Something a bit different! Model Power Boating. RC Catamaran build thread.

You can get that exact issue from a loss of signal. If the connection goes they can just loose control at full throttle. Have you checked your batteries?
it wasn't signal loss, well I don't think so anyway. When I got to the boat the throttle servo was in the right position, but the linkage wasn't connected. So it had become physically disconnected. I still had a full connection to the boat.

Also, I do have failsafes programmed in, so if it loses a signal connection and doesn't regain it it will/should shut the boat down.
 
Fibreglassed in ply bulk head at the rear of the boat. Full fibreglass boat.
About 15mm wide x 5mm deep black foam tape and a bolted down perspex lid, which was about 5mm.
Never in any test did a drop get through though, so annoying lol.
Sounds like condensation build up to me. Bloody frustrating though!
 
Haha, nice one. A bit of damage never does any harm. I think they look better once they're "worn in" a bit anyway.
"Battle damage" :D

My first comment when I brought it back to the jetti to the small crowd of regulars was "...well I am glad I didn't paint it first" :D
 
Ffs we were only joking when we said we're only following to see when it crashes and sinks!

To be fair, it all adds to the log/story... You'll look back and there will be much chortling. Bad luck!
Already chortling buddy :D - as said. It's just part of the fun and the hobby! If you can't handle the bit when it crashes then this hobby isn't for you!
 
So, if it fails, it fails open - that doesn't sound safe from a critical failure point of view (FMEA)?
Can that linkage be changed, so it's sprung closed and the linkage forces it open - so if there's a problem with the linkage or the signal, it snaps closed instead of open?

Sorry I could not get back to this sooner, I was travelling.

Failsafe is not the correct word here. It is not designed to fail open. The carb barrel is/was (since removed) spring loaded. Only lightly, I believe the idea is for the spring to reduce any resistance that could be met when opening the carb. It is a competition racing engine afterall, its goal is to go as quick as possible.

What happened was, the physical link between the servo and the carb detached (picture below of said link)

vvmyEaf.jpg

And my guess from here is the vibration from the boat moving and engine running was enough to jolt the carb and it sprung open.

Design changed going forward, I am going to thread that metal arm and attach it like it is on the right hand side (hindsight tells me I should have done this in the first place :rolleyes:) so it cannot detach. Also, I already have electronic failsafes programmed into the servos, should it lose signal from the transmitter, which is to snap the carb closed to choke the engine and stop it. Also, the spring has since been removed. I had no idea it could be removed until after the crash and someone at the lake told me it could be done.
 
Hehe its all good :D

I agree its a bit mental, but then again, this whole engine and setup is a bit mental. :D
 
BTW would anyone be interested in the final part of the build log? Despite knowing the end result? :D

Happy to do so if there is interest :) - I took photos during all of it so I can share.

EDIT: Considering how much Power Boating is planned for next year including potential competition racing I can keep this thread going as and when there is anything to share surrounding the whole topic.

For example, I have another boat which we began painting last week. I can share it all :)
 
Last edited:
Alright so here is the final build log post. Obviously you know the current state of the boat but there was interest to get the rest of the build posted and generally I will fill this thread with RC Boating stuff as and when it comes up. I've got my next flight on Jan 23rd so there will be a lot more content toward the end of Jan (hopefully with a video of it this time :D) and somewhere between now and then there will be info posted about the repair and the progress of that as well.

So, what was left on the build. I needed to finish the electronics off. You can see in the above photo of the radio box there are 2 pieces of wood fixed in place. This is a selfmade cradle for the battery. The battery I fitted is a 3000mah LiFE 6.6v battery. Now, LiFE & LiPO batteries should be treated like a priceless vase, with care and delicacy. So I put the wood in there and fixed them in place and then lined the bottom of the box between the wood with bubble wrap. This gave me a nice "snug" fit to stop the battery from rattling around inside the box.

IMG-20191112-WA0025.jpg


I also moved the receiver to make it more visible and give a cleaner install. Not necessary, but preferred :) - also the receiver has a red/green light for power & connectivity. With it facing up I can give a quick glance to confirm its powered on and connected to the transmitter before the boat is thrown in the water.

Also I fitted the magnet for the RPM Sensor. I have full telemetry setup in this boat, so RPM, Engine Temp & Battery Voltage. The RPM sensor involves fitting a tiny magnet to the flywheel, including drilling a hole. The specs for the hole is 1.4-1.7mm deep and 4.1mm wide. Using a bench pillar drill, I did exactly that.

IMG-20191115-WA0008.jpg


And then the magnet fitted

IMG-20191115-WA0006.jpg


Stuck this in with 60min epoxy glue. After it hit the bank and screamed for 20 seconds while we ran to the boat the magnet was still int he flywheel, so clearly it stuck! Also I did not know you could buy a drill bit which is 4.1mm! :eek: The sensor then needed to be fitted within 1-2mm infront of the magnet. I made a small mount for it out of ply, then secured it to the bottom of the boat infront of the flywheel & magnet. I don't have any photos of it but we did spin the engine over and got a reading to test it (its hella cool as well!)

Next up was the plumbing

IMG-20191113-WA0020.jpg


You can see the 2 fuel tanks in there and then the float chamber. I don't think I mentioned previously in the thread how the fuel tanks are configured, so each tank has 3 ports. You have the pickup, fill, and air vent. The tanks are configured so the right tank (looking at it from the angle we see above) empties first then the left, this is intentional. Due to the torque of the engine/propeller the boat will want to favour the right side slightly, so you want to reduce weight from the right first.

The ports are configured as followed:

Right tank. Vent port has a pipe coming from the exhaust to put pressure in the tank, this forces fuel through the system. You have the fill port which is connected to an additional port on the side of the boat for easy access filling, then the pickup is connected to the fill port on the LEFT tank.

Left tank. We already discussed the fill, so the vent goes to another port on the side of the boat and is only opened for filling the boat to allow air to breathe out, otherwise its sealed off. Then the pickup goes to the float chamber, from the float chamber to the carb. The float chamber (forgot if its already mentioned) is to maintain a constant fuel/air pressure to the engine for consistent running regardless of the fuel level.

You can see the front top vents had to be temporarily unbolted due to the tight fit of the piping, that was a right pig to do!

More piping

20191113_111113.jpg


20191112_114942.jpg


We're there!

20191115_182031.jpg


20191113_160634.jpg


Right, lets try to explain some of this spaghetti junction :D

The thicker clearer pipe is water pipe. The rudder has 2 water pickup ports machined into it. One goes to the engine head, then comes out to an outlet on the side. Then the other feeds the manifold watercooling collar, which goes onto the exhaust, then from the exhaust to a side outlet. Blue pipe off the exhaust is for the fuel tank pressure as just mentioned. The red & blue pipe you see on the left in the pic go to the fill & breather ports next to the water outlets (somehow I don't have a photo of those, which is annoying as they are very smart!

EDIT: Tell a lie, right here. On the side of the boat, those 4 silver looking dots.

IMG-20191116-WA0011.jpeg


Outside of the plumbing I fitted the floatation (red squidgey pool noodles as seen above) - bolted the radio box into place and exhaust in as well.

Last job, to fit the lid. Measure twice, cut once!
20191113_155417.jpg


Et voila!

IMG-20191113-WA0044.jpg


That was pretty much it, afterwards....well, you know the rest :p

Thanks for reading :)
 
Happy New Year everyone!

I have been back in the UK since the 28th and have been non stop in the shed & workshop. After discussing with Dad during December, it just wasn't looking likely he would have the time to repair the boat, and I managed to find a decent deal on some flights for only 140eur, normally at this time of year you're looking between 350-500 (and no that isn't an exageration) so I jumped at the opportunity and came over with the one goal of getting the boat repaired and sailable, anything else was a bonus...and boy have we achieved it!

So lets resume, for those joining now...after putting 80hours of labour in the boat, on its maiden voyage it hit the side of the lake at full speed :p :D - some post crash investigation and it turned out I had made 2 small silly errors which led to this little mishap, but its the way the hobby goes. If you cannot handle this side of it...you shouldn't be involved. Its an expensive past time which isn't a "spend once then forget" type either.

When the boat hit the bank the fuel tanks became unstuck and shot forward with such force they split the front of the boat open at the join, this was the main bulk of the damage. Other damage involved one of the spontoons taking a lot of the force and bending/cracking, and then the bottom of the hull received a lot of hairline cracks and lumps taken out of the spontoon moulds. Here is what it looked like.

20191116_162258.jpg


20191116_162426.jpg


20191116_162911.jpg


IMG-20191116-WA0029.jpeg


JLE80680.jpg


JLE80682.jpg


JLE80683.jpg


JLE80684.jpg



JLE80685.jpg


JLE80687.jpg


----

First step was to get the hull back to 1 piece and not split like a banana at the front :D - I mixed up a large batch of 60 minute epoxy glue and smothered the front end where it had come apart then clamp it shut while the glue set. We knew when clamping it together with our hands that the split was (for the most part) very clean.

Lots of epoxy and some peg clamps later...

JLE80688.jpg



JLE80689.jpg


(the masking tape is there to give the peg clamps something to grip onto)

I left this for a couple of hours to harden and set then removed the peg clamps and put a lot of wide masking tape on as tight as I could in their place to keep the pressure on. I wanted to leave this overnight but had more work to do and these pegs were prone to pinging off if disturbed.

The next step was to reinforce the inside on the join itself. I had bought some fibreglass cloth and special resin (supplied by hull manufacturer for repairs) - the plan was to cut a strip of cloth and to resin it to the inside join along the front where it split.

As you can imagine from the pics, getting to that inside join at the front is very very awkward, you can't reach there with your hands, especially the ends of the spontoons. So I made a tool...

JLE80691.jpg


:D

Grabbed a 1m piece of dowel, masked an old paintbrush onto the end of it. From here I rested the boat on its nose and rear end against a stool to give me a decent angle.

JLE80692.jpg


It worked!

20191228_152147.jpg


20191228_152202.jpg


20191228_152207.jpg


End result

JLE80694.jpg


I also took the remaining resin and poured it into the ends of the spontoons and middle point to give puddles of the stuff. With the idea that it would really solidfy the ends of the boat, which arguably need to be one of the strongest points.

Now left to dry :D

IMG-20191228-WA0026.jpg


This stuff sets after about 40-60 minutes and we were approaching the end of the day (also I had been up since 3am for my flight so getting tired) - we applied putty to the damage on the body work on the underneath then brought the boat indoors to the warm to dry overnight.

20191228_183433(0).jpg


The next day, removed masking tape annnd...

IMG-20191229-WA0005.jpeg


JLE90697.jpg


JLE90698.jpg


JLE90699.jpg


JLE90701.jpg


Et voila! :D

At this point we decided this is actually a good time to finish the bodywork and get it painted. So off to the workshop it is!

First steps was to get the filler/putty sanded down to a smooth finish. This took hours and I got absolutely covered in dust :)

20191229_112404.jpg


20191229_112408.jpg


20191229_112412.jpg


After these were made smooth and the rest of the hull was flattened off that was enough for day.

The next day I got it in the paint booth and applied a couple of primer coats then guide coat.

IMG-20191230-WA0007.jpg


IMG-20191230-WA0009.jpg


20191230_114842.jpg


(it is also worth noting that I am simultaneously working on/painting another boat, this is the one in the video posted previously)

20191230_122657.jpg


20191230_122839.jpg


So the paint booth is busy :D

Had to leave this for 24hrs before doing anything else.

The next day was flattening the guide coat & primer to remove any inperfections in the hull to get it as smooth as possible. The process is the same for both hulls from this point onwards so I'll share photos of both.

IMG-20191231-WA0003.jpg

20191231_110426.jpg


20191231_110440.jpg


20191231_110446.jpg


20191231_130252.jpg


20191231_130302.jpg


Later that day I primered and guide coated the top halfs of both (but oddly didn't take any photos! very strange for me)

This brings us to yesterday. Time to get some colour on :D - Also I used line tape & newspaper to mask the lids to make it look like there is a cockpit - paint scheme for these boats is black underneath then Triumph Speed Triple Green on the top. Black first! I used newspaper and masking tape to create a skirt to stop overspray

20200101_141524.jpg


20200101_141528.jpg


Both lids were painted at the same time as the Orion (bigger boat)

20200101_144250.jpg


20200101_144254.jpg


20200101_144225(0).jpg


20200101_144231.jpg


Not bad considering where it was just under a week ago :D (me = super proud here)

Sprint Cat was next...

20200101_152125.jpg


And here they both are, drying.

20200101_153017.jpg


20200101_153022.jpg


20200101_153028.jpg


And the last (for now) we removed the line tape and newspaper from the lids. Here is how they currently look.

20200102_112116.jpg



At some point today or tomorrow I will reverse the tape and newspaper to cover the black parts so it can be sprayed green.

Thats it for now! I am back to work at the minute until Saturday, so thats when we will go over and get the green on the top of both of them, then lacquer and left for 2 weeks. I fly home on Sunday until the 23rd and we don't own a painting oven so the lacquer will need this long to go hard.

More to come on Saturday when the boats are green :D

Thanks for reading!
 
What's the idea with the stepping (going across the way.....beam) on the hulls?
Sorry if it's been asked already as I havnt read through the whole thread.
I'm well acquainted with boat hulls but not rc boats, surely they just cause turbulence?
Hey Marko,

My understanding of them is that they cause bubbles to form as it allows air to pass through, which generates lift. Which help stop it getting too wet and bogged down when accelerating in a straight line. Also, I have only seen these steps on catamaran style hulls and google imaging Catamaran Racing Boats you can see the steps on the full size ones :)
 
Correct and furthering your theory, when looking for those steps I only see them on light racing hulls :)

On these you have to be careful especially with the rudder position. Generally you want it as close to the prop as possible but infront of it as that is in theory, where the water is "cleanest" that hits it to give the best results. I can confirm on the smaller boat pictured above at full speed (~45mph) I can snap the rudder 100% in either direction and the boat turns like its on rails.

Glad you have enjoyed the thread. :) - Always up for more discussion on this, this hobby is somewhat of a passion!
 
Build log update! :)

This is the last one for a couple of weeks now. I go back to Portugal today, and I am back on the 23rd of Jan. So there won't be any further progress until then.

However...since the last update. Here is what has happened.

First I masked up the black on the lids to get them ready to be base coated and colour applied

IMG-20200103-WA0008.jpg


Afterwards. I finished prepping the top of the Orion & Sprint Cat then masked/newspapered the bottom of them to protect from overspray.

20200103_145622.jpg


20200103_145625.jpg


(its really something to think that at the time this was taken, it was 1 week before that the boat was cracked, split and generally looking sorry for itself!)

20200103_155151.jpg


Sprint Cat

20200103_161735.jpg


Before putting the green on, it needs a white base coat...so I sprayed that on. Generally pretty happy with the result, I got the Orion perfect but had some small runs on the Sprint Cat, so had to sort those out the next day once it was dry.

20200103_164226.jpg


20200103_164238.jpg


20200103_165850.jpg


20200103_165855.jpg


These were left overnight, then the next day I had a few bit of dirt & grit in both which needed flattening off (and the runs in the Sprint Cat) then gave them light top coat just to finish off. (Couple of pics through the spy hole in the paint booth)

IMG-20200104-WA0002.jpg


IMG-20200104-WA0003.jpg


Now its time for the exciting bit!

20200104_094147.jpg


:D

Annnd...tadah!

IMG-20200104-WA0011.jpg


20200104_101432.jpg


20200104_101442.jpg



Sprint Cat & Lids

20200104_101931.jpg


20200104_101936.jpg


IMG-20200104-WA0013.jpg


2 coats and top dust coat then left to dry. Afterwards we removed the tape from the lids and this is the end result.

20200104_125649.jpg


20200104_125700.jpg


20200104_125723.jpg


20200104_125732.jpg


:D

Final step now was to lacquer then get them indoors in the warmth to harden for a couple of weeks until I am back.

20200105_091128.jpg


20200105_091601.jpg


Thats it!

What a week its been, so much time and effort put in and now look where we are :D

When I come back I will need to rub down the lacquer in places on both boats where there is some grit/dirt caught in it and some runs and that will be all the body work completely finished then. Reassemble and back to the lake! So in 2-3 weeks, this is going in the water again :D
 
As cool as an all black 007 vibe would be. It would be hard to see on the water...something you don't want!


I do know a guy who years ago painted his boats black but also kept complaining that everyone kept hitting them! Since he changed to painting them pink instead he has not had this problem. :-)
 
Back in the UK (since Thursday!) And I have been making progress but little time to post an update. Just on the train now so I'll post a quick note now and then some pictures later on.

On Thursday as soon as I landed I got to work on the Orion. I proceeded with getting the internals back in it as the body work still had outstanding things that were needed but it was waiting for Dad to get back from a trip as I had never flat and polished anything before so I didn't know how. I needed to be taught!

So on Thursday I got the fuel tanks secured back in and changed the mounting method. They should be more secure now. After that the engine was fitted then the throttle and fuel mixture servos connected. This time with metal threaded rods so you couldn't pull it apart even if you tried. That's that fail point from before fixed :)

After that I refitted the temperature and RPM sensors. Then fitted the exhaust manifold. Internally, this is about as far as I can go at this point. And I was busy until Monday so had to stop here.

Monday came and began rubbing out the few lacquer runs that had formed and removing the grit which had got stuck in it while drying. This involved going over it with wet & dry 1000, then 1500 then 2000. Then eventually using a DA Polisher with coarse, then fine, then dry buffer and eventually a wax polish. I was working on this flat out from 8:30am until 5pm on Monday then finished off this morning which took a couple of hours with the end result being pretty spectacular. I am very happy with it :) - this is all the body work done now. Oh and the vents were painted black and lacquered as well.

So this brings us up to date and here is what's left:

- fit the rudder and reconnect to the servo
- fit the rear grab handle
- fit the water outlet and filler ports
- fit the air vents
- water tubing
- apply stickers and rubber edging strip
- fit the exhaust bracket + exhaust

Probably a full days work left but it's on the home stretch :)

Pics to follow tomorrow.
 
Some pics :)

Fuel tanks tucked in and piped up along with the catch tank.

IMG-20200123-WA0021.jpg


Replacement manifold and exhaust test fit.

IMG-20200123-WA0035.jpg


20200126_154016.jpg


I bought some stickers to go on it

IMG-20200123-WA0037.jpg


Here you can see the repaired and reinforced servo linkages to the carb and fuel mixture. Also refitted/repaired sensors as well.

20200126_165903.jpg


Then the long and exhausting flatten & polish work. Along with a video of Dad with the DA! (Excuse the singing :p :D) - its kinda scary to take wet & dry to your hard work which you were so proud of :eek:

20200127_104418.jpg


20200127_104411.jpg


Video - https://photos.app.goo.gl/nt3iQ8qLxqXoy9bd6

The end result though...

20200127_165236.jpg


IMG-20200128-WA0002.jpeg



20200127_165243.jpg



20200128_095458.jpg



20200128_095504.jpg


And back in the shed at home :D

IMG-20200128-WA0011.jpg


This is up to date on where it currently is :)

Should get a good few hours in tomorrow and be close to finishing...lets see :)
 
snip
Good luck, it's a thing of beauty physically and mechanically! Well done.


Hello Chris! Thanks for your post and interesting info regarding the the breaks in the hull. Also fascinating about your neighbour and I will take you up on that offer, should the need ever occur!

Update on today (pics later)

- fit the rudder and reconnect to the servo
- fit the rear grab handle
- fit the water outlet and filler ports

- fit the air vents
- water tubing
- apply stickers and rubber edging strip
- fit the exhaust bracket + exhaust

This lot is done. The to-do list is getting smaller :) - I suspect tomorrow it will be completely finished. :D - I must say, its looking impressive.

Sneak peek

IMG-20200129-WA0002.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom