Sound Proofing for Home Cinema
- Thread starter sunama
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DRZ said:
i think youve posted at cross purposes here, soundproofing his ceiling will make no difference to the room acoutics, acoustic treatments in the room will have no effect on the sound leaving it, 2 totally seperate things.
Bass traps can be made as little as 4" thick to control bass as low as 50hz, larger traps can be made with rockwool that will go that low but they need to be much bigger. If building a new ceiling, soffit traps are the way forward, bass absorption, with cable runs and lighting rigs, all in one tidy package.
Efficient control of reflections in a room can be achieved with relatively basic acoustic products, foams are fine for high freqs, though you wont get any bass absorption past 125hz without really going large ont he foam trap, a 4'x2' corner trap SHOULD get down below 100hz, but only if its solid, good quality acoustic foam, steer clear of some of the ebay foams, cushions are for sitting on, not putting on the walls.
How do you know the problem is there, will you be going up to your neighbours to see if noise comes through, before and afterwards ?????
I think you will struggle, high frequency will be easily absorbed by a thick layer of Rockwool. But bass travels and goes through anything. Perhaps 3 foot of concrete might help !!! or a Vacuum !!!
better off putting the money to a detached house !
Bass traps won't help, they don't stop the sound going around the building, only meant to stop modal resonance building in the room, it can still pass through the walls.
I've just built some panel and corner Bass traps.... bit disappointed to be honest hardly made a difference. Perhaps my room was OK to start with !!! Or you need insane high SPL for them to have any efficiency....
Just wait to till they go out
I think you will struggle, high frequency will be easily absorbed by a thick layer of Rockwool. But bass travels and goes through anything. Perhaps 3 foot of concrete might help !!! or a Vacuum !!!
better off putting the money to a detached house !
Bass traps won't help, they don't stop the sound going around the building, only meant to stop modal resonance building in the room, it can still pass through the walls.
I've just built some panel and corner Bass traps.... bit disappointed to be honest hardly made a difference. Perhaps my room was OK to start with !!! Or you need insane high SPL for them to have any efficiency....
Just wait to till they go out
matty said:
If the materials on the wall change, it will change the acoustics of the room. If he absorbs everything on the way out by lobbing some foam on the wall (fr example) he is going to deaden the room. That is what I was saying
9designs2 said:How do you know the problem is there, will you be going up to your neighbours to see if noise comes through, before and afterwards ?????
I think you will struggle, high frequency will be easily absorbed by a thick layer of Rockwool. But bass travels and goes through anything. Perhaps 3 foot of concrete might help !!! or a Vacuum !!!
better off putting the money to a detached house !
Bass traps won't help, they don't stop the sound going around the building, only meant to stop modal resonance building in the room, it can still pass through the walls.
I've just built some panel and corner Bass traps.... bit disappointed to be honest hardly made a difference. Perhaps my room was OK to start with !!! Or you need insane high SPL for them to have any efficiency....
Just wait to till they go out
stop the structure from resonating and you stop the sound transmission, *** trick is getting the LF resonance.
Whats your room dimensions and what size did you make your traps?
DRZ said:If the materials on the wall change, it will change the acoustics of the room. If he absorbs everything on the way out by lobbing some foam on the wall (fr example) he is going to deaden the room. That is what I was saying
tis true,
no worries, i read your post to mean that soundproof and it changes the room, sorted, lol
matty said:
But all structures will resonate at some point
Room size has along bay on one side so not easy to "map" but averaged out 16.5x12.5x8 feet.... at those figures I don't have a coincident modal frequency. But some grouping around 68 -70 Hz 130-140Hz is all "busy". From using a test disc, I found the room kicked off at around the 60Hz and 120-130 points....
So one panel trap at 1200-600 125mm deep, 12mm front mdf, 100 Rockwall, giving a nominal point of 57Hz, plus a diagonal corner trap similar size but 6mm mdf, higher nominal point due to 6mm mdf, but with much deeper, which will lower the point again and increase bandwidth.
I would say bass notes decay quicker, but doesn't stop the room "singing" on some heavy (poorly recorded ??) albums.....
But hey cost me about £50, and has been an interesting learning experience.... Maybe I need more of them, not that the wife would see it that way
9designs2 said:But all structures will resonate at some point
Room size has along bay on one side so not easy to "map" but averaged out 16.5x12.5x8 feet.... at those figures I don't have a coincident modal frequency. But some grouping around 68 -70 Hz 130-140Hz is all "busy". From using a test disc, I found the room kicked off at around the 60Hz and 120-130 points....
So one panel trap at 1200-600 125mm deep, 12mm front mdf, 100 Rockwall, giving a nominal point of 57Hz, plus a diagonal corner trap similar size but 6mm mdf, higher nominal point due to 6mm mdf, but with much deeper, which will lower the point again and increase bandwidth.
I would say bass notes decay quicker, but doesn't stop the room "singing" on some heavy (poorly recorded ??) albums.....
But hey cost me about £50, and has been an interesting learning experience.... Maybe I need more of them, not that the wife would see it that way
you need more trapping, generally we recommend 2 corners filled as a start off, if your doing DIY traps then fill floor to ceiling with rockwool(dense, but not really dense)make the face of it 2' wide and your on the way, or make more panel traps, if you have the money for commercial products tuned traps work better for targetting bass freqs than mdf/fiber 'broadband' devices, or if you have really deep pockets and like powder coated metal there are some awesome true broadband units out there.
To combat structural resonance lower the wall resonance as low as possible, the best material for doing this on a stud or with plasterboards is Green Glue, LF performance is excellent.
those chambers are horrid, so unnatural feeling
From what ive read Green Glue is excellent and providing u have 2 surfaces, to sandwich the GreenGlue its great.
But i did read someone elses comments on another forum and they stated that "weight" is very important. For example, lets say for example u r sound proofing a wall. The most important thing is to make use a material that has a lot of mass, like thick, heavy plasterboard and some sort of insulation (like mineral wool, or acoustic quilt). Then after u have done that, add green glue in between 2 sheets of plasterboard. This will give you the weight as well as the sound absorbing properties of GreenGlue.
Unfortunately, i am doing the ceiling and i have no desire to rip down the current ceiling. So, i will try and work with the suspended ceiling that i have in place already and see what i can achieve with that.
On a further note with mineral wool slabs; i tried to get a sample, but the guy said they dont have any spare bits lying around. Hence, without even seeing the product, i will have to make decision on which wool i will be buying - 6kg/sqm, 8kg/sqm or 10kg/sqm. I am erring towards 10kg/m with a thickness of 10cm. It will set me back £400 for the room i plan to lay it in.
But i did read someone elses comments on another forum and they stated that "weight" is very important. For example, lets say for example u r sound proofing a wall. The most important thing is to make use a material that has a lot of mass, like thick, heavy plasterboard and some sort of insulation (like mineral wool, or acoustic quilt). Then after u have done that, add green glue in between 2 sheets of plasterboard. This will give you the weight as well as the sound absorbing properties of GreenGlue.
Unfortunately, i am doing the ceiling and i have no desire to rip down the current ceiling. So, i will try and work with the suspended ceiling that i have in place already and see what i can achieve with that.
On a further note with mineral wool slabs; i tried to get a sample, but the guy said they dont have any spare bits lying around. Hence, without even seeing the product, i will have to make decision on which wool i will be buying - 6kg/sqm, 8kg/sqm or 10kg/sqm. I am erring towards 10kg/m with a thickness of 10cm. It will set me back £400 for the room i plan to lay it in.
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weight(or mass) adds to the structure, which in turn lowers its resonant frequency, a thick concrete wall will still resonate, you just wont know it, so the theory of adding mass is good, but how much do you add? audioalloy who make green glue had some technical papers on their website that deals with all these points, its worth a read even if you dont use the product, its very helpful
the other extreme of the dead room in the pictures before is this:
Blackbird Studios..bonkers but cool.
http://www.digidesign.com/digizine/dz_main.cfm?edition_id=101&navid=907
the other extreme of the dead room in the pictures before is this:
Blackbird Studios..bonkers but cool.
http://www.digidesign.com/digizine/dz_main.cfm?edition_id=101&navid=907