rust treatment spray..

Matt82

Matt82

Matt82

Soldato
Joined
13 Mar 2004
Posts
16,649
i know nothing about bodywork or paint etc so bear with me.

just had a peak under the golf, first time since the snow, although the car performed heroically, the ice/grit/salt has not passed without leaving a mark.

the car is low, quite stupidly low. the leading edge of the subframe has had a fair bit of paint removed. in some placed there is rust coming through. it generally looks a mess. one of the PAS pipes is externally corroded too.

i want to clean it up and apply a spray that will

A) stop the rust
B) give it a coating to protect it.

is there such a thing or is this a manual labour, wire brush it down and respray it, job
 
Waxoyl but it is messy and if not applied properly a waste of time.
 
Lopez and Lyr both raved about the Bilt Hmaber Deox Gel (linked above)

have a search for it on here, there are some outstanding results from it !
 
Think stonechip is pretty good for coating after you've got rid of the rust and applied zinc primer (sold by bilthamber too).
 
waxoyl doesnt treat it, merely protects.

wire brush it down, treat it with Deox C, and then once dry whack on the waxoyl/underseal.

job done.

don't use kurust, its crap in comparison to Deox C.
 
stonechip is paint right? and itll be hard wearing as youd need for a subframe thats only a few inches off the ground?

basically, the strip of ice weve had down the middle of the road for the last few days has scrubbed my subframe raw. same with wishbones
 
Sorry I thought you were doing bodywork not the actual subframe, I think people just paint metal parts not stonechip. Will go find out and get back to you.
 
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I think most people just paint subframes, can't find any specific info but I see that most people have just painted them. So strip, treat, then paint.
 
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Don't use kurust or waxoyl.

For small bits you can soak in a vat, get some deox-c (crystals to dissolve in warm water), or for the body parts get some deox-gel and some clingfilm. This stuff is the **** and literally eats the rust off the car leaving behind steel only.

Clean it up and paint on 2 coats of electrox primer and you are sorted. Sorted the Teg out with this stuff and I so far see why it is soo critically acclaimed. I then topped it odd with the dynax UB sealant wax, far better than the horrible waxoyl that just chips and harbours water underneath = bad bad!
 
Honestly, don't bother with the waxoyl, hammerite or any other generic brand. Pick up some Bilt hamber products and do it properly so you are safe in the knowledge that this big task is done properly with the best stuff, and will last a long long time!!!!

Deox-C solution 10:1

This was after a 16hr soak. Note the yellow colour after some rust nom nom and after a little scrub with a wire brush the shiny metal!
dsc03563.jpg


Some bush fitting after the initial electrox coat (2nd was applied after bush fitting to get missed and rubbed off bits)
dsc03656b.jpg


All sprayed up and laquered front suspension arms.
dsc03710w.jpg



Deox-Gel - Drivers side front arch
A quick scrub and 1 hour to test out the gel:
dsc035710.jpg


Grind down then put on another coat to leave for 24hrs.
dsc03684x.jpg


Scrub it all 24hrs later with a wire brush and voila (not 100% but close).
dsc03689u0.jpg


Finish the sanding down + prep then electrox it all.
dsc036920.jpg



Finished arch with x2 coats of Dynax UB wax - DONE
dsc04859l.jpg
 
You arn't listening :p

Buy cheap crap and that is what you will get. Certainly forget rust converters that stuff won't do much, you need to grind/sand off as much as you can then literally remove it from the metal substrate with something like deox-gel. Seal it with a primer like the electrox then underseal it properly.

That underbody seal isn't great and the reports show it has a good tendancy to harden up, peel/chip, letting water/crap get underneath right up to the metal and start the rusting all over again.

SPend a bit more on the bilt hamber products, they are harped on about because they really are that good. Do it once, do it properly!

1. http://www.bilthamber.com/deoxgelbuy.php
2. http://www.bilthamber.com/electroxbuy.php
3. http://www.bilthamber.com/bilthamber-special-offers.php#dynaxub
 
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If it's just the subframe I wouldn't bother going to town with it, if you're doing it in place I'd just do the one patch.
 
fonzee said:
harbours water underneath? sure you got the right product?
Click to expand...

If it goes hard then chips/peels then water/crap will get inbetween the protective layer and the substrate. Hard to dry out and will just sit there happily trying to corrode away.
 
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