Running cables with chipboard floors - Armeg solid board cutter?

[Nick1881]

I need to run some network cables around my house and was planning on lifting floorboards, until my cousin pointed out that it will be chipboard flooring. Apparently this is a big problem. My brother said he would cut a slot in the floor with a cicular saw, then add joists and screw the removed bits of wood back in. My worry is that this will eventually cause creaking.

Another thing is to use a rebated hole saw, such as the Armeg solid board cutter, these come with plugs that you drop in to the hole as it doesn't cut a straight edge. Anyone have any experience of these? The Armeg brand ones aren't cheap but possibly the best. Should I buy 111mm or 127mm?

 

[Reuben klang]

Screw them down and glue them, won’t creak.

 

[Simon42]

I tried the Trend Routabout many years ago which cuts 250mm holes so 111/127mm sounds small when trying to drill through joists for cable/pipe runs. However I never liked the fact that any of these solutions leave a section that is only supported on part (often about two thirds) of the original 18/22mm depth so will never be as strong as before.

Given chipboard is already the weakest flooring to start with this is a concern and I prefer to cut sections up, batten and replace. I don't glue flooring (between boards or boards/joists) as I like access down the line but done properly I've never had a problem of squeaks later on.

 

[Quartz]

I need to run some network cables around my house and was planning on lifting floorboards, until my cousin pointed out that it will be chipboard flooring.

Why not take the opportunity to replace the floorboards with something better?

 

[K.C. Leblanc]

The trouble with floorboards is you never know what's underneath. And there's always a risk of drilling through something.

On the other hand a circular saw can be set to barely saw any deeper.

Have you actually had the carpets up. There may already have been some sections cut.

 

[Nick1881]

I tried the Trend Routabout many years ago which cuts 250mm holes so 111/127mm sounds small when trying to drill through joists for cable/pipe runs. However I never liked the fact that any of these solutions leave a section that is only supported on part (often about two thirds) of the original 18/22mm depth so will never be as strong as before.

Given chipboard is already the weakest flooring to start with this is a concern and I prefer to cut sections up, batten and replace. I don't glue flooring (between boards or boards/joists) as I like access down the line but done properly I've never had a problem of squeaks later on.

Is this something that you do professionally? If so it would be great if you were in the midlands.

The trouble with floorboards is you never know what's underneath. And there's always a risk of drilling through something.

On the other hand a circular saw can be set to barely saw any deeper.

Have you actually had the carpets up. There may already have been some sections cut.

Not had the carpet up yet. The Armeg hole saw doesn’t cut much passed the boards anyway.

 

[Simon42]

Is this something that you do professionally? If so it would be great if you were in the midlands.

Not any more. I use to install various systems for commercial and domestic clients hence have dealt with a lot of floor types.

Creaking is from movement of flooring against fixings or adjacent boards/sheets. Provided there is adequate new support timber for cuts spanning joists, good screws with appropriate depth (and not reusing old screw/nail holes without packing) then there really shouldn't be creaks.

Edit: One other tip for removing lots of flooring is to use a mini circular saw (85mm blade) instead of a regular sized one. These cut much slimmer slots than regular saws and can get a lot nearer to the walls. Basic ones are very cheap from TS/Screwfix and work well.

 

[Nick1881]

Not any more. I use to install various systems for commercial and domestic clients hence have dealt with a lot of floor types.

Creaking is from movement of flooring against fixings or adjacent boards/sheets. Provided there is adequate new support timber for cuts spanning joists, good screws with appropriate depth (and not reusing old screw/nail holes without packing) then there really shouldn't be creaks.

Ok thanks.

My problem is that I need my brother and cousin here at the same time to go this route, where if I get the holesaw I only need my cousin which is easier. They both work full time though so still not easy, I’m considering just paying someone tbh. Just trying to save some money as I’m tight.

 

[Mysterae_]

I tried the Trend Routabout many years ago which cuts 250mm holes so 111/127mm sounds small when trying to drill through joists for cable/pipe runs. However I never liked the fact that any of these solutions leave a section that is only supported on part (often about two thirds) of the original 18/22mm depth so will never be as strong as before.

Given chipboard is already the weakest flooring to start with this is a concern and I prefer to cut sections up, batten and replace. I don't glue flooring (between boards or boards/joists) as I like access down the line but done properly I've never had a problem of squeaks later on.

The Trend Routabout is my go to system for cutting access holes in flooring and have cut a lot of them over the years.

I'm not sure what you mean by "supported on part (often about two thirds) of the original 18/22mm depth" as long as you use the correct ring for the thickness of the flooring it will match. Since the rings are made of hard plastic of some sort they are stronger than the chipboard they are going in to. The result is a large, flush and strong access hole with minimum risk of nicking a pipe or cable when making a hole.
The only downsides are that you need a router and each hole can take longer than just blindly drilling holes and jigsawing.

I loath the jigsaw and battening method, the previous owners of this house did it and the battenings are giving away going by the amount of divots in the carpet. I can't wait to lift the carpet to see the mess they've left.

 

[Simon42]

I'm not sure what you mean by "supported on part (often about two thirds) of the original 18/22mm depth" as long as you use the correct ring for the thickness of the flooring it will match.

I am referring to the ring resting on less than the full thickness of the chipboard as per your picture above on the outer cut. It's irrelevant how strong the spacer ring is in this case as its supported by less than the original 18 or 22mm chipboard.

For 22mm chip chipboard it's probably not too bad, but chipboard is already weaker than real wood floorboards, plywood and most modern non wood alternative materials and I just prefer a stronger solution.

Using an 85mm mini circular saw means I can cut out any size piece with minimal cut loss and accurately using a track. I can batten quickly and strongly with pocket holes, right angle/offset drivers and leave a stronger result in no much more time than using my routabout.

 

[Mysterae_]

I am referring to the ring resting on less than the full thickness of the chipboard as per your picture above on the outer cut. It's irrelevant how strong the spacer ring is in this case as its supported by less than the original 18 or 22mm chipboard.

For 22mm chip chipboard it's probably not too bad, but chipboard is already weaker than real wood floorboards, plywood and most modern non wood alternative materials and I just prefer a stronger solution.

I see what you mean, it could be said that the ring is sitting on an edge of the board that's now half it's original thickness, but over the circumference of the ring I doubt it's a problem. I like to glue the plastic ring in place but leave the chipboard insert free to be removed later.

 

[Quartz]

Just how thick is the chipboard? When my late father boarded out the attic he chose 10mm chipboard.