Swiftech H20 Louder than air

HatMan

HatMan

HatMan

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I have just installed the H20 120.1 system in my PC not for the extra cooling but for the alleged reduction in noise. Before I had three Amber 120 and the three stock Antec 3 speed, plus the 8800GTS fan running along with the freezer 7. Temps were always low but loudish, too loud for me to sleep 6 fit from it. The H20 is not a simple fit in a P182SE but I made brackets for it etc and it fits great. The pump is louder than all my previous fans running together and the speed keeps fluctuating every so slightly now and then. I have lapped the CPU and the base of the H20 and my current temps are 32ºc,32ºc,32ºc,35ºc. I still have the side off as I haven't decided whether to keep the H20 or how the hole in the side panel will be finished. Does anyone know if the pump needs to run in and thus get quieter? I must say that, in the believe I have installed it all correctly, I am not impressed so far.

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Have you tried holding the pump in your hand when it's running? If this silences it then you need to mount it on some rubber grommets, if not then the pump may have a problem. Shouldn't have a 'run in' period - you could always consider replacing it, but it sounds more like an RMA job :(
 
I've got one of those and the pump is completely silent, i was relly impressed with it. It did make a fair bit of noise when I was filling/bleeding the system though.

Make sure you've got all of the air out, I know it's a little tricky without clear hose though.

Also, the fan that comes with the kit is the noisiest I've ever heard in my life when running at 12v! I've replaced it with a noctua one and the performance isn't affected too much.

Hope this helps. If the pump is still really noisy then there must be something up.
 
A couple of things.

You should not be able to hear the pump at all. If you can there is either something wrong with ti or there is something stuck in it, like air, for example.

Make sure your system is fully bled as it makes a HUGE difference to the noise profile of the watercooling system. Try bleeding it again: the only way I can suggest is literally take it out and move it (sigh) all about to make sure all the air pockets have bene removed. If you've already done this, you could try draining the system and then refilling it.

In a properly functioning watercooling system, the loudest components should be the fans...
 
Looks like an interesting all in one kit. Suprised it had problems fiting an a p182 considering all cable obstructions are easily removed with that case. I assume its meant to connect to the back 120mm fan?
 
Actually I have should have worded my initial post more precisely. The P182 is more than capable of accomadating the H20 but my DQ6 won't allow it because of the VRM heatsinks etc. I have swapped all my fans for four Noctua 120mm 3 x 800rpm and 2 x 1200rpm. I will drain the system again and try again. Thanks for the advice.
 
The noise and fluctuations in the noise are good indications that you air in the loop. Try pulsing the power on and off repeatedly to try and shift it.

It's be a shame if you were put off by this, mine vibrated like something from a sex shop, but it was pretty quiet.

Oh, and since no-one else so far has complimented you on it, can I just say, that's a very nice install. Extremely neat and tidy.
 
Ok, tonight I have completely removed and emptied the coolant from my system. I refilled it really slowly with the rad much high than the block. I powered it up and let it run for a minute, the topped up and checked again. The pump is making exactly the same amount of noise. I have written to SwifTech and sent them images of my install for them to appraise. Based on the fact I'll have to take the mobo out AGAIN, I figured I ask them first.

Anyone know why Speedfan gives some strange readings and inaccurate voltage readings? (Vista 64) Temp 3 is -3c and my 12v rail is at -8.04v!!!
 
Pump is noisy too

I just fitted the kit yesterday and my pump is making the same loud noise, and also it is differing in noise level too so you are not alone. Did you ever solve the problem or was it indeed air as I might give mine a go too to see if I can get rid of anymore air.
 
HatMan said:
I have just installed the H20 120.1 system in my PC not for the extra cooling but for the alleged reduction in noise. Before I had three Amber 120 and the three stock Antec 3 speed, plus the 8800GTS fan running along with the freezer 7. Temps were always low but loudish, too loud for me to sleep 6 fit from it. The H20 is not a simple fit in a P182SE but I made brackets for it etc and it fits great. The pump is louder than all my previous fans running together and the speed keeps fluctuating every so slightly now and then. I have lapped the CPU and the base of the H20 and my current temps are 32ºc,32ºc,32ºc,35ºc. I still have the side off as I haven't decided whether to keep the H20 or how the hole in the side panel will be finished. Does anyone know if the pump needs to run in and thus get quieter? I must say that, in the believe I have installed it all correctly, I am not impressed so far.
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You shouldn't have lapped the H20 block as it comes bowed with a thicker O-ring on purpose, as it's been proven that bowed water blocks work on processors with a IHS.

Hence why the D-Tek is bowed (accidentally from the manufacturing process) EK Supreme and Swiftech ApogeeGT/GTX/Drive all come bowed.
 
Well I solved my pump noise problem. Bought an Apogee GT CPU block and some more tubing. Fixed this in, then bought some bluetack and got some sticky felt pads from my brother.

Put the felt pad in the bottom of the case, then stuck a wad of bluetack on each foot and put it in.

Still vibrated !!! It was quieter than before though but not "silent". So then I looked at the empty cardboard packet the bluetack came in. Suddenly had a bright idea. Covered the cardboard packet with the felt both sides, stuck it under the pump, still with bluetack on it, and guess what, no pump noise !!

Now the loudest sound is my case fans.
 
what are the load temps like on that.
i was asking about it and people said i shouldn't bother.
i like the idea of a simple fit.

jobe
 
Mekrel said:
You shouldn't have lapped the H20 block as it comes bowed with a thicker O-ring on purpose, as it's been proven that bowed water blocks work on processors with a IHS.

Hence why the D-Tek is bowed (accidentally from the manufacturing process) EK Supreme and Swiftech ApogeeGT/GTX/Drive all come bowed.
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Why would someone make a block which is intentionally not flat? It's normally due to poor manufacturing techniques and I don't see why it would be of any benefit. :confused:
 
Because once under pressure and squeezed against another non-flat surface the two surfaces warp and mate together with the highest pressure point (and therefore hopefully best contact) right in the middle of the die.
 
Having to tighten the block down really tight to get the two faces to mate properly is NOT a good thing. It's bad for all the components involved.

If both faces are flat they will mate across the full area and transfer more heat without needing to be pulled so tight that it effectively bends the block flat.

Blocks aren't flat because something in the machining process is causing the component to bend, usually because too much material is removed in one cut and excess heat is produced. Not enough coolant can also cause this.

If a manufacturer tells you anything different I would be very, very suspicious that they are merely trying to cover up cost cutting exercises.
 
wolvers69 said:
Having to tighten the block down really tight to get the two faces to mate properly is NOT a good thing. It's bad for all the components involved.
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Not if that is how the specifications were designed. Even the stock Intel heatsink applies a set known pressure downwards onto the top of the chip and allegedly Intel claimed the P4 heatspreader was not flat because it would "deform flat" under the specified heatsink pressure.
 
Did anyone during the leak test of this Swiftech pump/block found it pretty hot? I started leak test and after taking all bubbles out pump was silent but still hot. I didn't install this pump on cpu, it was running only with radiator in the loop.
Anyone had same problem?
 
wolvers69 said:
Having to tighten the block down really tight to get the two faces to mate properly is NOT a good thing. It's bad for all the components involved.

If both faces are flat they will mate across the full area and transfer more heat without needing to be pulled so tight that it effectively bends the block flat.

Blocks aren't flat because something in the machining process is causing the component to bend, usually because too much material is removed in one cut and excess heat is produced. Not enough coolant can also cause this.

If a manufacturer tells you anything different I would be very, very suspicious that they are merely trying to cover up cost cutting exercises.
Click to expand...

It's nothing to do with manufacturing process, the block is bowed on purpose by a thicker O-Ring. The stock Intel heat sink warps the board to hell, it's part of the design. It puts something like 60+ Lbs of pressure onto the processor.

This is true for ApogeeDrive/GT/GTX. If you're talking D-Tek FuZion, then yes - the bowed was produced due to the manufacturing process but later discovered as a benefit.

Rosco over at CoolingMasters did a great article on bowed blocks - it's in French but the pictures paint a 1000 words.
 
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