RoEy Watercooled Build Log

Hi N19h7m4r3,

Not going to have a dual rad in the top compartment as I'm getting a TFC Xchanger Quad rad for the bottom compartment. Hopefully that should keep CPU/GPU nice and cool.

When will the 1366 mounting kits be released? I was going to get the EK Supreme i7 Acetal as it's getting good reviews:

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-000-EK&tool=3

I won't be buying water cooling parts till end of Feb anyway, maybe mid March as I want to have the system built and fully tested on air before I go to WC.

Definitely going to invest in some masking tape, would it be best to cover most of the motherboard tray while cutting?

Cheers,

RoEy
 
The Ek is good, but gets outperformed on the i7 by the Koolance 350.

Sadly D-Tek haven't given eny release dates yet for their mounting kits :(

My biggest gripe with the EK block is the lack of a back plate.

Just don't overclock the cpu too much, people are getting high 60-70's even with a quad rad, when they have the gpu on it too.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=214011

But the rad will do you proud :D


When cutting you don't need to cover most of the mobo tray, only about 2-3 inches around the area you're cutting.

Make sure you're using painters masking tape, somr normal ones are very tough to get off and can damage the paint.
 
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N19h7m4r3 said:
The Ek is good, but gets outperformed on the i7 by the Koolance 350.

Sadly D-Tek haven't given eny release dates yet for their mounting kits :(

My biggest gripe with the EK block is the lack of a back plate.

Just don't overclock the cpu too much, people are getting high 60-70's even with a quad rad, when they have the gpu on it too.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=214011

But the rad will do you proud :D


When cutting you don't need to cover most of the mobo tray, only about 2-3 inches around the area you're cutting.

Make sure you're using painters masking tape, somr normal ones are very tough to get off and can damage the paint.
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The info said that their is a backplate now for the koolance block.

Bit disappointed to be honest, aint a great point to go with water if I'm going to get them sort of temps. Don't fancy spending over £400 to get 60/70 temps.

Where can I get painters masking tape from? Email a link?

Cheers,

RoEy
 
Oh sorry to confuse you m8. The Koolance ships with plate for 1366.

I ment the D-Tek Fuzion does not yet have one. :D

Also In fairness you'd better off with water if you plan to over clock. Keeps it far more stable :)

Also you can get painters masking tape at any DIY store really :)

I picked 3 rolls for 6 Euro so it's pretty cheap. It's also usually blue compared to normal tape that's white.

On another note, remember. Water cooling is an investment, you rarely upgrade and can transfer parts to a new build :)
 
N19h7m4r3 said:
Oh sorry to confuse you m8. The Koolance ships with plate for 1366.

I ment the D-Tek Fuzion does not yet have one. :D

Also In fairness you'd better off with water if you plan to over clock. Keeps it far more stable :)

Also you can get painters masking tape at any DIY store really :)

I picked 3 rolls for 6 Euro so it's pretty cheap. It's also usually blue compared to normal tape that's white.

On another note, remember. Water cooling is an investment, you rarely upgrade and can transfer parts to a new build :)
Click to expand...

Would you recommend the Koolance 350 then? Plus, I've just seen the GTX285 Koolance water block! Think I just fell inlove, ha ha ha!

Catch you later,

RoEy
 
I'd easily recomend the 350 over the EK.

Also yes, the GTX285 block is very very nice :D

On the topic of Koolance, I'd recomend their compression fittings any day. Simple the best ones out there.

Hope I could help :)
 
Oh yes, easily.

If you're going to for normal barbs, try and get your hands on DP Fatboys. Best grip out there second only to compression fittings.

Also ALWAYS use hose clamps.

No matter what people say, use them. Better safe than sorry.
 
rjkoneill said:
7/16 tubing
and DTek 1/2 barbs

they wont come off unless you cut them off

i build systems for a living - it is the truth
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Better safe than sorry, also try reading some of the horror stories on Xtreme Systems of Pro's where the things do get loose.

I myself have used 7/16 over 1/2 barbs and I can easily pull them off.

I prefer compression fittings.

But each to their own I guess.
 
Typhoon said:
Subcribed :) Where did you get the internals powder coated?
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Hi Typhoon,

I can't say mate otherwise I'll break forum rules. If you leave me your email address I can email you with the details.

N19h7m4r3 said:
Better safe than sorry, also try reading some of the horror stories on Xtreme Systems of Pro's where the things do get loose.

I myself have used 7/16 over 1/2 barbs and I can easily pull them off.

I prefer compression fittings.

But each to their own I guess.
Click to expand...

Hi Al,

Good chatting to you last night mate. I've not had an email back from Nils this morning so I hope he get's back intouch soon so I can start the ball rolling. I've heard it's almost impossible to remove 7/16 tubing from 1/2 barbs. I'm thinking of getting the Danger Den FatBoy Barbs, which makes an even tigher seal, plus with clips too.

RoEy
 
Can't believe I missed the start of this. I'm now in the opposite situtation as I have everything *except* the case, which is still at the powdercoaters.

I got an EK-supreme block the other day, and it came with both the old-style and the 1366 mountings, with the 1366 one mounted.
 
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