Removing & Killing Rust

danza · 25 Jul 2013 at 13:27

As per title, I am looking at removing and killing some rust on the tailgate of my wife's E39 Touring.

I understand Bilt Hamber products are the ones to go for, but I can't quite fathom which one(s) from their range to use. There's Deox, Electrox and Hydrate 80, and different people seem to suggest different combinations of the above and it's somewhat confusing me.

What should I buy and use in order to kill the death out of this rust and hopefully stop it from reappearing anywhere too soon down the line?

Also I'm open to suggestions of other products that are supposedly better. I already have some Kurust, but it's crap. I'd also rather not spend millions of pounds buying a 50-step product kit when one or two are proven to be effective.

FIRE AWAY!

Clarkey · 25 Jul 2013 at 13:36

Done the deox gel thing, I found the metal looked exactly the same after the process, waste of time. Others have had good success though?

topshot · 25 Jul 2013 at 13:39

I rubbed rust right back and used Hydrate 80 followed by anti rust paint/primer and then topcoat. Its not come back since (18months)

Dr Who · 25 Jul 2013 at 15:19

Jenolite.

Scrape off loose rust, paint on, leave to change colour, sand, prime & paint.

agnes · 25 Jul 2013 at 16:40

ACF50

Orionaut · 25 Jul 2013 at 17:42

Deox Gell But....!

Dont expect it to do the job in 30 mins!

Leave over night covered in cling film

Rinse and repeat until all trace of rust is gone!

It WILL go in the end and leave the surface so clean it will actually take weeks to start rusting again even if you don't treat it straight away

Best damn rust remover I have ever seen. (Apart from electrolysis, which wont work in OP's case since you have to put the relevant bit in a tank)

Just don't expect it to do it in 30 mins!

Iamzod · 25 Jul 2013 at 17:56

Bilt Hamber is insanely effective, I did my suspension top mounts in it, I did leave them a week as they were crusty to the extreme as can be seen below-

But it's very effective-

danza · 25 Jul 2013 at 17:58

Did you do any preparation/post-soak scrubbing?

Iamzod · 25 Jul 2013 at 18:18

danza said:
Did you do any preparation/post-soak scrubbing?

Yep, a £2 wire wheel drill bit before and after, when I first hit it with the wire wheel after soaking my jaw nearly hit the floor at how easy the rust came off.

mikeh501 · 25 Jul 2013 at 18:51

agnes said:
ACF50

Good stuff for keeping rust at bay on bodywork but it isn't a rust converter.

Bilt hamber is good. Dinitrol converter is good too.

paintguy · 25 Jul 2013 at 18:57

I've used deox and hydrate 80 to good effect.

Without sounding too dramatic, rust is the metal trying to get back to it's natural state so you have to be very determined to stop it. Remove as much as you possibly can by mechanical means before using chemicals. A sander or powered wire wheel attachment is a good start.

With the hydrate 80 I used several applications, working it in well with wire wool and a small wire brush. Leave it to do it's thing and repeat as many times as you need to until there's no red rust at all coming through when you brush it.

Tom_ed1987 · 25 Jul 2013 at 19:50

If it is just surface rust your best off removing it all via mechanical means, even if it means getting the magnifying glass and dremel out.

I have used Hydrate80 on well prepared but still pitted metal, after 3 years the rust broke through. For a long lasting job I recommend removing every trace and etch priming.

eatcustard · 26 Jul 2013 at 11:58

The only way to get rid of rust is to remove it completely, be to cut it out or sanded out, All the "rust killer products" will only slow it down.

I have used the lot on my camper and eradicating it is the only way unless you want it to return.