it’s got cheapo pads and cheapo disc and is probably running 15yr brake fluid.

Front pad choice needs to be a quietish pad, not too much dust and the best stopping and modulation I can get. So guess it’s a choice between DS2500 and EBC yellow.

For rear I’ll do as you say, stock rear disc/bearings with factory Renault pads too.
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I've not personally run them but have been in my mate's Clio 200 a lot which has had DS2500 pads for a few years now. They have been no noisier than standard road pads.

As a above though with the DS2500, you have to metal file the ends slightly to remove the paint and remove the standard anti-rattle shims that are normally found in the caliper carrier.
 
Not sure if anyone has been inspired by the thread but an orange 53 plate 172 with 94k mileage and belt changes done is being advertised for £925 on Facebook in Lowestoft.
 
Hawkesbury said:
Not sure if anyone has been inspired by the thread but an orange 53 plate 172 with 94k mileage and belt changes done is being advertised for £925 on Facebook in Lowestoft.
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They are truly epic buys, I only wanted a 172 cup but I would have jumped on a 182 in liquid yellow if one had come available and not insane money, but generally they go for crazy money, its best colour and so few were made. There was only one for sale at time, it was £4000 with over 100k miles, which was not for me, but I believe even that sold.

But if your not bothered about a limited colour, they are great buys, there are some flame red or flame orange 182's which is a reasonably rare colour and from time to time you see one appear at a fair price, certainly something to consider.

Belts/pulleys/service is certainly worth paying extra for, because if your doing it properly and including water pump, rocker cover reseal and dephaser, its nearly a grand, so any car with it done recently is worth an additional £500 easily. Just watch out for those who only change the belt on high milers and did not do the dephaser, idler pulley and water pump, otherwise your in for the full bill again, some cheap out and do as little as possible. I did the whole lot, now my car is good for five years minimum. :)
 
I've always preferred to by these cheaper needing the belts doing, and paying for it to be done by a specialist that i trust. Luckily, one of the best is local to me in Nottingham though. So many have had belts done on the cheap nowadays and had issues later down the line because of it.

Belts and dephaser is about £600 from memory, but last 5 years. Its not stupid money if you plan on keeping the car for a while. Plus using a proper specialist, they'll normally find issues while working on the car. I've always been advised against doing the water pump unless it's leaking or isn't moving as it should when checked. It's not a common issue on these, and i believe it's driven on the Aux belt, so not as big a deal is it does fail. Never had an issue with a leaky cam cover either. had 4 now and never changed the seals.

I would also recommend getting the gearbox oil changed on a new purchase unless proof is there though, as these do leak and can run low and fail.

182 orange is inferno Orange, similar numbers to Racing blue 182's. The Flame Red only came in 172's both ph1 and ph2 though.

A lot of the time with these, people advertise the belts has being done, but when you dig into the details, what they basically mean is they have a receipt from 4+ years ago, or there mate did it who is a mechanic. Either way i'd factor a belt change to be safe in these circumstances unless prove of a decent specialist has done the job. It's worth noting that the Aux belt needs doing every 3 years too, which gets forgotten a lot of the time and when these go 9 times out of 10 they take the timing belt with them.

In regards to Brake pads, i ran standard Brembo Pads in the front, with braided hoses and high temp fluid at Donington Park on a Track day in November, granted conditions were cooler than this summer. But i managed up to 10 laps at one point before i felt brake fade. I'd been taking it steady throughout the day only doing 3-4 fast laps followed by a cooling lap to preserve them. I'd say unless you're doing lots of track time in it, just run standard pads on the front too, with better hoses and fluid. Could always run a proper track pad for track days and switch back to road pads for road use if you felt it was required.
 
Darryl_1983 said:
I've always preferred to by these cheaper needing the belts doing, and paying for it to be done by a specialist that i trust. Luckily, one of the best is local to me in Nottingham though. So many have had belts done on the cheap nowadays and had issues later down the line because of it.

Belts and dephaser is about £600 from memory, but last 5 years. Its not stupid money if you plan on keeping the car for a while. Plus using a proper specialist, they'll normally find issues while working on the car. I've always been advised against doing the water pump unless it's leaking or isn't moving as it should when checked. It's not a common issue on these, and i believe it's driven on the Aux belt, so not as big a deal is it does fail. Never had an issue with a leaky cam cover either. had 4 now and never changed the seals.

I would also recommend getting the gearbox oil changed on a new purchase unless proof is there though, as these do leak and can run low and fail.

182 orange is inferno Orange, similar numbers to Racing blue 182's. The Flame Red only came in 172's both ph1 and ph2 though.

A lot of the time with these, people advertise the belts has being done, but when you dig into the details, what they basically mean is they have a receipt from 4+ years ago, or there mate did it who is a mechanic. Either way i'd factor a belt change to be safe in these circumstances unless prove of a decent specialist has done the job. It's worth noting that the Aux belt needs doing every 3 years too, which gets forgotten a lot of the time and when these go 9 times out of 10 they take the timing belt with them.

In regards to Brake pads, i ran standard Brembo Pads in the front, with braided hoses and high temp fluid at Donington Park on a Track day in November, granted conditions were cooler than this summer. But i managed up to 10 laps at one point before i felt brake fade. I'd been taking it steady throughout the day only doing 3-4 fast laps followed by a cooling lap to preserve them. I'd say unless you're doing lots of track time in it, just run standard pads on the front too, with better hoses and fluid. Could always run a proper track pad for track days and switch back to road pads for road use if you felt it was required.
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Agreed, its why in a good way mine not having anything done was not a bad thing, as I got a 1 owner, 50k miles car cheap and then had all the work done to a very high standard by a well regarded specialist. Of course I had the lot done, belts, dephaser, idler pulley, water pump, rocker cover gasket, major service (NGK plugs), coolant change, oil change, gearbox oil change. The whole lot, along with a full suspension refresh (still some to do) and a full brake refresh incoming.
 
Every time I check in on this thread it gets me looking at various Clios on eBay that could be potential replacements for my focus that might be a little lighter on fuel....

Then I remember the ridiculously high seating position when I drove one ~10 years ago :(

Edit: Forgot to say mind, awesome seeing an unloved car getting the attention it deserves :)
 
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I suspect that rattle from top-end is the dephaser pulley.
He says belts changed, but no proof, that suggest to me they were changed but on the cheap, so only belt done. Leaving original dephaser.

My cup was quiet when cold, once it was warm it rattled like crazy from the top-end at idle, even with some revs, the car in short sounded like a diesel but twice as loud, was very bad, sounded properly ruined.
New dephaser, now its super quiet and silky smooth.

So in short it could just need that, of course that means changing belt again etc. So budget £500-£800 depending how far your gonna go, water pump, rocker cover reseal etc.
 
God damn, even though I have my mind set on a mk2 3MPS I keep reading the updates on this thread and find myself browsing 172/182 cliosports nearby. I had a 172 a few years ago and it was such fun to drive, not much refinement but it's not designed for that of course :D

This has appeared for sale close to me in the last week or so, well looked after and really liking that colour but feels like it's commanding a fairly high price

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201808169568453?
 
SixTwoSix said:
God damn, even though I have my mind set on a mk2 3MPS I keep reading the updates on this thread and find myself browsing 172/182 cliosports nearby. I had a 172 a few years ago and it was such fun to drive, not much refinement but it's not designed for that of course :D

This has appeared for sale close to me in the last week or so, well looked after and really liking that colour but feels like it's commanding a fairly high price

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201808169568453?
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Very nice, inferno orange, rare colour. Though its a fab car, its over priced because he is betting on the low miles, rare colour and condition to bring him more. But my criteria for a 182 was that it was a genuine cup and not a FF cup, that is a proper cup model which certainly helps value as they were 20-30kg lighter than FF cups and much lower numbers.
 
Gibbo said:
Very nice, inferno orange, rare colour. Though its a fab car, its over priced because he is betting on the low miles, rare colour and condition to bring him more. But my criteria for a 182 was that it was a genuine cup and not a FF cup, that is a proper cup model which certainly helps value as they were 20-30kg lighter than FF cups and much lower numbers.
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I'm almost at the point of picking up the phone to go take a look. What do you reckon is a fair price on that then?
 
Anyone here got experience of Toyo R1R and AD08R, I was gonna get AD08R, but I keep hearing great things about the R1R, saying its essentially an 888 but designed for wet use with the tread blocks and deeper 6.5mm, people saying dry grip is more or less on a par with 888 particular once down to around 5mm but that they work from cold and are exceptional in the wet.
 
SixTwoSix said:
I'm almost at the point of picking up the phone to go take a look. What do you reckon is a fair price on that then?
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Whatever your willing to pay, condition looks exceptional and for me only downsides is lack of original seats and 5+ owners. Its a £3000 - £3500 car all day long based on condition and miles, I'd say it needs no money spending on it either based on service, belts, pulleys and new tyres been fitted. I am sure it will sell at £4000, maybe even £4500, it is just down to what you personally feel it is worth and that is how it is with cars. Someone who wants an inferno genuine cup with low miles and is hunting for one and see that will no doubt just pay the price.
 
Gibbo said:
Whatever your willing to pay, condition looks exceptional and for me only downsides is lack of original seats and 5+ owners. Its a £3000 - £3500 car all day long based on condition and miles, I'd say it needs no money spending on it either based on service, belts, pulleys and new tyres been fitted. I am sure it will sell at £4000, maybe even £4500, it is just down to what you personally feel it is worth and that is how it is with cars. Someone who wants an inferno genuine cup with low miles and is hunting for one and see that will no doubt just pay the price.
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I did find the fact that it wasn't original seats a little off putting but as for value i'm totally thrown with 172/182's as prices are all over the place right now :)

I should carry on looking for 3MPS's :D
 
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