Some questions on water cooling

[TFU] Thegoon84

[TFU] Thegoon84

[TFU] Thegoon84

Soldato
Joined
17 Jun 2009
Posts
7,089
Location
Swansea
Ok well Santa Clause is not far off doing his rounds, i'm pretty sure i have been a good boy this year, so i'm going to start in the world of water cooling.

I'm going to build my own water loop with the TJ07 case. with the following:

* CPU 775 block
* PUMP
* RADIATOR
* RESERVOIR

Other:
* TUBING
* COILDS
* BLUE LIQUID
* BARBS
* FANS

I have a few questions, i'd be extremely grateful if the fine OCUK community could answer them.

I currently have a q6600 system, later next year I am going to upgrade to i7 system, so I want to check it works on my current system b4 risking an expensive system…. I know i will need to change the CPU block so chill out haha.

Here goes:

1) Can i mix and match the above, or do i need to buy compatible components. For example: if I bought a 775socket mobo, I’d need to buy a 775 chip…. Is that the same with the above.


2) When I use the PSU jump cable on the 24 pin to start the water cooling system only, will I just need to flick the main’s on and the water cooling system will start? Could some1 explain a little bit better how the “U”-shaped piece of wire works that needs to be connected to the green and black cable on the 24-pin mobo power connection. I kind of get what it means, just want sum1 to confirm.


3) How do I empty water out of the system if I ever wanted to.


4) Do the fan’s come with a radiator or will I need to buy them.


5) Could any1 send me in the direction of sum cool reservoir that will look cool at the front of the case (OCUK LINKS ONLY I KNOW)

6) I might add questions as I go on, I intend to post all pictures up of stage by stage.
 
Sure. In order, and resisting the urge to correct your spelling,

1/ Block needs a mounting bracket for the board. The ek supreme lt will fit 775, 1366 or the new P55 boards. The ek supreme however would need a new bracket. You don't need a whole new cpu block, my ek has seen an am2+, 775 and a 1366 system.

2/ The pus powers on if the green is connected to a black. When you push the power button on a case, the board makes and then maintains this connection. When you stick a wire into it, it will stay on until the wire is removed or comes loose. Don't worry about electrocuting yourself on the wire.

3/ If you're cunning, you fit a drain line (A T piece with a bit of tube coming off the middle and a valve/plug on the end) at the lowest point in the loop and most water leaves through this. Otherwise you get to turn it upside down, shake it, turn the pump on, swear a bit and generally get water on the floor.

4/ No, they don't. This lets you pick the fans that are appropriate for your usage and for the chosen radiator.

5/ sum cool res? I'm not going to, I think water cooling for aesthetics is daft.

6/ This isn't a question.

You don't really want blue liquid, you want blue tubes with distilled water running down them. If you must then spend £20 on feser, learn from this mistake and end up using distilled anyway. I didn't take peoples advice on this so understand if you don't either.

You can fit a quad and a double radiator in the base alongside the psu, the brackets for doing so are readily available online. This is a cleaner approach as then psu and all radiators are out of sight in the base, and it keeps the centre of mass of the system low.

Cheers
 
Thanks for that,

Few questions,

I dont really understand what you ment by "distilled water" could you explain what you mean by this if its not to much trouble. I really want to use clear tube's with blue liquid, this months custom PC had 1ltr of Feser ONE UV blue coolant from www.CANTSAY.com lol?

What i ment by "cool reservoir" was like a nice digital display unit with liquid temps etc etc, i am purely going for a quieter more overclockable CPU... However i'm also looking to make my PC look extremely cool and have the challenge of building my first water loop.

Also will i need a bigger PSU, or does it use very little extra power?
 
Oh and b4 i forget, a big question wanted to ask... do i need to be looking at pump for:

Voltage
Power Input
Max. Delivery Rate ?

Also:

when you say about a single, quad etc.... is 120mm a single water loop and a 240mm a double water loop meaning i could run the other in to the GPU for example?

What could i do with this:

Swiftech 2 x 120mm Stackable Radiator : MCR220-QPSTACK @ £54.
The MCR220-QP (Quiet Power) series are extreme-duty liquid-to-air heat exchangers designed to be used with dual 120mm fans, and specifically engineered for high-end liquid cooled Personal Computers.
They are the result of months of research and development focused on optimizing thermal performance and audible noise characteristics with low to medium airflow types of fans.
The MCR220-QP Stackable radiator uses the "classic" body of the MCR220 series, the upper features two inlet and outlet ports opposite to each other, thus allowing to stack radiators together.
This is the perfect upgrade for existing owners of MCR220-QP radiators in search of Extreme performance...

Specification
Dimensions: 11.2 x 5 x 1.3", 284 x 128 x 34mm
2-pass, single row construction
Brass body and tubes, louvered copper fins
M3.5 threaded fan and case-mounting holes
Color: Black
Included four ultra short 1/2" fittings
 
Last edited:
Distilled water? The main point is you buy it for about 60p a litre, it's a nonconductive as feser, and with something antimicrobial in it no algae grow. It's also a better heat conductor. And when you spill it on the floor you don't care so much, since it just evaporates. If you don't know what distilled means, Google is your friend.

As I said, you're welcome to make that mistake. I wish you luck with the gunk that starts to fill up your blocks as the dye is filtered out.

A thermometer is the way to go for liquid temperatures if you really must know what they are, I'm happy not knowing. Can get them set into a plug which screws into the tubing/reservoir/etc and connects to a little lcd display. Get a reservoir if you want one, but Id want one built to be reliable rather than built to fit in the optical bay looking pretty. It's the most likely part of the loop to leak. I don't trust the dirt cheap ones, and performance is worse than a T line anyway.

The pump uses about 20W. No, you don't need a new psu.

It depends on the loop. However the standard answer is that you want Laing written on it, whether the DDC or D5 doesn't really matter. I like the former.

@Bulldog, as far as I can tell 'custom water' means the person bought the pieces ready made and stuck them together. Passive, as in no fans, watercooling is a lot harder to do as it needs much more surface area. Given who's asking, you definitely want fans attached to the radiators. shadowscotland has a passive copper loop, but he cares more about noise than about overclocking.
 
JonJ678 said:
1/ Block needs a mounting bracket for the board. The EK Supreme LT will fit 775, 1366 or the new P55 boards. The EK Supreme however would need a new bracket. You don't need a whole new cpu block, my EK has seen an am2+, 775 and a 1366 system.
Click to expand...

Resisting the temptation to send you a CAPS key;)

You have a Rev. I Supreme. The ones made for the last 4 months or so (Rev. II) have had the same 'Universal' bracket as the LT so it will fit anything.
 
JonJ678 said:
Distilled water? The main point is you buy it for about 60p a litre, it's a nonconductive as feser, and with something antimicrobial in it no algae grow. It's also a better heat conductor. And when you spill it on the floor you don't care so much, since it just evaporates. If you don't know what distilled means, Google is your friend.
Click to expand...

You won't get distilled water for 60p/litre - more like £4 per litre if you can find it in a Chemist shop or something. You're thinking of deionised water.
 
Ah, I'm no so good at capitalising proper nouns. I agree with that. Not that good at starting sentences with capitals either.

Deionised vs distilled isn't that big a distinction in terms of the end product, but you're quite correct. The bottles I have read deionised.

Going to tell the OP anything while you're here?

I want to put :p somewhere but am unsure where.
 
hi i have the full spec for going water in a tjo7 with all the parts you would need,check out chillen the guys, there will help you spec a wc kit.but to give you a idea what you need...

Thermochill PA120.4 in base
Quad Rad Bracket
Watercool Heatkiller 1366 Copper
Watercool Heatkiller 1366 Backplate
masterkleer 7/16" Tubing
Laing DDC 18w Pump / Swiftech
EK-DDC X-TOP Rev.2 Acetal
EK 150 Res
Silver Kill coil
Distilled Water
Barbs
 
Last edited:
Yeah, that would do it. Pump is overspecified and better performance could be had from a T line or the combined res/tops for the ddc, but otherwise that's sound. What fans?
 
yer i did say it was a starting point :) i have the full spec, i just did the above from what i started out with..the fans i would use are these 120mm Enermax UCCL12 Cluster TWISTER Fan (M.B.T) Veri Speed, White LED (on/off) inc Rubber A/V Plugs very good fans and also very quite and look really nice come in all colours as well,also i went for the combined res/tops for the ddc..
 
Yeah, they're good fans. Don't see them very often though, do you have a photo of the case? Since the OP is looking at basically the same system it would be a nice thing to put up.
 
well i choose the fans cos i have been chattiing to a few guys who are in the know on wc and they all say they are great,i don,t have pics at the mo as i,m just doing mine myself and still waiting on some parts,but i have a full build project up very soon :)
 
Would just add that the watercooling case gallery is a good place to go for loop possabilities. And DDC pro with res/top is more that enought for a two block plus PA loop
And thanks for the mention btw :)

Other advise to some one setting up first loop, is always use barbs, much more forgiving and less hassle.
Oh and read the sticky + at least two other guides
 
Just my $0.0.2.

A 120.4 is a really expensive ridiculously large radiator and only justified if you're cooling dual gpus as well as nb/sb/mosfets and cpu.

I have a 120.1 BIX cooling a Q6600 (3.2GHz, 100% full load 24/7) quite happily.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom