So, finally got this Ender 3 Pro Setup.....

Trig

Trig

Trig

Soldato
Joined
18 Oct 2002
Posts
7,174
Location
Leicestershire
Anyone else here got one, I'm struggling with bed adhesion, I've done a few 3DBenchies so far and I wouldn't say any of them are perfect, only one has stuck to the bed properly, the others get to about 20 or so layers and then break away from the bed and start moving about.

Any profile tips or other suggestions?

Using ZIRO black PLA at the mo
 
Yeah I've seen a few videos that mention prit-stik type glues on the bed, seems a bit counter intuitive no, if you're spot on with the temps and nozzle/bed distance then surely this isn't needed?

I'm still printing 3DBenchy's at the mo to get things sorted, I've got a bit of an artifact on the bow now which I think might be cooling, and a seam down the left side, I'm going to print again using the same profile settings but rotate by 180 to see if the artefact follows the bow or is less noticeable on the rear of the Benchy where the small text is..
 
I've adjusted the nozzle to bed height and its a lot better now, I also rotated the Benchy and now the seam is on one of the back corners and the artifact I was getting on the bow has gone, so looking at a different duct to print to direct air from the fans to aid cooling.

I was thinking about changing bed as this one doesnt appear even over the whole surface, which glass would solve as its not flexible, on the bottom of the Benchy I'm getting a small amount of smush on the lettering since I rotated the model, despite it still being in the middle of the bed.
 
It was fine with the model at its default rotation, I span it around on the bed to prove that the bow issue was cooling as it was on the side where the duct fan sits, but in spinning it the first layer is a touch smushed suggesting the bed itself isn't flat flat as where it prints the CT3D.xyz on the bottom you can see the second layer is touching the bed now.
It could be filament or bed temp giving a bit more sagging/smushing on that second layer, uneven bed temp, I'll tweak it a touch and see what it does, currently using 200oC/60oC@200mm/s

I might print another couple with a different colour filament so I can see the details a bit better than I can with the black as it looks like the bridging at the top of the cabin arch/windows.


I know I'm going to have to redo half of this again once the printer makes its way to its actual permanent position lol
 
So, I've printed a cooling duct, will see if the stringing is a cooling thing before I actually buy any new bits.
Theres also retraction and Z hop settings to possibly look at, I also have a new hotend and additional nozzles so can experiment a bit.

So far the list is different filaments, just different colours now I'm at the point where I'm 98% done, I printed an articulated chameleon yesterday, knocked it down to 75% scale and bar a bit of stringing all of the articulated parts articulate as they should.
I'm also gonna change the bed, I'm not sure if I'm going to go down the glass route or PEI route.
Bed thermal pad, for the rear of the actual hotplate, this is on the maybe list though.
Silicon hot end socks.

Probably going to print a fan bracket that allows me to swap the stock heatsink fan as well as incorporate ducting for the cooling fan on the side and maybe some sort of BLTouch fitting, but that is also on the maybe list, depending on how I get on with 3d printing in general I might buy another unit that's got these things added as stock and then either move the E3Pro on, or keep it for the odd bit and use the other as the main printer...


Anyone else got a buy list or thoughts on the above?
 
Started to strip the printer down yesterday as I was still getting loads of stringing, even after doing temp and retraction tests, boden tub is internally chewed up to buggery and the ends all melted mess, have ordered a MK8 hot end kit that comes with the tubing and a few other bits, hopefully that'll give me much better results.
 
Stringing issues sorted, got a glass bed and some feeler gauges, looks like my other bed I ordered was too high in the middle (not the sheet itself but the magnetic thingy it sticks too I'm guessing), glass bed solved that..

Got some other filaments to play with and going to print out some replacement parts for my Meshy case as I had one of the guys at work to print stuff but he printed them in some sandy colour, so going to do them again in black.

Have progressed past bed test prints, benchies and temp/retraction towers.

Have printer the Astronaut on the moon, an xbox controller/headphone bracket, got a few more random things on the microcard to print tomorrow and then I'll start looking into actual 3d modeling so I can remind stuff and make my own models.
 
I was using a bit of paper to start with but with the bed being higher in the middle and me having printed about 15 Benchies I just got bored of messing about so went glass and got some gauges..
 
Anyone looked at silent motherboards?
Got the printer doing a bit job (ooo er) behind me now and its annoyingly loud..

I don't get how the silent boards work tho, you change a motherboard and it makes the printer quieter..
Seems odd to me.
 
I've seen a few video comparisons between the silent and stock boards, its the same physical motors and only the board is changing, so the change in noise doesn't make sense to me, something to do with motor drivers..

Mine is literally 6 foot behind me and its annoying, I'm sat here now listening to music with my headphones on and I can clearly hear the printer..


Once I changed to a glass bed and got some feeler gauges I've had no issues with adhesion or edge curling, although I have also tweaked the standard profiles a bit to slow the first 4 layers, maybe you need a bit of tweaking as I've not gotten close to going to buy any pritstik...
 
Selling it?

As its in the office at home, and the missus works from home I don't think I'm going to get much choice, either than or it gets relocated to another room, but that's not really ideal.
 
Haha yeah, given how and why I ended up with a 3d printer in the first place, spending more than I paid for the printer in upgrades and other related toys is already going to overtake what I paid for the printer in the first place..
 
Well guess what, I already have a v4.2.2 board, so that v1.1.5, even though silent, would still be a step back..


So, what boards are people on here running that are on an Ender 3 Pro?
Theres the v4.2.7 from Creality, but then there's boards like the EKR from BigTreeTech...

Still, haha, not planning on going overboard on this thing but I'm starting to get the feeling that's not going to be possible as its my new thing to faff with...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom