Quick pushbike question

Not at that price range they wont. Most will be under geared for road use.
You're right and I am out of date. When I last looked, most people who were looking for a bike to be used on the road were sold a bike designed to be used on the road. I'd wrongly assumed that was still true.
 
If your bike has knobbly, fat tyres, and all you're doing is 99% road journeys - you seriously need to do what I did last autumn: get some Continental Contacts!

You won't believe the difference you'll get - much lass drag for a start, and I found I could take corners sharper with more confidence.

I too used my bike for work, ~3.2 mile journey each direction (total of ~6.5 miles/day). I was very grateful for the Continental Contacts, because I knew the journey would be that much harder on ordinary tyres. Be warned though, don't expect to play about in damp mud or grass - that's what knobbly tyres are for. ;)
 
Nah, any slick/semi slick maxis tyres would do you best. People often dismiss how much difference pumping your tyres up properly makes too.

The problem with a lot of mountainbikes is that the gear ratio is massive, you'll have some super easy gears you will never ever use, which are just sat around gaining weight. Id have actually suggest v-brakes for a comuters bike too tbh, reduces its appeal to thieves and makes little difference on road.

have no bike at the moment. Used to have A kona lava Dome heavily modded for Xc and some down hilling. Until it got stolen and then I never replaced it (no insurance)
You got an XC bike, then used it for DH ??? Sounds nuts imo
 
I have an GT Avalanche 1.0 Disc. Great XC bike but as it has become my commuter bike I have found out how hard it is to get speed up hills and how easy I run out of gears.

Even with the forks locked out, slick tyres and a massive 65PSI of air in them it is still far too much work for so little speed.

Going to get a roadie, but the only thing that worries me is the breaks. Comming home (and going to) work I often have to stop in a hurry. Hydraulic disks are very good for this. Not sure about U Breaks though...
 
Some tourers have hydraulic brakes, but pretty expensive. There's the Kona Dr Dew, but it's more of a faster commuter with flats, rather a road bike geometry with drops. The ride position is incredibly upright, and it feels weird. I sat on a 56cm frame, with my knees slightly bent with the crank at 12 o clock my arms were almost touching my knees, when I turn the bars they touch my knees. I'm only 5'10"

http://www.konaworld.com/08_drdew_w.htm

I think Cannondale Bad Boy was hrydraulic brakes. I don't recall seeing any true road bikes with hyrdraulic brakes, I guess front is all you want anyway. The problem with using powerful brakes on a slim tyre isn't a problem for the brakes, but the amount of rubber in contact with the road. Most likely skid.
 
isnt the most important thing that he likes the feel of his new bike ? and even if is lil harder than a racing bike just means getting better work out from riding to and from work
 
why would you want hydrolic brakes on what is essentially a road bike. It's utterly pointless. You won't stop any quicker.

Strictly speaking I don't. I just want breaks that can stop me on a six pence if need be as when on the road I seem to be surrounded by idiot pedestrians and motorists. ;)

I am sure modern U breaks on Road Bikes are very good, especially if you can afford Ultegra or Record. :D
 
isnt the most important thing that he likes the feel of his new bike ? and even if is lil harder than a racing bike just means getting better work out from riding to and from work

But it will limit him. Soon he will hit a wall and it won't be him holding him back it will be his bike. It's like off roading in a Mini. Sure you can do it but not very well.
 
isnt the most important thing that he likes the feel of his new bike ? and even if is lil harder than a racing bike just means getting better work out from riding to and from work

Riding on a MTB is like driving in your car with the hand brake slightly depressed. Yes you'll still get there, but the engine is working harder.

Riding a tourer, flat bar racer or road bike will mean he'll go faster, with less effort, keeping speed up (less road friction and wind resistanec) and enjoy the ride better. I hated riding to work on my MTB - it took twice as long, I arrived knackered. On the roadie I actually enjoyed it, and overtook a couple of cars on the dual carriageway:D

Until your ride a roadie you think a MTB is nippy, it isn't. It's a canal barge. Regardless whether you're unfit or fit.
 
Strictly speaking I don't. I just want breaks that can stop me on a six pence if need be as when on the road I seem to be surrounded by idiot pedestrians and motorists. ;)

I am sure modern U breaks on Road Bikes are very good, especially if you can afford Ultegra or Record. :D

The limiting factor is the tyres. As long as the breaks lock the wheel up. It doesn't matter what brakes you have you wont stop quicker. All you get is more feel and heat absorbing. This is not needed on a road bike.
 
Riding on a MTB is like driving in your car with the hand brake slightly depressed. Yes you'll still get there, but the engine is working harder.

Riding a tourer, flat bar racer or road bike will mean he'll go faster, with less effort, keeping speed up (less road friction and wind resistanec) and enjoy the ride better. I hated riding to work on my MTB - it took twice as long, I arrived knackered. On the roadie I actually enjoyed it, and overtook a couple of cars on the dual carriageway:D

Until your ride a roadie you think a MTB is nippy, it isn't. It's a canal barge. Regardless whether you're unfit or fit.

On my ride to work (currently done on a MTB :( ) I see about four or five riders on MTB's and one on a road bike (old steel framed job)

Now I have been riding to my new job on my MTB for a month and it is making me lose the will to live. It's just too slow, heavy and hasn't got enough gears.

Why on Earth do people get the wrong tool for the job?
 
Yeah if I were to press my brake levers hard, at a high speed I'm pretty sure I'll skid, rather than slow down without skidding within .02 of a second.

Calipers on a road bike are more than good enough. Discs have the advantage of no rim wear, but by the time you wear out the rims you're looking at a new wheel-rebuild anyway. A rim can last 10 years easy.
 
The limiting factor is the tyres. As long as the breaks lock the wheel up. It doesn't matter what brakes you have you wont stop quicker. All you get is more feel and heat absorbing. This is not needed on a road bike.

Road bikes have very thin tyres. How easy is it to lock the wheels? I am serious as over the last few weeks my ride to work has been like playing Russian Roulette.

For example:

A guy steps out into the road at rush hour without looking. I stopped just short of hitting him.

A lorry turns left without checking for cyclists and nearly knobbles me. :(

A car driver sees me in her mirrors coming down the inside in a queue of traffic. She moves over into the gutter blocking my path at the last moment.

A car driver stops at a junction. Sees me. Then pulls out just before I get to them. I had my front lights on and I wear a high vis jacket!!!

I need to be able to stop well. Riding defensively just isn't enough!

Got a lift into work today! :D
 
Bikes are light, so even though they have small tyres they will still stop fast, they will probably stop faster than a mtb with knobbly tyres.
 
I max out at 22mph on the flat on my MTB. It sucks as it is too slow and is a hell of a lot of effort!

what do you expect. get the right tool for the job. Get a road bike or if you want something a lot stronger and last longer get a hybrid. Or modify your bike. Gears, wheels, tyres, stem and handlebar.
 
Back
Top Bottom