Securing posts for a compost bins

#Chri5# · 18 Sep 2017 at 14:52

Our existing 3 bay/bin compost heap is falling apart. It was assembled from old pallets and scrap wood by the previous owner.

My plan is use to 75x75mm fence posts to build 3 new bays (so 6 posts). I'll use something like 25x38mm laths to create a vertical "grooves" on each post, then use 22x200mm boards as slats to drop in for the sides. So 25+25+22 is just shy of 75mm, so the slats should slide in with a tap but also be snug. The six corner posts will be 1.1m to 1.3m high and shielded by existing fences, so aren't that exposed to direct wind.

What I can't decide on is securing the corner posts. Options I've got so far:

Metal fence post spikes - in theory no digging but seem to be a loved or hated product when Googling. Cost about £7 each, so £42
Concrete in supports - Screwfix - £39 plus concrete
Dig holes and use Postcrete. Relatively quick but makes the inevitable job of digging out the concrete once the posts rot through a pain. Wins on price at £27 (£4.50 a bag from Wickes)
Fence fins - http://www.fencefins.com/ - about £10 each, so around £60 for the job. Hadn't seem them before I was Googling today though.

Thoughts or other options?

#Chri5# · 19 Sep 2017 at 14:41

Cheers folks. Pre-grooved fence posts seem to be odd sizes & quite expensive, so don't mind screwing the laths onto the posts. Also means I don't have to buy different posts or corners or the middle posts (middle posts will need three slots).

#Chri5# · 20 Sep 2017 at 08:50

I can get 75x75 fence posts + roofing laths from my local timber yard for about £5+VAT each, so cheaper than concrete (or at least any I've found). Also means I can easily cut the posts to my length.

Knocked up a plan in Sketchup

The different size boards on the right end were to see the difference in quantities required if I could get 22x300. However, both local yards only stock 22x200 so I'll use them.

I plan to build a roof - simple flat framework from 25x50, hinged on the back posts using T-hinges and then feather edge on the top. Back being higher than the front gives a natural slope for the rain to run off.

I might also leave some air circulation space between the boards, though want to get more warmth in the piles than our current open setup as the compost we've had out of those seems to bring a lot of weeds.

#Chri5# · 20 Sep 2017 at 09:26

If you type "compost bin plans" into Google image search, you see open, closed, slatted, meshed, roof, no roof and more - everybody seems to have their own preference. I've seen carpet make a right mess once it rots down though, so don't like using that. Summer could leave the roof open but down in the winter to stop it getting too soggy.

The slats would just sit in the grooves, so can easily be lifted out for either turning into the next bin or emptying from the front.

#Chri5# · 20 Sep 2017 at 17:12

Cheers again - will think further on the roof. Usel - can explain using the threaded rod idea more? Not sure quite what you're getting at.

No scope to move the composting round the garden but we do mix up the contents. We already compost kitchen waste, waste paper along with assorted garden garden (I don't overload it with grass cutting though, a lot of them go into the garden wheelie bin).