recommend for fluid

abui1806

abui1806

abui1806

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Joined
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Southampton
Hi guys,

I am in the middle of my build and kinda stuck with the fluid. Which white fluid should I use? My loop contains nickel and copper only. :)
 
Maverick2332 said:
I use this stuff, which is great:
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-014-MH&groupid=962&catid=1531

Theres also a UV variant:
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-040-MH&groupid=962&catid=1531

... and of course this stuff is white:
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-031-MH&groupid=962&catid=1531
Click to expand...

thanks a lot mate! wondering the difference of the £24 compared to the £15 but anyways I have ordered 2 Mayhems Pastel - Ice White Coolant 1L as your 1st recommendation. Merry Christmas! :)
 
The £15 one is standard coolant everything you need :). The £25 one is some kind of engineered fluid if it wasn't from mayhems I'd claim it's a bit of pseudo science but they're a great brand been using them ever since I started watercooling so I trust it's legit science :D.
 
Mynight said:
The £15 one is standard coolant everything you need :). The £25 one is some kind of engineered fluid if it wasn't from mayhems I'd claim it's a bit of pseudo science but they're a great brand been using them ever since I started watercooling so I trust it's legit science :D.
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thanks man. There should not be any significant different between those two, is that correct? This is indeed my very first watercooling build so there are things I have not known/experienced yet.
 
I wouldn't have thought so. I haven't personally used that one so cannot say for sure.

The review does say he got a few degrees drop over standard fluid.

Depends how far you want to go. Personally I'm tight fisted haha.

Edit: quick Google brings up one test of the older version and it was pretty much the same as standard fluid :(.
 
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Mynight said:
I wouldn't have thought so. I haven't personally used that one so cannot say for sure.

The review does say he got a few degrees drop over standard fluid.

Depends how far you want to go. Personally I'm tight fisted haha.

Edit: quick Google brings up one test of the older version and it was pretty much the same as standard fluid :(.
Click to expand...

Ok I will try the £15 first for a couple of months then I will swap to learn more about it. Thank you for your great help. And Merry Christmas! :)
Edit: Yeah I thought so initially, the difference in prices is mainly for peace of mind.
 
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No worries :). If you swap to the more expensive one it would be great if you could post your findings. Any temp diff would be great.

What are you cooling? Can we have some pics when you're done? :)

Merry Christmas to you too mate :).
 
Mynight said:
No worries :). If you swap to the more expensive one it would be great if you could post your findings. Any temp diff would be great.

What are you cooling? Can we have some pics when you're done? :)

Merry Christmas to you too mate :).
Click to expand...

I'm planning and waiting for all the parts and then I will take some photos later on.
My plan includes:

Caselabs SM8 black inside and white outside.
Asus X99 S.
i7 5820K + EK Supremacy EVO (Original CSQ).
Panram Ninja V-Series 4x4Gb.
2x GTX 970 HOFs + 2x Diamond Cooling blocks.
Superflower 1000w white.
Primochill revolver fittings white.
Primochill CTR 240mm tube reservoir D5 enable + EK D5 PWM.
EK coolstream PE 120, 360, 480.
Parvum systems F1.0 White fans.
 
Talking of Fluids, I have just purchased some XSPC blood red fluid, I trust this will be ok ? its premix and very very red. claimed a very very low conductivity hence why i got it.
 
Be very careful mounting the D5 to the reservior. I just used one and couldnt get a decent seal around the pump housing. It leaked out all around it. I'm not sure if my pump being an older one is a slightly smaller one but it was not a good experience. Check the seal NINETYFIVE times before you fill it up. and check it with liquid in before you put it into the rest of the loop.

It made me sad :(
 
i'm now using a D5 and pump top with separate primochill CTR 240 res to make life less leaky. - just an update
 
Nibbles said:
Be very careful mounting the D5 to the reservior. I just used one and couldnt get a decent seal around the pump housing. It leaked out all around it. I'm not sure if my pump being an older one is a slightly smaller one but it was not a good experience. Check the seal NINETYFIVE times before you fill it up. and check it with liquid in before you put it into the rest of the loop.

It made me sad :(
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thanks buddy, I will take a good time examine this, possibly I will use double o-ring as suggested by primochill. :D
 
I used the shim and factory O-ring in its original position.

Shim under factory O-ring

D5 original O-ring on top of factory O-ring

D5 original O-ring on top of factory O-ring AND shim

Factory O ring and shim with D5 O-ring around the pump housing to provide pressure to the metal rings.

It just ****ed out, if you tighten it up like the instruction tell you so that the "motor" (pump) cannot be turned in the ring if pushes the shim over the outside of the pump face and that breaks the seal.

The replacement had no fittings included in the package.

I gave up after loosing a third of a litre of pastel orange and went for separate parts. Good luck to you but short of fabricating a new screw ring to hold the pump LEVEL without it eating half of the outlet or being so tight it cant spin I just could not get it working :(
 
is there any reason why one may not use a long life coolant instead?

i love tinkering and all but having to drain a system every year or even two would hint as something fundamentally unreliable.
 
Nibbles said:
I used the shim and factory O-ring in its original position.

Shim under factory O-ring

D5 original O-ring on top of factory O-ring

D5 original O-ring on top of factory O-ring AND shim

Factory O ring and shim with D5 O-ring around the pump housing to provide pressure to the metal rings.

It just ****ed out, if you tighten it up like the instruction tell you so that the "motor" (pump) cannot be turned in the ring if pushes the shim over the outside of the pump face and that breaks the seal.

The replacement had no fittings included in the package.

I gave up after loosing a third of a litre of pastel orange and went for separate parts. Good luck to you but short of fabricating a new screw ring to hold the pump LEVEL without it eating half of the outlet or being so tight it cant spin I just could not get it working :(
Click to expand...
Right now the parts I ordered from the US (including the reservoir) are with the UK Custom, I will report in full detail once I got them. Merry Christmas.
hell_r@zer said:
is there any reason why one may not use a long life coolant instead?

i love tinkering and all but having to drain a system every year or even two would hint as something fundamentally unreliable.
Click to expand...
I change my parts (graphics cards, CPU, motherboard...) every 6 months, not completely but partially, and I like to clean my system every 2 months so I dont really need a long life coolant. Merry Christmas !:p
 
hell_r@zer said:
is there any reason why one may not use a long life coolant instead?

i love tinkering and all but having to drain a system every year or even two would hint as something fundamentally unreliable.
Click to expand...

Every year or 2 isn't that bad. It's barely a half day job at most to change coolant round.
 
I doubt many issues would be caused by fluid being used for too long. It makes sense biocide and corrosion inhibitors will lose their ability after a while but I have one system that hasn't had a fluid change in almost 4 years and it shows no signs of degrading performance or gunk in the res.
 
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