Some Problems - Better Lens or Better Lighting?

Edrof

Edrof

Edrof

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Joined
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Hello all,

I've started doing some 'proper' photos of my wares (antique weaponry) and, while I'm finding photographing the hilts easy with nice results, I am struggling to get shots of the full item to come as out crisply. I'm using a Canon 5d Mark II with a 50mm 1:1.4 Canon prime lens and the cheapest lights imaginable.

Y3znUD7h.jpg

I find that having an F-stop high to ensure the whole sword is in focus (they average at a metre long) means I have to raise the ISO a lot and this leaves the image grainy:

9ACE2Feh.jpg

Should I be switching to a different sort of lens for the wide shots? Or is the issue my lighting? I'm very new to photography and I don't know much so thanks for any help.

Matt
 
Use a tripod then you'll be able to extend the depth of field to show the whole sword in focus and keep the shutter open without any shake or requirement to increase the iso up so that there's grain.
 
footman said:
You could always investigate focus
https://digital-photography-school.com/a-beginners-guide-to-focus-stacking/
Click to expand...

That's new to me, thanks!

Pringle W said:
Use a tripod then you'll be able to extend the depth of field to show the whole sword in focus and keep the shutter open without any shake or requirement to increase the iso up so that there's grain.
Click to expand...

I do use one now and it makes a huge difference. Before, I'd have to take about ten shots for one to be crisp but now it's two or three at the most.
 
Are you using self timer or a remote as you should be able to get sharp shots first go using a tripod. If you don't want to be taking shed loads of images and using software to focus stack, the alternative method is using a tilt and shift lens. (TS-E in canon speak, like the Canon TS-E 45mm f/2.8) You can shift the plane of focus to get sharp images at much wider apertures. (using the Scheimpflug principle) The obvious catch is that these lenses are costly, even when buying used, you need to learn how to use them and they are manual focus. They are a standard piece of kit for most professional product photographers as they are so versatile.
 
Thanks guys. I don't use a timer or anything - just the normal button. I feel like the wide images are in focus but grainy due to the higher ISO that I need to use when I make the F bigger, around 10, to get all of the sword in focus.

I have no idea what speedlights are (I'll Google it in a bit!) and I'm using £30 Esddi softbox lights from Amazon.

I suppose the other option is to stop putting the swords at an angle and instead put them directly perpendicular to the camera like this one I did (unedited), then I can still use a smaller F-stop:

CWt5qMTh.jpg
 
Edrof said:
I have no idea what speedlights are (I'll Google it in a bit!) and I'm using £30 Esddi softbox lights from Amazon.
Click to expand...
Speedlights = flash. Something along the lines of what you can find in the Godox range (for Canon in your case) would be of interest, coupled with a (strip) softbox for optimum results, or bounce cards (even a white wall), you could try bouncing it at first come to think of it. Would recommend a tripod regardless of whether you opt for a speedlight or not. If no tripod, consider placing the camera on something stationary (table, chair, pile of books etc) and using the self timer to avoid any motion blur.
 
i know nothing said:
Speedlights = flash. Something along the lines of what you can find in the Godox range (for Canon in your case) would be of interest, coupled with a (strip) softbox for optimum results, or bounce cards (even a white wall), you could try bouncing it at first come to think of it. Would recommend a tripod regardless of whether you opt for a speedlight or not. If no tripod, consider placing the camera on something stationary (table, chair, pile of books etc) and using the self timer to avoid any motion blur.
Click to expand...

Thank you. I've got a tripod arriving (I borrowed the last one) and I've made up a couple of white surfaces to bounce light around. I also bought two crazily powerful work lights that I now bounce off the ceiling to fill the middles of the sword blades as that's usually where there is a dark patch from only having two main lights. I'll try the timer too - would it really make that much of a difference even on a tripod?
 
Edrof said:
I'll try the timer too - would it really make that much of a difference even on a tripod?
Click to expand...

The short answer is yes.

The long answer is still yes just not so definitive though. There's a number of factors to how much movement actually effects the final shot - total shutter time, aperture, lighting, distance of object that is the focal point etc. You can really tighten down a camera on a tripod but you can still get small movement in it. For really fast shutter speeds, similar to hand held, small movements aren't the end of the world. Any movement, even tiny movements, will cause blurriness and ghosting on long exposures. Taking to extremes, in some astrophotography even the shutter opening and closing is enough to shake the camera and cause some blurriness to the photo.

Remotes are a good way around this problem but if you don't have one then the timer is a great way round it. Click the button, start the timer and then you don't need to touch the camera so no chance of it moving. It somewhat comes down to spend the time taking multiple shots or wait the 10 seconds for the time but get a good shot the first time.
 
Edrof said:
Thanks guys. I don't use a timer or anything - just the normal button. I feel like the wide images are in focus but grainy due to the higher ISO that I need to use when I make the F bigger, around 10, to get all of the sword in focus.
CWt5qMTh.jpg
Click to expand...
As already mentioned - If you're using a tripod then you don't need to increase the ISO above 100.
Setup the shot: camera setting to 'Aperture' mode, set the aperture value you need, ISO 100, the camera will choose the appropriate shutter speed (long). Set the self timer to 2 seconds, press the shutter button and you get a nice image :)
 
The above covers the points well. The only thing I'll add is thinking about the composure of your shots. Take for example the 1st picture. If all that sword was in focus, it'd be a ruddy boring image. The depth of field you have in that 1st shot actually works really well in drawing the eye to detail of the hilt and handle. You just wouldn't get that when its all in focus.

The shots where the sword is side on rest on the book is great having the whole sword in focus and its in a nice setting, but as an overall image, it feels a little flat and too similarly lit. You need to draw the eye into the object, make it stand out against whats around it. There is a shed load of youtube videos on still life / product photography which might help you out.

good luck. they look interesting.
 
This is all brilliant, thank you all for sharing and being patient with me! If it's okay, I will update the thread now and then as inevitable further questions arise.
 
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