rust treatment spray..

SPend a bit more on the bilt hamber products, they are harped on about because they really are that good. Do it once, do it properly!

im not one for internet myths though. a lot of people bang on about this and that being absolute essentials in life when its just not true in a lot of cases and theyre just regurjitating what the last person said.

plus im not stripping the subframe and wishbones off to do the job plus i want to do it this weekend at the latest so i need them pronto so can get it from toolstation.

(not being arsey here at all but) do you actually have experience of the products youve listed being far superior to other products available on the market?
 
(not being arsey here at all but) do you actually have experience of the products youve listed being far superior to other products available on the market?

I do. I've tried Kurust and Rust in Piece before trying Deox-c, I wouldn't waste my time and effort with anything other than Deox-c now, it's simply a superior product.

Spend the extra tenner over that other crap you posted, nobody wants to be under a car longer than they have to be in this sort of weather, certainly not to find out if a product works or not either.
 
I do. I've tried Kurust and Rust in Piece before trying Deox-c, I wouldn't waste my time and effort with anything other than Deox-c now, it's simply a superior product.

Spend the extra tenner over that other crap you posted, nobody wants to be under a car longer than they have to be in this sort of weather, certainly not to find out if a product works or not either.

ok, where can i get it in a hurry, ie before the weekend
 
Bilthamber products are sworn buy on the Puma forums and Puma's are known for having an issue with rusting rear arches (design flaw so they rust from the inside out) and suggested as the only long term solution that works. I would trust these products over any other as its been an ongoing battle on the forums for years now so everyone has tried to solve it and Bilthamber stuff is the solution!
 
Honestly, don't bother with the waxoyl, hammerite or any other generic brand.

Neither Waxoyl or Hammerite are "generic" brands.

However, none of the wax based rust preventions work well in very exposed areas IMO, they tend to get blasted off by the stream of rain and grit.
 
For anyone interested in this sort of thing, Practical Classics have bare metalled a Sierra and will be driving it all winter with various rust preventing coatings. Really looking forward to seeing the results of that!
 
For anyone interested in this sort of thing, Practical Classics have bare metalled a Sierra and will be driving it all winter with various rust preventing coatings. Really looking forward to seeing the results of that!

for a quick fix i think ill go for

degrease
heat gun to dry it
drill plus wire wheel to get crap off (only surface at the mo)
heat gun to blow all the crap off
zinc primer
some form of heavy duty black paint

i need to face it, with a subframe on a few inches from the ground, its going to make contact with stuff, no paint ever will stop the metal from being exposed
 
im not one for internet myths though. a lot of people bang on about this and that being absolute essentials in life when its just not true in a lot of cases and theyre just regurjitating what the last person said.

plus im not stripping the subframe and wishbones off to do the job plus i want to do it this weekend at the latest so i need them pronto so can get it from toolstation.

(not being arsey here at all but) do you actually have experience of the products youve listed being far superior to other products available on the market?

Used waxoyl before on my old sunny beast. Went hard and did chip and come away from the substrate. Other than that spent far too much time reading up on these products, and not just random forum hero posts.

Fair enough being in a rush, but just decide whether better to rush it with inferior products, or source the best stuff and do it properly :)

To the guy asking about the wheel arch use. Yep fine, used deox gel then electrox then dynax wax on underbody, arches, wings, subframe etc etc. You can see the results in the pics plus many car forums and especially practical classics bang on about how good their products are.

They really have put the effort into developing the best and prices are very reasonable. Also be careful as I'm materials engi, and too much talk of this will set me off :p
 
Underseal looks lovely and gloopy when you put it on, but it hardens over time, cracks and then starts letting water in where it sits in a layer underneath the underseal, rotting the steel in the process.

Certainly does, I've chipped off old underseal many times to find fresh air underneath.
 
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