I had meant .. did problem occur when you turned an electrical item on, moreover maybe turn on window demist/full-beam/cig-lighter etc with the car in the drive.
Will/did H&P themselves tell you the immobilizer by-pass strategy ?
S2000 AP1 Fault - Advice required
- Thread starter Drollic
- Start date
Will/did H&P themselves tell you the immobilizer by-pass strategy ?
No, nothing was adjusted - it was about 30 minutes into a journey. No strat for bypass as the specific tech with all the info/expertise is only available wed and thurs.
Auto electrician out today. Went straight to immobiliser with the drivers seat out and carpet up. Straight away it looked as though things had been repaired at some point previously. Two wires found with part frayed wiring and corrosion. Cut out and reconnected with heat shrink tubing to seal. A couple of others also tidied up. Whilst the car was running idle to test, he went to put the seat back in and the car cut out exactly at the point he put his hand on the immobiliser box itself. I think he actually lent on it slightly by mistake whilst trying to get the seat back. No heads on two of the screws with 4 missing on the box itself so he had to dremmel the box open. He mentioned it's sometimes done to try and make it anti tamper, but when it comes to a repair it's then a nightmare to prize them open. As per one or two posts online on one of the s2k forums, a pin on the back relating to the fuel had a very minor scorch mark on it and the solder had a small crack together with looking pretty worn along with one or two others in comparison to how they should look. Spot soldered all of these. He agreed it could be down to the pump drawing slightly more current than when new and in turn over a long period it's caused the solder to go bad on that pin.
Car was ran on idle and was fine then driven twice later today and has been normal, so hopefully that's the issue fixed. I'm not exactly sure what wires he worked on coming out from the box itself, however on cut out this time there was no dashboard flicker at all, which almost suggested some kind of short. I'm not expecting the car to cut out any longer but be interesting to see if the rare key startup issue is also fixed.
Car was ran on idle and was fine then driven twice later today and has been normal, so hopefully that's the issue fixed. I'm not exactly sure what wires he worked on coming out from the box itself, however on cut out this time there was no dashboard flicker at all, which almost suggested some kind of short. I'm not expecting the car to cut out any longer but be interesting to see if the rare key startup issue is also fixed.
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Glad to hear the issue appears to be sorted. The H&P systems are pretty problematic.