Replacing ceramic hob

Not supposed to screw 2 down on each point gripping the wire in between??

Although I am not 100 % certain. I've never seen something like that before.
 
Looks like you have the jumpers correct, now just put the wires in.

Green to earth, blue to N1/2 with jumper, brown to L1/2 with jumper.
 
200sols said:
Looks like you have the jumpers correct, now just put the wires in.

Green to earth, blue to N1/2 with jumper, brown to L1/2 with jumper.
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Ah. So the live and neutral wires go in the same holes as the jumpers. So position jumper in holes, then place wires on top of jumper in same holes, then tighten the screw?


Should I feed the neutral wires into N1 or N2 or an I meant to split the gold wires and feed into both N1 and N2? And same question for L1 or L2.
 
200sols said:
Yes that's it, shouldnt need to split the wires the terminal should take them.
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Awesome, thanks. I'm hoping the wires will all fit in one hole along with the jumper, because each wire is about a millimetre thick and there's seven of them on the neutral and four on the live.
 
.... at least the shops are open now

it does look problematic, that the jumper is narrow, but you'd want to ensure the strands are all well trapped laying on top of it.
 
Yeah, might pop to the local electrical shop but frankly, I don't really want to mess around with flex cable extensions, I'd rather get someone who knows what they're doing.

Does this look dangerous? I just noticed that the earth wire sheath is cut and exposing the wires where it shouldn't, and do the wires at the end look charred?


 
Merlin5 said:
Awesome, thanks. I'm hoping the wires will all fit in one hole along with the jumper, because each wire is about a millimetre thick and there's seven of them on the neutral and four on the live.
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They should all have 7 strands. Looks like somebody has cut 3 off the live wire. I would strip it back to 7.

As for earth, they are only sheathed on the end for identification. It runs bare between the live and neutral.
 
200sols said:
They should all have 7 strands. Looks like somebody has cut 3 off the live wire. I would strip it back to 7.

As for earth, they are only sheathed on the end for identification. It runs bare between the live and neutral.
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Ah didn't know that. Thanks buddy.

Well here's the latest. I put the hob in place in the hole as it would be used, took the top drawer out, looked underneath and can see that the wires do actually reach fine. However, I can't wire it from underneath, it's just too awkward, dark and difficult.

Problem is, that's the only way I can get the wires to reach. Doing it the normal way on the worktop and across the top of the hole, the cable isn't long enough from there and I can't position the hob close enough to the wires. And I'd risk it falling through the hole or scratching the glass. Fortunately, my mum's electrician called me back and is going to come on saturday to do it for me and said he would only charge £30. I said to him I'd give him a bit more, £40, since I know he's doing me a favour and doesn't need the job. Better than two other sparkys I'd spoken to who wanted to charge me £100 to £120. Meanwhile, I'll continue and see if there's any way I can wire it up but I'm not optimistic.
 
Probably a good call, you were pretty much there, that live just needs stripping back to expose the 7 conductors, they both should be the same.

The sparky will be used to getting into cupboards for these sorts of things and will sort you out.
 
It's doable I suppose, might give it another go.
I'm worried about the grey flex trailing across the underside of the hob and sagging.

 
isn't there a piece of hardboard protecting underside, and supporting cable ?

Merlin5 said:
After all that, bloody flex cable isn't long enough to reach. :(

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you can rotate the top the other way round, 180degress around the vertical, to get more room to do up connections, rather than doing it inside the draw.
the missing cores needs to be fixed though .. it only 16A / 3mm2 without them.
 
jpaul said:
isn't there a piece of hardboard protecting underside, and supporting cable ?



you can rotate the top the other way round, 180degress around the vertical, to get more room to do up connections, rather than doing it inside the draw.
the missing cores needs to be fixed though .. it only 16A / 3mm2 without them.
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Could that explain the old one having the heating issue it had?
 
No, but there is a risk the copper conductors overheat and cause a fire because of the poor connection.

It needs fixing before you use it again.
 
Well guys, the electrician came and sorted it for me. He said the cable should have been wired into a box. The guy that installed it in 2012 when I had a new kitchen fitted is a builder not an electrician, so that's why it wasn't done properly. So he's wired the grey flex cable from the wall into a white box, and then put a good length of white heat resistant cable coming out of the box and wired into the hob. There's no problem with the cable getting in the way of the drawers which is good. Everything is working fine.

And now if I ever need to change the appliance, I can easily do it myself as there's enough length of cable to work with wherever the connection box is on the hob.
 
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I'm not sure what there is to get wrong. I mean no disrespect but if you need to ask this question, you should probably call an electrician.
 
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