Sound proofing thread

I had an annoying rattle on the NSR door card of the Golf, so decided to pull out both rear door cards to de rattle.

Whilst out i lined the inside of the door card with flashing tape and some of the metalwork behind with tape and then refitted.

Ive not done to the boot yet but already there is a noticable difference, and the rattle on the nearside is gone (but ive started one on the off side)

will do the boot floor and boot lid in the next couple nights and be done with it
 
AshD93 said:
Incorrect.

I have a Peugeot 206 that I spent £80 fully deadening.

The difference is incredible. "Thuds" like a more expensive car and on the motorway, it's actually very quiet.

Arches, quarter panels and floor pan were best done followed by doors and boot lid. Didn't bother with the roof.
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NO you didn't

Fully deadened for £80. I spent nearly that on each door when building my system.:p
 
Placed some Dynamat on my boot floor, as it acts as a kind of resonating chamber in my car. Didn't make a massive difference, but eliminated a little of the drone from the rear.
 
I used flashing tape when I put new door speakers and a subwoofer in my ZS, it made a good difference to the sound quality and doors felt more 'solid'. I filled the boot with it too which stopped odd buzzing sounds. Never going to get away from the god awful wind and road noise in an MG though :D
 
Plastering high mass stuff like dynamat over every panel in sight really isn't a very efficient route to a quiet car.
If you have panel resonance and vibration, add some dynamat, flashing tape or whatever until it's gone.
If you have trim rattles, brace the offending part with foam. Adding (a small amount of) mass to it can also work if it is resonating under a specific condition e.g cruising on motorway at 3000rpm.
If you want to reduce general tyre/engine noise etc ideally you need a boundary to absorb sound, decoupled from the unibody. In many OEM applications this is achieved by a layer of foam/insulation beneath some ~4mm thick vinyl type material.

Don't bother spending mega bucks. When it comes to Dynamat et al the only thing that matters is how dense it is, and if it sticks.

Note: this advice changes slightly if you are working to optimise an audio install.

have a read of http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
 
Workmate of mine has used dynamat and lots of spray on foam type stuff in his e60, the difference is quite remarkable.

That said, he has his stereo setup (which is aftermarket with various amps & subs etc) so damn loud, I wonder why he felt the need to make the car itself quieter!!
 
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Been on motorway tonight. You can talk in the car at 70 80 without a raised voice at all which imo is greatfor a car on 201k and really lowered suspension
 
I've stripped and soundproofed the Mini. All of the front doors are dynamatted then covered with silent coat, same for the rear quarters and floor and the rear hatch is just dynamatted.

I'd love to say it made the car feel like a Bentley but I'd be lying. It does make a difference to the overall "feel" of the car but it's not a huge difference to overall noise, I still can hear plenty of tyre roar and stuff (and I deliberately chose quieter tyres too). By all means do it but don't expect miracles.
 
You need foam stuffer blocks, pads and fabric like jute then on dashboards and wheel housings things like vinyl layer mass damper layers on a soft backing to decouple panels from the cabin air, this will reduce to reduce airborne noise like tyre roar and other traffic. Dynamat dampens panels response to vibration and hence reduces structural borne noise when the panels resonate like a speaker. Hence it's not really needed all over a panel. This is the noise generated by things like engine vibration through the mounts or road noise through the suspension bushes.
 
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