Running CAT6/5 Cables


You'll be fine at that distance, supposedly Cat6 can do 10 Gbps up to 55 meters but I think people have found in practice the distance to be less than this.

Those cables are stranded so you're happy for the cable to plug straight into the router and the PC rather than using solid cable and terminating it into a wall socket, then using a patch cable from the wall socket to the devices?
 
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I'm not sure anyone still refers to cat5e as anything but "cat5" but if people like being pedantic that's fine. Besides it was purely a test/certification thing 99.99% of them are the same physically.
 
Shove as many cables as you can in the trunking :D, I'd even run one cat5e to use as a vdsl extension and another to use as a wireless access point if wireless coverage is poor upstairs. Make sure the cables are twisted pair and non cca for best results. All cables can be terminated in one box and all you need is rj45 and a rj11/12 module.

I have no idea what you just said... My networking skills are up there with the masterminds...

Basically if you have the opportunity to add more cables into the trunking then you may as well. :D

VDSL Extension is attaching one pair (blue/blue+white wire) of the CAT5e cable to your Openreach Faceplate and the other end to a Rj11 module. What this will allow you to do is place your BT modem in your office or a more centralized area in your house for even wi-fi distribution from your router.

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but CAT5e can run upto 10Gb at a distance of 37m after which crosstalk and noise becomes an issue. So as long as you use a good quality solid core pure copper cable referred to as non stranded cca (copper cladded aluminium - this is just cheap stuff) then your Sync speeds will be the same as if it the modem was connected directly to the master socket.
 
Basically if you have the opportunity to add more cables into the trunking then you may as well. :D

VDSL Extension is attaching one pair (blue/blue+white wire) of the CAT5e cable to your Openreach Faceplate and the other end to a Rj11 module. What this will allow you to do is place your BT modem in your office or a more centralized area in your house for even wi-fi distribution from your router.

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but CAT5e can run upto 10Gb at a distance of 37m after which crosstalk and noise becomes an issue. So as long as you use a good quality solid core pure copper cable referred to as non stranded cca (copper cladded aluminium - this is just cheap stuff) then your Sync speeds will be the same as if it the modem was connected directly to the master socket.

I always use this as my reminder for Ethernet cable type uses. So Cat5e is good for a max of 1 Gbps and Cat6 is the minimum for 10 Gbps.

http://www.howtogeek.com/70494/what-kind-of-ethernet-cat-5e6a-cable-should-i-use/
 
VDSL Extension is attaching one pair (blue/blue+white wire) of the CAT5e cable to your Openreach Faceplate and the other end to a Rj11 module. What this will allow you to do is place your BT modem in your office or a more centralized area in your house for even wi-fi distribution from your router.

Got a guide to do this?
 
Thread hijack::::

What cable to cover home network and POE Ip cameras


Oh and future proofing an renovation
Ta

If the IP cameras are external then some CAT5e Solid UTP External Grade will be fine for the job. For future proofing CAT6 or CAT6a would be ideal but they are not as flexible as CAT5e.
 
I found some Cat6 that said it wasn't suitable for POE so wasn't sure if I needed any extra special stuff

Says NO
http://www.kinetic-group.co.uk/kortex_cables/products/data_cable/cat5e_cca7/

Doesn't say yes
http://www.kinetic-group.co.uk/kortex_cables/products/data_cable/cat5e_cca15/

The cheaper one is not solid copper, but is copper coated aluminium and magnesium - not as good a conductor, and not recommended at all, let alone poe!

Try fruitycables or universal networks for rolls of cable, used them both in the past - they do every sort of network cable available.
 
Hi guys,

Getting Infinity activated on Tuesday, and the master socket it right by my front door. The living room is a bit too far to just run a cable and also I want it upstairs in the office.

I'm not that confident in running them through the walls (Wouldn't know where to start) so I was think about getting a conduit/cable trunk along the wall's to upstairs.

My main question is, CAT5e or CAT6a?
Secondly what would the smallest size for the conduit I would need just to fit the 1 cable (Switch in the office).

Nobody has said this yet but if you are having an engineer visit he MAY (depends on his mood and how the cable comes into your house) move the master socket if you want freely for you (check and ask first if there will be a charge). Some will be jobs worths and technically write it all down and you get billed and others (if its easy to do will just do it freely) Check with him/her first.

If your cable enters the property via a phone pole and there is enough cable to just disconnect it from your socket, relocate the socket and connect it all up the engineer (if he is one of the nicer ones) will do that for nothing (its when the cable is fixed in place somehow, (clips, through more than one wall, not easily removed etc) that costs normally get added.

As for cable types if its under a 50 Metre run CAT5e cable will be fine, this is what BT use for their (max 30M) VDSL extension kits. Use solid cable rather than stranded especially if its running externally. Conduit you will want minimum of 10mm though 15mm or thereabouts is probably better (As a rough guide it varies a bit... Cat5e cable is 6mm diameter typically cat6 is 7mm and cat6a and beyond 8mm).

CAT6 is nice to have and is a bit thicker, well worth it if cost difference is small over CAT5e and is what i would probably use. CAT6A and FTP (foil twisted pair) stuff is total waste of money and overkill. FTP stuff is also even thicker, will not bend around corners etc as easy and is a right mare to stop it curling back on itself. For anything less than 100M though CAT5e will be fine for most people for the next 5-10 years or more.

If running it internally you can buy cornicing/trunking that looks similar to skirting board for a couple of quid for a metre or two. This is more wife friendly than an ugly round tube. (do a google images search for "network cabling skirting board" you can buy it from various online vendors and even places like wickes which someone mentioned already).

I personally suggest you fit a cat5/6 faceplate in the room you extend the cable to. Then run a standard network cable in the room from that to computer/routers/switches. RJ45 cable plugs have a nasty habbit of breaking when you dont want them to (normally the little sprung latch) with a faceplate you will not have that issue, it also is neater and is the way things should be done rather than some pre terminated 30+ metre cable. Though if you are not comfortable doing that a long pre terminated cable is ok.

An earlier poster mentioned a youtube video by Mr telephone AKA My mate vince i personally suggest you watch all his relevant videos...
https://www.youtube.com/user/mymatevince
You will likely learn a lot or a little but you will likely learn something.
 
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Didn't read this bit but,

It depends on if you have the modem next to the master socket or not. Cat6 has tighter coils of copper, which would in theory increase the effective distance of the copper over the same distance as Cat5e.

If you don't have the modem next to the master socket, then get the Cat5e to keep the copper as short as possible. If you're running the cable from the modem next to the master socket to elsewhere in the house, then whichever one is fine.
 
Personally my socket/router is in a decent place but my gaming computer will have to be hidden away in the guest bedroom, I am thinking of getting a thin ethernet cable to run to the pc. In my case it will have to be attached to the skirting board but it will be more minimalist and less bulky than trunking and a regular cable. These thin cables are also really good for running under carpets if you have that option.
 
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Personally my socket/router is in a decent place but my gaming computer will have to be hidden away in the guest bedroom, I am thinking of getting a thin ethernet cable to run to the pc. In my case it will have to be attached to the skirting board but it will be more minimalist and less bulky than trunking and a regular cable. These thin cables are also really good for running under carpets if you have that option.

Do NOT use thiner (IE phone cable) or untwisted or flat cabling for anything more than about 5 metres. The twists in the cable help prevent interference. You can buy some flat twisted cable but check its not singular pairs in in that are twisted rather than them all being twisted. Most of the flat CAT5/6 etc cable is either not twisted or its only singular pairs that are.

In your case if you do not want trunking then id probably recommend some regular CAT5e cabling and a bag of cable clips and as you say attaching it to the skirting.

Depending on your home and what flooring you have you may be able to lift carpet or laminate flooring along the skirting board and find a small gap running between the skirting and the floorboards where you can hide the cable entirely.
 
Personally my socket/router is in a decent place but my gaming computer will have to be hidden away in the guest bedroom, I am thinking of getting a thin ethernet cable to run to the pc. In my case it will have to be attached to the skirting board but it will be more minimalist and less bulky than trunking and a regular cable. These thin cables are also really good for running under carpets if you have that option.

Don't do it
 
Cat5 is fine for gigabit - but no-one sells it and you have to be very careful with installation for reliable gigabit (we have some at work - works most of the time but I think its responsible for some flakyness - trying to get permission to replace it). 5e is much preferred. CCA is a no-no.
 
Is there an arguement for or against just running 1 Cat6/a cable to each room and then if need be adding ports at a later date for expansion if need be
 
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It's usually almost as easy to run multiple cables as it is one, especially if you're pulling from multiple boxes of cable.

If you're surface clipping then just run what you need for the foreseeable future.

If you're burying the cable into the building's structure then run at least two to each location, and possibly more.

It really depends on how much hassle it will be to run additional cables in the future. Only you can decide that.
 
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