Sugo, airflow and gaming.

Runbalk

Runbalk

Runbalk

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After reading the thread, http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=7535981#post7535981, I'm wondering if the Silverstone Sugo Evolution would be good enough to house a good gaming rig. I can't find any reviews which shows how good the airflow is - nor any examples of a good gaming rig that's stable, doesn't overheat and doesn't crash.

Also, in a Sugo Evo system where there's a PSU that has a bottom exhaust fan, would an HSF blowing air onto the CPU be better than if it was blowing air away from the CPU?
 
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Check this thread on another site , has a lot of info and covers the questions u asked and is what got me interested in the sugo's

Link

I beleave the complaints about airflow in the thread u linked are for the old sugo, the new sugo, the sugo evo has improved cooling.

Imo the sugo will be fine for a gaming rig, id make sure any mobo u get has good chipset cooling.
Theres lots of debates over cpu cooling in this case, from the benchmarks ive seen theres not really much in it tbh, whether it be nt06 passive/nt06 with slim fan blowing into psu or something like a blue orb or zalman flower.

I was looking at the NT06, but im not sure all that heat going through the psu is a good idea, so im gonna opt for a zalman or blue orb plus u get a lot of air pushed over the mobo with these :)
 
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Runbalk said:
After reading the thread, http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=7535981#post7535981, I'm wondering if the Silverstone Sugo Evolution would be good enough to house a good gaming rig. I can't find any reviews which shows how good the airflow is - nor any examples of a good gaming rig that's stable, doesn't overheat and doesn't crash.

Also, in a Sugo Evo system where there's a PSU that has a bottom exhaust fan, would an HSF blowing air onto the CPU be better than if it was blowing air away from the CPU?
Click to expand...

Built a Sugo Gaming rig yesterday, as I was saying in the thread its the best cooling SFF rig, Meansizzler is just being insane and running a HSF non passive.

Sugo Evo, no case fans running. TT Blue Orb II cooler, 2.8ghz 3700+ at 40deg load.

Says it all really, thats after 9 hours of running on non set AS5. The case can cool as well as anything else SFF, and beats most by miles.

I highly recommend them, and remember my temperature is without ANY case fans running, and its silent with the fan running at 950rpm.

Ok, update here, those temps listed now are a bit off, they have gone up by two when the AS5 has settled down, no idea why but its running hotter. Had to put a case fan on to nock the temps down again.
 
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You use MSN mate, just this second finnished modding mine, temps now thrashing my PC7+. :o

MSN in trust and under avatar if you like, the Sugo is currently my coolest PC, although near silent but for what I want its doing great.

Oh and I fogot to mention, both Sugo's cool brilliantly, the Evo is more suited to SLI though!

Easily handle anything you want to put into it if you think it through, designed the rig I am using in around 2 minutes, and its stunning. :D
 
I am very tempted by this case for an htpc/gaming rig.
Has to be wife friendly and kiddie tamper proof!
Is there any way to stealth the dvd drives or at least cover them up.Something that doesnt require too much skill for a klutz like me?
cheers
bobinski
 
Yewen said:
Easily handle anything you want to put into it if you think it through, designed the rig I am using in around 2 minutes, and its stunning. :D
Click to expand...

Try putting in a 130Watt Penitum D..., then tell me if you still agree with that statement of yours....I'd like ot know what Heatsink you owuld use, and how LOUD it is...Athlon X2's run pretty quite with 55 Degrees full load on stock heatsink, but put a pentium D in there with Stock Heatsink then you will be at 62 Degrees load and 45DB of NOISE!!!..., not a lot of Heatsinks that fit in that case to handle a Pentium D, not Tried the Zalman CNPS8000, but all the heat being blown around the motherboard can't be good for it, especially the voltage regulators...
 
I just finished building my sugo evo as well -

3ghz Pressie - Zalman CNPS8000
Asus mboard

3 * 80mm case fans (if I need)

Idle @ 31c 1400RPM cooler - silent
Load @ 52c 14000rpm cooler - surprise still silent!

You don't need to worry about the extra heat generated - the CNPS8000 just blows it all out of the ventilation holes all the way down the side of the SUGO - genuis! :D

If you put on the case fans it brings the temps down by a degree of two, but i've got Acousti dust proofs and they are completely silent as well.

All in all, the SUGO evo kicks butt, its quiet, small enough to hide but big enough to allow you a full upgrade ability if you want it..

Ditch the shuttle by the SUGO
 
meansizzler said:
Try putting in a 130Watt Penitum D..., then tell me if you still agree with that statement of yours....I'd like ot know what Heatsink you owuld use, and how LOUD it is...Athlon X2's run pretty quite with 55 Degrees full load on stock heatsink, but put a pentium D in there with Stock Heatsink then you will be at 62 Degrees load and 45DB of NOISE!!!..., not a lot of Heatsinks that fit in that case to handle a Pentium D, not Tried the Zalman CNPS8000, but all the heat being blown around the motherboard can't be good for it, especially the voltage regulators...
Click to expand...

You never listen, your the only person who has issues, so what your Processor outputs that, my 3ghz 3700 will be getting close.

Raikiri has a 160w+, closer to 170w really with no issues. Your cooling sucks, you made a big mistake and everyone says so. You can't run a cooler passive when it was designed to have a fan, using the PSU fan is not an option.

I am using a thermaltake Blue Orb II at 60% then speeds up at 50deg to keep it below that level.

Cools fantastically, yours is the only Sugo that does not cool well as you have no clue about cooling, as has been proven in about six threads by different members now. The sugo cools brilliantly especially for a SFF case.

Your processor being 130w as you keep on saying means next to nothing, just means it runs comparatively hotter to a AMD, but on the same scale my 3700 would be around 50 load as a P-D.

Raikiri said it best, you have a 130w processor, its not an excuse, he has a 160w one cooler.

WJA96 ran EE versions of the processor overclocked, got to be hitting over 180w output, and cooler than your PSU cooled cooler.

Sugo's cool great, your cooling solution is crap. End of.

My money is on give me the choice of three fans, a CPU cooler and PSU I could nock 20deg of your temperatures, without much thought.

Oh and the motherboard I used is a Asus A8N-VM CSM Micro ATX (Socket 939) PCI Express Motherboard from OcUK.

Good board, someone sent me a BIOS over MSN, its a great clocking board to which surprised me, as I literally went ennie meanie miney mo. :p
 
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Stealthing the drives, hmm.

You could make it so you could only open them from right click - eject in my computer. :)

There is a guide in the Case Central modding sticky, its temporarily down for maintainence though, so I will copy it here:
Stealthing DVD Drives

There are a few good ways of doing this. Some being more permanent than others. Personally, I prefer to use the most solid method as it means I'm not refixing or adjusting the face plate every few days.

You will need
One DVD drive
One tube of superglue
One hacksaw/other cutting instrument
One metal file
Two "spacers"
One scrap of plastic
Phillips screwdriver

1. Unscrew the CD ROM and slide it forwards so you have some space to work in.

2. Using a screwdriver, pop off the front bezel of the drive. You will probably want to also remove the plate from the actual sliding tray so that it can be re-used should you sell the drive. this is far easier if the tray is open!

3. Take your two spacers. These can be anything really, as long as they are cuboid with perfectly flat edges. I used two M10 nuts.
Superglue them to the front of the slide-out tray, where the bezel used to be. Make sure the glue takes well and leave them to dry.

4. Take a spare blanking plate. Remove the sides that normally clip it into the case fron. Sometimes they bend and snap easily, but this can often damage the lacquer, especially on Lian Li cases. I use a junior hacksaw and then take the roughness off the edges with a metal file.

5. Slide the tray shut, and push the CD ROM back into the case, leaving it sticking out a little bit. Apply some superglue to the end of your chosen spacers and stick the spare blanking plate to them, using the other plates and the shape of the case to make sure it all lines up nicely.

6. Check the drive operates smoothly, and that your new face plate doesn't catch on anything when operating.

7. To save you using Windows Explorer to eject the drive, you need a piece of scrap plastic to go between the corner of the face plate and the micro switch. This needs to be long enough to literally be resting on the switch when the drawer is shut. Use a piece of scrap plastic and keep filing it down until it is exactly the correct length. Now when you lightly press the corner of the face plate, the scrap plastic should touch the switch and open the drive.

8. Refit the drive and make sure it is all nicely lined up. Screw it down.
Easy wasn't it?

By Lopez
Click to expand...

Of course do not make a open and close button and you are set. :)

If thats a bit more than you would like to do, you could always just put something over the open and close button. :p
 
bobinski said:
Ta!
I should have looked shouldnt I :)
Click to expand...

Its in a mod only area at the moment, just re-made it you see!

No worries, was a pain to find in the old sticky anyway! :)

Good luck with the mod, I recommend a dremel like tool to make the cuts into aluminium.
 
Yewen said:
My money is on give me the choice of three fans, a CPU cooler and PSU I could nock 20deg of your temperatures, without much thought.
Click to expand...

No way you can knock 20 degrees off that cpu in the same case, absolute load of BULL!!!, you will be lucky if you get 10..even the stock Intle cooler pulls 64 Degrees Full load on that CPU, where as an X2 3800 on stock is 55 Degrees Full load..bottom linme is until tyou tried it yourself stop chatting out of your arse...had I of known about the blue Orb II in may I would have got it, but hey I looked at every single cooler that would fit the SUGO and just thoguht that one was the same as Zalman 7700 which was not Ideal for Pentium D...well my mistake, so I went with the NT06, and got crappy temps. so much for listening to Silverstone Techs..well who cares, I got a new case now for £70 and I'm happy getting 55 Degrees Full, which knocks 15 degrees off my previous temps, so i'm happy...maybe I will go back to my Sugo one day with that Blue Orb approach, I still have a £120 Intel Viiv Mobo lying about, shame it does nto take conroe, I just dread another Pentium D Build in that...
 
meansizzler if you are running a CPU with a NT06 without fan in a Sugo, when the heatsink was not designed for it just by adding a higher end cooler to the system will have massive results, especially considering the reference cooler can be easily improved upon, if it could not you would not be able to buy aftermarket coolers.
 
Snoops said:
Just out of interest, what graphics card was u running in your sugo build meansizzler ?
Click to expand...

X1800XT - 65 Degrees Load...Fitted with Zalman VF900 which to be honest is quieter than stock but does not give any noticeable temp improvements in sugo...
 
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