Rate my temps?

Mal X said:
Sorry i'm not sure, it'll be the standard voltage, unfortunately i'm using a laptop today so i cant check
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If you dont know, i assume your just letting the bios auto volt it to 4.4ghz?

You not tried setting volts yourself and getting it as low as you can for 4.4ghz?
I have mine at 4.5ghz on 1.38v. Could probably go higher, but theres not much point going up really.
 
shawsy109 said:
If you dont know, i assume your just letting the bios auto volt it to 4.4ghz?

You not tried setting volts yourself and getting it as low as you can for 4.4ghz?
I have mine at 4.5ghz on 1.38v. Could probably go higher, but theres not much point going up really.
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yes, Asrock gives me 4.4 ghz via Bios, that's why i brought it, because it's nice and simple, but to go any higher means i have to adjust everything manually and i've never found a single thread that shows me how to do it easily.... because you have to adjust settings on quite a few pages

all i know is to get to 4.6/4.8 i have to reduce the voltage to the CPU plus increase some of the timings, but to do it without being totally sure screws up Win 7 and you loose files etc, when i tried it my pc went into Safe mode/ blue screen etc and this scared me off ever trying again :D :eek::eek:

i put loads of threads up here about how to get to 4.8 etc, but nobody helped so there you go
 
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Overclocking in bios is so simple. No idea how you end up losing files and entering safe mode as a result of a failed overclock. Hey ho, each to there own i guess.
 
shawsy109 said:
Overclocking in bios is so simple. No idea how you end up losing files and entering safe mode as a result of a failed overclock. Hey ho, each to there own i guess.
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it's not so simple as you say, that's the problem !

if Asrock wont give you 4.6 ghz you have to do it manually, mine wont go above 4.4 in Auto bios, some do but some dont, it's just the luck of the draw !

what happens is, if i adjust it for 4.6, the pc crashes after i exit Bios, this has lost files before plus gone into safe mode/ blue screen etc, but it doesn't get as bad as this every time, just enough to put you off trying.

when you ask for help on a forum, they only give you a brief reply, but for a novice like me it's not good enough, you need to be told exactly what to do.

they say ``just adjust this adjust that `` but this just leaves me thinking `` WTF does he mean``:eek::eek::eek:
 
I know what you mean Mal X. I can machine, build and fine tune a racing engine; I can build a fancy desk or cabinet out of exotic wood, but overclocking is dabbling with magic.
 
I should point out that this was with a very high ambient room temperature as it has been very hot recently. I will post temps from a cooler day somewhen.
 
doyll said:
I know what you mean Mal X. I can machine, build and fine tune a racing engine; I can build a fancy desk or cabinet out of exotic wood, but overclocking is dabbling with magic.
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i'm the same, i can build anything and i do, plus i'm an artist as well, but i cant understand the software to save my life...

i can build a rig for anyone here that'll run freezing cold and quite easily too, as said you dont need Phanteks, but i dont have what it takes to do the software, i cant even sort out Steam without screwing it up :D

the temps you see from me i can actually get even cooler, because i used to have an additional Exit fan under the 7970 right on the pci slots, it was only 80mm, plus the other fans were running much faster, but since i decided not to overclock the card any more above Catalyst AMD, i actually reduced the pc's cooling ability to kill most of the noise.

it used to be 50 degrees max on 4.4/ PRIME, rather than 56.

also, the temps dont rise much if i remove the cooler exit fan.... i.e run it with the standard single fan, it goes up about 1 degree, but it looks odd with only one fan, so i put it back on. :cool:

the unlapped cooler does not touch the CPU all over, it has depressions/ high spots etc, even if it's machined. and the CPU is deffo not ``true flat`` either, it took me ages to get the coating off and down to bare copper, it came off one side first and then the other, then the other, until it was dead flat.

not doing this this will definitely cause the temps to be much higher, because i can lift up the modo with the cooler just placed on it ( but not bolted down) the suction is so great that it just lifts the whole lot up.

any average cooler can be made to work really great, but it's only a fool like me that risks voiding the warranty.... so please take care!

because you cant really lap the cooler only... it's a waste of time, you have to lap both to marry them together as true flat!

in addition, my CPU got quite messy on the other side, but this cleans off easily with ``windowlene vinegar glass cleaner``, in fact, the other side of my CPU had to be cleaned quite often ! :eek: and this really scared me !!!

as said, i'm good working with my hands, but i dont recommend a novice trying any of this..... just like i'm no good at OCing !
 
My CPU "appears" flat with a straightedge but heatsink is not even close. I think truing it would help quite a bit but as things are cool enough I probably won't bother. It's so big compared to heatsink surface I wouldn't want to even try working it on a flat surface. Would prefer mounting it upside down with some 'outriggers' to keep flat plate from rocking. Used to bevel glass. Wish i had access to those wheels. Wouldn't take but a few minutes to do it. Or a vertical mill ;)
 
doyll said:
My CPU "appears" flat with a straightedge but heatsink is not even close. I think truing it would help quite a bit but as things are cool enough I probably won't bother. It's so big compared to heatsink surface I wouldn't want to even try working it on a flat surface. Would prefer mounting it upside down with some 'outriggers' to keep flat plate from rocking. Used to bevel glass. Wish i had access to those wheels. Wouldn't take but a few minutes to do it. Or a vertical mill ;)
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if it's a big awkward cooler it's very hard to keep it level, it'll rock back and forth and tear the sand paper, as you can imagine; you really need to get your fingers under the cooler and hold it via the heatsink base.

my cpu looked dead flat too, until i started lapping it, the coating came off one side only, this has happened with older CPUs as well... i.e AMD.

i only lapped because i'm a Geek :D.... but if your pc is nice and cool already i would not bother.

i dont think the CPU runs hot when gaming anyway, i havent noticed this, i think the card does most of the work..... but i'm not sure, because the only time i've noticed the fans speeding up and sensed that the pc is under stress and strain, is via Prime 95.... the rest of time i've never heard the fans speeding up once and deffo not whilst playing Deus EX.

My last pc yes, but not this one, it handles gaming easily, it feels like it's on idle...

people say my card is noisy, no it's totally silent, it's only noisy if you OC it too far, then you start hearing Coil Whine etc, i should know because i blew my last card and got an RMA, took 6 weeks !

blowing my last card is maybe the silliest thing i've ever done in my life, i cant believe i was such an idiot
 
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My cooler is 134 x 140 x 160mm (LxWxH) and weights 970g with no fans.

With a base size of 45 x 42mm. :eek:

I'm good with my hands but my brain says it's impossible to move a 45x42mm base under a block 134x140x115mm 52mm above it weighing 900g. :eek:

Every time you start to more or stop that bulk will put more pressure on one side or the other.
 
i did Xigmateks Thor's hammer a year ago and noticed blood in the wet and dry, only to suddenly realise that the sharp fins had cut my fingers :eek:

that's a big cooler too, but mine and Megahalems are easy to lap, because they're much thinner.

a big cooler like yours needs to be moved slowly and slowed right down before you change direction or its ``TIMBER `` plus it rips the paper as it leans over lol

Megahalems is my fav and i almost brought megahalems black the other day, but it means removing the mobo yet again to fit, so i thought ``oh no not again``, so i removed the Aegir and lapped it again along with the CPU. :D

http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg341/scaled.php?server=341&filename=pcweb.jpg&res=landing

cooler isn't that colour it's a darker grey etch primer, takes time to get used to, but it looks ok now
 
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Nice!
Really Nice!

Ever think of a duct from back of cooler to exhaust?
Hanging file folders, ruler, razor knife, scissors, glue stick and tape. Make a tube the size of back vent and slide it in against the cooler exhaust fans. Whatever the angle is at fan mark and trim tube to match. Cut a square 40-50mm bigger then fan shroud with fan shroud drawn on it the 20-25mm from edges and a circle the size of tube duct centered in it with another circle 20mm inside of that. Cut out the inner circle and cut slits to outer circle every 20mm. Fold these tabs to glue inside of tube duct. Fold the outside to fit over fan. Cut the corners of outside on one side so folded tab will can be glued to other side when it is folded making a box like corner. Cut the tube duct so it sticks out the back about 5mm and assemble it to square part. Slide it into back duct from inside, then slide it back over fan and job done.

Could even do similar from front case fan to cooler for a complete cooler tunnel. ;)
 
yes i've thought of a fan shroud, but at the end of the day it does look a bit silly :cool:

i just made sure that the upper fan was firing at close range directly at the cooler, with no wiring in the way, and from there it goes directly out the Exit fan, but it doesn't go out nearly as fast if you remove the 2nd fan from the cooler. thus the air coming out of the rear exit fan is quite cold, because it doesn't hang around inside warming up....plus exits only a split second after coming in the front, the air shoots straight through like a hurricane !

this sounds obvious to all, but it's quite hard to fine tune, because if i move the fan back and thus closer to the front grill by 2'' it doesn't work as well, it has to be a close range assult on the cooler...:D

my pc also has only one Hybrid Sata, i have no internal DVD drive either, so the front of the case has loads of room to move the fans around......

because if you want to build a cold pc, your main enemy is the drive bay trays/ cages etc, they really do screw up the airflow, plus rattle like crazy when the intake fan is in front of them.

no roof fan.... no side panel fan, it's in the front and out the back only.

my pc is way too over engineered for only 4.4.... oh well never mind, because it is quite fun
 
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If the air coming out of your cooler isn't warming up your cooler isn't doing it's job or CPU isn't hot. After all it's supposed t absorb heat from CPU and release it into air going though it's fins. :D

I have a indoor/outdoor thermometer I use. Cooler exhaust air on mine is 6c warmer then intake at idle.

I like your system. Works very well and looks great.

Just for the sake of discussion. Your red test is not taking into account the pull of case exhaust fan if there was a duct from cooler to exhaust... and I didn't suggest removing the cooler exhaust fan but attaching duct to it. Doing this would also make sure none of the cooler exhaust is sucked into PSU. And you would bet same airflow through cooler with 3 fans instead of 4... possibly 2 with front duct if there is minimal restriction at front intake
 
yea the CPU isn't getting hot....as said, gaming isn't nearly enough to stress the rig, it only gets stressed out if i turn on Prime/Kombustor....and even then, never above 56 degrees

Conclusion :- there is a case for reducing the cooling even more, but the only time i ever notice the PC making a noise, is when i dont game and watch the TV instead..... you dont notice a thing whilst gaming.

my old rig sounded like a tin can full of marbles :D this one is much quieter, it's more like the deep hum of an electrical generator.

the fans because they're roughly lined up and very close, seem to pull the air in a channel through the pc, there is little turbulance inside, it just goes in and out in a staight line, but it also goes over the Ram Sticks.

but there must be turbulance COMING FROM THE CARD because its twin fans are forcing the air out at the sides of the cooler shroud..... but maybe not too much, simply because its fans are running slow as well, due to me backing off the OC to stock volts only via AMD Catylist, whatever the case; i notice no problems here.

next rig needs a Full Tower, mine is too small, it also needs a plain door to cover the front grill, this will stop the noise reaching me... this rig will be gutted, all internal panels/ cages/ trays etc.... removed ! start from scratch with an empty box and the MOBO in place, from here work out where to put your fans, where to hide the wiring etc.
 
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At least we are no longer limited to down flow CPU coolers. Now if they would just make GPUs that push ALL air out the back. Use 3 or even 4 slots to remove the heat.

In the overall heat picture there isn't much heat buildup anywhere but CPU & GPU. I don't think case temp would ever rise more then 3c if they were both exhausting all their heat outside of case... and be able to do that with intake fans of same cfm as CPU & GPU fans.
 
i expect the GPU doesn't get hot until it's seriously stressed, which it probably wont for another two years yet, until then it'll handle any game easily, especially when i'm only on 1080p.

it's a new GPU after i blew the last one, so i havent OC it too far or stress tested it too much, so i dont know how hot it gets, but last time i looked at Kombustor i noticed nothing odd.... 50...60...70 who knows !

the lower front panel intake fan for the GPU is a 90 cfm Xig, so it's very cold and draughty under the card.

i prefer the 90 cfm, because it moves much more air at lower RPM, thus allowing you to slow it down
 
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