Replacing gas hob with induction - logistics

[cfletch]

We've got a gas hob above an electric oven which appears to be on a shared sockets circuit, looking to replace the gas hob above with an induction hob. I know I'll need a new circuit as induction hobs need a lot of juice and I've got a spare slot/way, but I'm not sure how the logistics work.
I know know I need a gas engineer to come round and cap off the gas supply and then an electrician to fit the new circuit but how does the rest happen.

1. Is the gas engineer going to know how to remove the current hob? My suspicion is at least part of the oven is going to need to come out as there's no visible mounting hardware at the top.
2. Is the electrician going to know how to fit the induction hob, if necessary removing the oven again?
3. How can I be sure that there's enough space below or that the hob will fit in the hole? Do I just do my best with measurements and assume they're either pretty standard or that the electrician can trim it out? Or do I have the hob removed before even booking the electrician or should I involve some kind of kitchen fitter also?

Thanks

 

[Mercenary Keyboard Warrior]

I would assume

1) contact gas engineer to come and disconnect and cap pipe.
2) YOU remove oven and remove hob. They are normally attached with a mastic like substance and a few plates underneath that grip the edges of the worksurface.
3) The electrician needs to install the circuit for you, hob would be wired into a "box" like an oven is, you can do that bit, or get someone competent to do it for you

You check template of your proposed new hob they tend to be similar fitment but you may need to trim a little, easiest done when old removed obviously.
When buying new hob check the depth of it to ensure it will not collide with oven. Should be in the specs how deep it will sit and if it needs x gap beneath it.

 

[cfletch]

I would assume

1) contact gas engineer to come and disconnect and cap pipe.
2) YOU remove oven and remove hob. They are normally attached with a mastic like substance and a few plates underneath that grip the edges of the worksurface.
3) The electrician needs to install the circuit for you, hob would be wired into a "box" like an oven is, you can do that bit, or get someone competent to do it for you

You check template of your proposed new hob they tend to be similar fitment but you may need to trim a little, easiest done when old removed obviously.
When buying new hob check the depth of it to ensure it will not collide with oven. Should be in the specs how deep it will sit and if it needs x gap beneath it.

Thanks for the reply, there's no way to get at the pipe without first removing the hob/and or the oven. It's below a work surface with cabinets both sides and is a stiff copper pipe attached directly to the bottom of the hob, there's no obvious route from the gas meter to it that doesn't involve it going into a brick wall or the concrete foundation!
I guess that leaves me in a position where I have to ensure I can remove/actually remove the oven then book in the gas engineer and the electrician shortly after that?

 

[Mercenary Keyboard Warrior]

Yeah hobs are hard lined to gas typically. I think its always been the regs but not 100% on that. Generally moveable (such as an oven) gas appliances have a flexible hose, but fixed ones are hard piped.

Yeah getting the oven out is normally easy. 4/6 screws total, through each side into the adjacent cupboards, assuming its screwed in and not just wedged in (normally screwed to prevent tipping, but not always)

The gas guy will probably do it for you if you haven't got a clue in advance.

 

[cfletch]

Yeah hobs are hard lined to gas typically. I think its always been the regs but not 100% on that. Generally moveable (such as an oven) gas appliances have a flexible hose, but fixed ones are hard piped.

Yeah getting the oven out is normally easy. 4/6 screws total, through each side into the adjacent cupboards, assuming its screwed in and not just wedged in (normally screwed to prevent tipping, but not always)

The gas guy will probably do it for you if you haven't got a clue in advance.

Thanks, gives me something to think on and work on!

 

[DXP55]

I would assume your cooker will just pull out like a washing machine - it would more than likely have a long connecting cable to it. -it just sits there - then you have access to underside of gas hob.
If you have tiles on floor spray some polish on floor and it will make it easier to pull oven out.
You will probably have to run a 6mm or 10mm cable from hob to consumer unit. I can't remember what I put in for mine.

PS as above there may be screws down front side edges -Mine is eye level and has 4 screws.

 

[cfletch]

I would assume your cooker will just pull out like a washing machine - it would more than likely have a long connecting cable to it. -it just sits there - then you have access to underside of gas hob.
If you have tiles on floor spray some polish on floor and it will make it easier to pull oven out.
You will probably have to run a 6mm or 10mm cable from hob to consumer unit. I can't remember what I put in for mine.

PS as above there may be screws down front side edges -Mine is eye level and has 4 screws.

It's mounted at cupboard level with a panel below it set back a bit, but you're right - it has a couple of screws on the front and it must slide out from some kind of rail, it's the only way you could have fitted the pair of them

 

[Mr.Cookie]

User manual for hob should have sizing for hole if not then oven should just pull out after securing screws removed, after this is done you'll be able to measure the cut out for hob.
The hob should be connected with rigid or semi rigid pipework although I have seen bayonet fittings and as you've said only needs a 3 amp supply circa 700 watts, a good induction will be 7,200 watts plus so will likely need a new supply, we recommend that are on there own RCD as they can cause nuisance tripping if on a split load.

 

[cfletch]

User manual for hob should have sizing for hole if not then oven should just pull out after securing screws removed, after this is done you'll be able to measure the cut out for hob.
The hob should be connected with rigid or semi rigid pipework although I have seen bayonet fittings and as you've said only needs a 3 amp supply circa 700 watts, a good induction will be 7,200 watts plus so will likely need a new supply, we recommend that are on there own RCD as they can cause nuisance tripping if on a split load.

Don't have manual for any of it unfortunately, been here 6 years and none of that was left. Could guess but probably best to measure I suppose.
Definitely looks like rigid pipework though.
Have room for a spare RCD, just a matter of the electrician finding room and a way to do the cabling!

Thanks for your help everyone.

 

[b0rn2sk8]

Get the electrician in first to put in the new circuit, you may find it’s not feasible, you don’t want to do that after you have already capped the gas.

The hob circuit will need to be ran to an isolator switch and then to a blanking place which the flex which attaches to the hob runs to.

The final connection is the easy but, getting power to the location is the hard bit. It should only need a 4mm unless it’s a really long run.

I’ll be honest, switching from gas to an induction hob is usually done when the entire kitchen is replaced so you can hide the cables. Retro fitting is a usually a complete pain in the rear because you can’t get the cable to the hob easily, really you want it chased into the wall with a counter top isolation switch installed.

 

[cfletch]

Get the electrician in first to put in the new circuit, you may find it’s not feasible, you don’t want to do that after you have already capped the gas.

The hob circuit will need to be ran to an isolator switch and then to a blanking place which the flex which attaches to the hob runs to.

The final connection is the easy but, getting power to the location is the hard bit. It should only need a 4mm unless it’s a really long run.

I’ll be honest, switching from gas to an induction hob is usually done when the entire kitchen is replaced so you can hide the cables. Retro fitting is a usually a complete pain in the rear because you can’t get the cable to the hob easily, really you want it chased into the wall with a counter top isolation switch installed.

Thanks for the reply.
I definitely need an electrician or two round to confirm the cabling can done. It'll have to run along a hallway (there's some boxing there already, under the stairs and then under a fitted counter. Impractical to chase it into the wall I would think but I don't know the regulations! Existing oven has an isolation switch in the cupboard with room for another.
It's unfortunately not practical to install the circuit before removing the oven and I was trying to avoid doing that on and off.

Was hoping to avoid a full kitchen renovation but maybe I'll have to wait!

 

[b0rn2sk8]

Removing a built in oven literally takes 30 seconds and perhaps another 60 to unwire it from the terminal plate if it doesn’t just have a plug on the end. It’s usually just 2 screws in the trim behind the door and it slides out.

Any competent trades person will be raising an eyebrow I’d you are worrying about them doing that.

 

[cfletch]

Absolutely not worried about them doing it, wondered if it was one of those things they expected to be done already as not their job.
Thanks!