Rear Panel Audio out jacks not working

Mach234 (or similar).

Mach234 (or similar).

Mach234 (or similar).

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Joined
6 Apr 2009
Posts
64
Location
Exeter, Uk
Hi wondering if anyone could help,

I've just put a new build together (here) and everything is working fine except i'm getting no audio out from the rear panel audio jacks and no audio devices are showing in Windows11>Settings>Sound or the device manager (except my monitor which doesn't have a speaker). I've contacted Asus Support (see below) who seem to think I have a faulty motherboard and may need to return it.

Was just wondering if there's anything you guys could think of to try before looking to replace the motherboard?

Many thanks,
Mach234

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Windows 11 Home version 24H2 x64 HB5044384
Asus Tuf Gaming B650 Plus Wifi
MSI GeForce RTX 3060 Ventus 2X OC 12GB GDDR6 GeForce Game Ready Driver v566.03
AMD Ryzen 9 9900x
Corsair Vengeance EXPO 64GB DDR5 PC5-44800C40 5600MHz
Speakers: Logitech z906 5.1 surround (connected via Asus motherboard rear panel line out/rear/sub jacks)
--------------------------------------------
Hi,
Having problems with a desktop I have put together. It's up and running and everything is working well, windows 11 installed and up to date, all hardware driver updaters installed and run to install the latest drivers (Armoury Crate, AI Suite, NVidia GeForce Experience), all system diagnostics come back looking good: cpu, memory, storage, display, networks etc.

The only issue is there is no audio coming out of the rear panel audio jacks:
I have checked Windows11>Settings>System>Sound and it picks up my monitor but lists nothing else

I noticed in Armoury Crate>Tools>Drivers there was no entry for Audio Drivers, is this an oversight?

Since encountering the problem I have also tried:
* Installed Armoury Two-Way Noise Cancellation utility.
* Logged into my Asus account>Selected my registered motherboard product>Drivers & Tools>Audio>Downloaded and installed the Realtek Audio Driver v6.0.9700.1
* DTS Audio Processing when opened gives the message "DTS Audio Processing settings are unavailable as audio service connection lost".
* Realtek Audio Console opens but hangs on the spinner.
* I have checked Windows Component Services>Services>Windows Audio, which is running.
* Windows 11 Device Manager>Sound, Video, Game Controllers>AMD High Definition Audio Device (Advanced Micro Devices 10.0.1.38) is running properly (as is NVidia HD & Virtual Audio)
* Windows 11 Device Manager>Audio Inputs & Outputs only lists my monitor

If you could please let me know what you think might be wrong, the next thing to try, or let me know how to get any log files you think would be useful in getting audio to the rear output jacks, it would be really appreciated.

Many thanks,

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Thank you for contacting the ASUS UK Support Team.
It would be my pleasure to assist you in any way possible.

The jack ports are simplistic interface, mainly 'plug-and-play' orientate, thus there are no advanced troubleshooting steps or log files that can be extracted.

To confirm that there are no driver related faults regarding this, the easiest way would be to use the front panel (if your case has jack ports) or an USB audio device.

According to the error symptoms you have described, we unfortunately have to assume that you are dealing with a hardware error. Although we manufacture our products to the highest possible standards and aim for them to function well beyond normal life expectancy, at the end of the day they are highly complex technical products that unfortunately can on occasion encounter a hardware malfunction.
We are sorry that this appears to be the case with you. Since we do not offer direct service processing, we would recommend that you report your device to your dealer. They will then take over the further processing for you.
I understand this is inconvenient, as part of the sale process the reseller/retailer accepted that they would control all returns/replacement on behalf of ASUS for the duration of the warranty.

I do hope this has been some help to you.

=======================================
 
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I would perhaps try resetting the CMOS and check if any audio devices are listed within the BIOS also.

Surprised Asus didn’t want that doing to rule out hardware or software related.
 
Personally, I would uninstall armoury crate and kill it in the BIOS and then uninstall all drivers and audio utilities.

What BIOS version are you running? Does it have full compatibility with 9000 series CPUs?

I assume you have checked that everything is enabled properly in the BIOS?

Mach234 (or similar). said:
Was just wondering if there's anything you guys could think of to try before looking to replace the motherboard?
Click to expand...
Using a USB audio device as Asus have suggested would help confirm that the board is at fault and not a software configuration or driver issue.
 
Hey guys thanks for all the replies, really helpful.

Did everything people suggested, uninstalled armoury crate, updated to all latest drivers from the mobo support page, reset cmos, updated the bios to the latest version (fully 9900x certified), ensured all audio enabled in bios, disabled nvidia audio, still no joy. No audio out from rear or front panel jacks, but I did get audio out from usb headphones.

So guess a new motherboard it is..

So guess my next question is what's the general consensus on lifting a cpu with bonded heatsink out of one motherboard and dropping it into a new one? As long as you're careful should it be alright?
 
Mach234 (or similar). said:
I can reach and release the levers okay but might have to bend them outward sightly to lift round the cooler pipes
Was thinking more about cracking the bonding cement?
Click to expand...
Bonding cement? What the heck kind of cooler did you use? :o I think you'd need to research some specific advice for that, or ask the manufacturer, 'cos I've never heard of anything like it.
 
Mach234 (or similar). said:
lol just arctic silver.. :)

www.overclockers.co.uk

Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound (3.5g)

Order Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound (3.5g) now online and benefit from fast delivery.
www.overclockers.co.uk www.overclockers.co.uk

sorry thermal compound
Click to expand...
Ohhh, you can easily remove a cooler with thermal paste. There's no need to do any complicated gymnastic to remove the cooler.

The usual advice is to ensure you run the CPU hot before you power down, so that it is warm and the 'seal' is looser. I'm sure if you did a read around you can find specific advice for AM5 too, though I'm not aware of AM5 having any issues with this (unlike AM4, where it was common to accidentally rip the CPU out of the socket when removing a heatsink :o ).
 
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Mach234 (or similar). said:
oh cool that's okay I thought the thermal paste set really hard once it had been heated and the cpu and cooler couldn't be separated without ripping off the top of the cpu..
Click to expand...
Thermal paste should be easy to separate, maybe you're getting confused with horror stories about liquid metal?

I'm not aware of arctic silver 5 having any unusual properties, but it is always easier with thermal paste if you do it when the PC has been hot. If you left it in a freezing cold garage for a week it'd likely be harder to remove.
 
Mach234 (or similar). said:
oh cool that's okay I thought the thermal paste set really hard once it had been heated and the cpu and cooler couldn't be separated without ripping off the top of the cpu..
Click to expand...
Thermal paste can dry out and crumble if its old and not changed for so many years.

What you have said can sometimes happen if you remove the cooler from a system that has not been used then it can be "harder" to remove the cooler. using the system or running a stress test (Or just game for 20 mins) will warm up the thermal paste and should limit down the cooler pulling out the cpu with it
 
Some people had problems with older AMD CPUs. (AM4 for example)

The pins are on the CPU not in the socket and sometimes it could stick to the heatsink and you ended up pulling the CPU out when lifting the heatsink.
That is why you ran the PC for a bit to warm it up and then twist and lift.

You should be ok, but i would still warm it up first just to be safe.
 
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