These seem to go directly backwards from the front of the faceplate - there won't be much room to push /bend the cable itself back into the backbox will there? Is CAT6 quite flexible or not?Tooless Keystone Jack (example)
Those are the wrong ones that's why. Are you confident using a punch down tall? YouTube it. The jacks are a lot cheaper and much smaller.These seem to go directly backwards from the front of the faceplate - there won't be much room to push /bend the cable itself back into the backbox will there? Is CAT6 quite flexible or not?
You're probably right but for what it's worth I've had cat5 basic stuff outdoors for 15 years without issue.Personally i would run Cat6A as it is better shielded for electrical interference if you can afford it.
Otherwise i would do the same as dlockers with regard to fitment.
You can get angled fronts for the keystone jacks that help with the cable
Funnily enough i ran some standard cat5e outside temporarily at an old house.It was there for 5 years and worked perfectly until i removed it when we moved.You're probably right but for what it's worth I've had cat5 basic stuff outdoors for 15 years without issue.
He's already said - so he doesn't have to do drops and trunking from the ceiling.It’s much easier just to run the cable up into the loft, then down again into the room you want it to.
Why go to all the effort of drilling through brick/cavity and then clipping the cable along the outside wall only to drill it back in the house again.
Cat6A is only as good as your termination - which I guarantee won't be good enough to meet standard. Cat6A is also less flexible and can be more difficult to run, especially in a home environment (rather than on cable tray, ducting etc) - Cat6 is more than good enough for home use.Personally i would run Cat6A as it is better shielded for electrical interference if you can afford it.
Otherwise i would do the same as dlockers with regard to fitment.
You can get angled fronts for the keystone jacks that help with the cable
Those are the wrong ones that's why. Are you confident using a punch down tall? YouTube it. The jacks are a lot cheaper and much smaller.
Yep - it is easyIt looks pretty easy? Push the cable strand in the slot and push it in with the tool?
Could you go into a bit more detail as to why you think the first bit. I have Cat6A run throughout the house we are building at the moment.Cat6A is only as good as your termination - which I guarantee won't be good enough to meet standard. Cat6A is also less flexible and can be more difficult to run, especially in a home environment (rather than on cable tray, ducting etc) - Cat6 is more than good enough for home use.
Yep! Just make sure you buy the tool and put it the right way around . It won't be the last time I put the scissor bit on the inside!It looks pretty easy? Push the cable strand in the slot and push it in with the tool?
Because if the shielding and/or drain wire aren't connected properly then the shielding can actually cause the length of cable to act as an antenna, picking up rather than rejecting interference.Could you go into a bit more detail as to why you think the first bit. I have Cat6A run throughout the house we are building at the moment.
This is what I had hanging out my window for about 20 years til the builders trampled on itYou're probably right but for what it's worth I've had cat5 basic stuff outdoors for 15 years without issue.
One thing I will say is, drill from outside in to avoid butcher a big chunk of out your facing brick
Agreed. All Cat6A does in a home is increase the cost and difficulty of working with the cable.Cat6A is only as good as your termination - which I guarantee won't be good enough to meet standard. Cat6A is also less flexible and can be more difficult to run, especially in a home environment (rather than on cable tray, ducting etc) - Cat6 is more than good enough for home use.