Tag Mclaren.

OK well that was really annoying LOL. IDK what got lost in translation, but it was totally too big. So after cutting it down I realised it would not fit under the 6mm DVD holder. This is what happens when you measure up a job before another is done haha. So I erm, "Adjusted" it :D

VtQ6i4v.png


Wrapped the inside with white 3M.

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Give it some of the sticky stuffs.

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Dmj45Ul.png


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I am very glad that is over.
 
Things now done.

PSU cover label has been laminated with 3M helicopter tape.
SSD fitted (look behind the DVD drive)
Antenna cable fitted.
Optical digital cable fitted and soldered. The white goo is liquid tape.
SATA cables fitted. Forgot to say, I got braided ones with my Z590 Aorus Tachyon. Nice.
HDMI cable fitted.
The molex spare connector has been stuck to the rear. That isn't just floating around.
Cable clips fitted. Power cables to the drives has been tidied, along with the digital coaxial cable.
PSU is now stuck down.

I *think* that is all of it, but I did have a marathon sesh so feel free to ogle the pic and see if you can spot anything else :D

QJJJ7ho.png
 
Still waiting on the board. Mate's car needs a fix for the MOT so he hasn't been down with it yet.

I broke one of the power button wires earlier. Annoying. I shall fix that tomorrow, but I really need a break now. Knackered.
 
Not much going to happen today. The board is going out tomorrow first class, so all I need to do later is fix the power button wire (one broke off). Might have a tidy tinker then, but what I do want is a better remote.

I tested the one I bought on Windows and Kodi in Windows. It works fine. The problem is I can not access the area where the hole is for the IR sensor. The drive covers it. I'm not about to start trying to make it work with the original sensor (if that is even possible) and one thing nagging me is "Will it work in Linux?". I doubt it.

What I had forgotten was modern remotes use 2.4ghz wireless for the signal. So I got this.

B0JB9Mo.jpg


It also works in Linux. It would also be very handy to have a keyboard there if I ever need to change the WIFI details and what not.
 
OK so I did something. I repaired the power button, then shortened the molex connector for the light box. Very tidy now. One thing I knew would be a pain was the huge RCA connector. The cable is also quite thick, so turning it 90' is a pain, and would need to go over the mobo. And so..

cqGcIuY.jpg
 
OK so I didn't do an awful lot today, but what I did was very important. The first job of the day of course was to fix the broken power button wire. I know why it failed, too. The solder wire I have is so stupidly thin that it is almost impossible to tin anything properly. You end up having to shove about a foot of it onto the iron. I then found my 2mm, so that was awesome. I then cut off the molex run and shortened it down to one connector for the light box. Which was then tucked and tidied to make room at the front.

y6p3hto.png


The "half an EPS" needs to go too. I then got out the bottom panel. It had four of the feet you see at the back on. Not original. Thankfully when I bought one of my amps the guy who sold it to me sent me two spare feet. They are not original either, but are the original colours and made from the same stuff (sorbethane). So that was cool. I had to fit countersunk bolts to those, to stop it not going down flat.

GrQ5wC0.png


Two screws no longer fit, but I can "adjust" that later. I just wanted it fitted back on.

Last week I made up the power cable, to match all of the others in the system.

UJvZxXs.png


So that was another job ticked off.
 
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Not much going to happen today. The board is going out tomorrow first class, so all I need to do later is fix the power button wire (one broke off). Might have a tidy tinker then, but what I do want is a better remote.

I tested the one I bought on Windows and Kodi in Windows. It works fine. The problem is I can not access the area where the hole is for the IR sensor. The drive covers it. I'm not about to start trying to make it work with the original sensor (if that is even possible) and one thing nagging me is "Will it work in Linux?". I doubt it.

What I had forgotten was modern remotes use 2.4ghz wireless for the signal. So I got this.

B0JB9Mo.jpg


It also works in Linux. It would also be very handy to have a keyboard there if I ever need to change the WIFI details and what not.
That's a very neat remote but you are going to need perfect eyesight & the hands of a child to be able to use it
 
OK so I didn't do an awful lot today, but what I did was very important. The first job of the day of course was to fix the broken power button wire. I know why it failed, too. The solder wire I have is so stupidly thin that it is almost impossible to tin anything properly. You end up having to shove about a foot of it onto the iron. I then found my 2mm, so that was awesome. I then cut off the molex run and shortened it down to one connector for the light box. Which was then tucked and tidied to make room at the front.

y6p3hto.png


The "half an EPS" needs to go too. I then got out the bottom panel. It had four of the feet you see at the back on. Not original. Thankfully when I bought one of my amps the guy who sold it to me sent me two spare feet. They are not original either, but are the original colours and made from the same stuff (sorbethane). So that was cool. I had to fit countersunk bolts to those, to stop it not going down flat.

GrQ5wC0.png


Two screws no longer fit, but I can "adjust" that later. I just wanted it fitted back on.

Last week I made up the power cable, to match all of the others in the system.

UJvZxXs.png


So that was another job ticked off.
It's a pity I didn't still have my damaged dvd player, as I would send you the feet of that.

Also the mains power cable is very interesting. Do you mind saying where you got the components from

Thanks
 
I can't tell you where I got them from no. It's against forum policy to mention competitors. What I can tell you is it is an auction site, and they are called IEC connectors. You want the Rhodium plated ones.

Also, the cable itself is Lapp cable. AKA OLFLEX. It is completely shielded, and cheap. Highly rated among "No snakeoil no BS" audio fans. As I said before, I am not an audiophile. I don't believe my ears are any better than any other human but I can see the point in shielding power and having it look nice without taking my pants down and offering up my first born. There is another one. The power cable, like. I forget who made it. This video goes through it all. Oddly enough I got the same power conditioner Tarun recommends too.


He also tells you which power cable I have, and the other one I forgot the name of.
 
I can't tell you where I got them from no. It's against forum policy to mention competitors. What I can tell you is it is an auction site, and they are called IEC connectors. You want the Rhodium plated ones.

Also, the cable itself is Lapp cable. AKA OLFLEX. It is completely shielded, and cheap. Highly rated among "No snakeoil no BS" audio fans. As I said before, I am not an audiophile. I don't believe my ears are any better than any other human but I can see the point in shielding power and having it look nice without taking my pants down and offering up my first born. There is another one. The power cable, like. I forget who made it. This video goes through it all. Oddly enough I got the same power conditioner Tarun recommends too.


He also tells you which power cable I have, and the other one I forgot the name of.
Thank you very much for the information. The video you linked me to was something I came across as few years ago. This inspired me to look at the same company on the video and then look on the bay. I then ended up purchasing from china something very similar and made my own power cables with the same conditioning block as shown. Not sure if it makes it sound any better but at least it turns on
 
Well as I said I don't do snake oil. However, that doesn't mean I don't like good quality products.

8W7hb0F.jpg


I promised myself when I began many years ago I would do it properly. I did use Audioquest cables, but it was cheap. Like £3 a metre cheap.

nrwW3VB.jpg


qHpaTLa.jpg


Again, it is "entry level" stuff but IMO it doesn't get much better.

I think one of the best scores was the JBLs. They were half price, so £499. They came with "free speaker cable" though. I wasn't aware that it cost almost as much as I spent on the speakers :D

jCcImcF.jpg


That's the beauty of audio. It drops in price fast. The Revel M105 up front were £699 on a clearance, way below the RRP. For a centre I got this.

7NEZFtK.jpg


Again, Revel. That's a £800 unit. I paid £120 on Ebay. I have fitted that into the middle cupboard of the TV unit. Which reminds me. I still need to paint the horn body and finish that.
 
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Just a brief one for today. Obviously I am now waiting on more stuffs to arrive. But good news ! a friend of a friend over that way is coming over tomorrow, and will deliver the board etc for me. Orsum.

I did do a couple of tiny bits though. The first thing worrying me was the incredibly stiff HDMI cable. So I bought a specialty flexible one yesterday.

XySk3CR.png


Cost very little, but will make life much easier for sure. I then found an assortment of the correct type of screw in the scrap box from when I stripped it and then proceeded to cut them all down so they don't bow the acrylic floor. This took some doing, but after a bit of that and some drilling to make the missing ones go in it was done.

QA4hxCs.png


BTW that misty crap all over it? bah. I didn't realise what that was until it refused to go away after the alchol I used to clean it had evaporated. It is paint. Silver over spray from when Mr Dingus got out 'is penz innit. So I will need to clean that about 4 times now, like the front, to get off every bit and stop it smearing. Thankfully there is none on the top (I hope !).

I also bought the cable that will connect it to the AV32. I realised last night that in my experiments I hacked up the only other digital cable I had lmao.

ik3FRyK.png


Got a posh one, 'cause why not (well when I say posh I paid £25 for it, about the same as I spent on the other analogue ones).
 
Well as I said I don't do snake oil. However, that doesn't mean I don't like good quality products.

8W7hb0F.jpg


I promised myself when I began many years ago I would do it properly. I did use Audioquest cables, but it was cheap. Like £3 a metre cheap.

nrwW3VB.jpg


qHpaTLa.jpg


Again, it is "entry level" stuff but IMO it doesn't get much better.

I think one of the best scores was the JBLs. They were half price, so £499. They came with "free speaker cable" though. I wasn't aware that it cost almost as much as I spent on the speakers :D

jCcImcF.jpg


That's the beauty of audio. It drops in price fast. The Revel M105 up front were £699 on a clearance, way below the RRP. For a centre I got this.

7NEZFtK.jpg


Again, Revel. That's a £800 unit. I paid £120 on Ebay. I have fitted that into the middle cupboard of the TV unit. Which reminds me. I still need to paint the horn body and finish that.
The power cable looks very much like mine :D
As for the interconnects they are Chord but I needed a few extra a few years ago and I was advised by a friend who works at Rockfields to use microphone cable as its the same thing and its used in long runs in the studio. Since then I haven't looked back

As for your setup, it does look very good
 
Just a brief one for today. Obviously I am now waiting on more stuffs to arrive. But good news ! a friend of a friend over that way is coming over tomorrow, and will deliver the board etc for me. Orsum.

I did do a couple of tiny bits though. The first thing worrying me was the incredibly stiff HDMI cable. So I bought a specialty flexible one yesterday.

XySk3CR.png


Cost very little, but will make life much easier for sure. I then found an assortment of the correct type of screw in the scrap box from when I stripped it and then proceeded to cut them all down so they don't bow the acrylic floor. This took some doing, but after a bit of that and some drilling to make the missing ones go in it was done.

QA4hxCs.png


BTW that misty crap all over it? bah. I didn't realise what that was until it refused to go away after the alchol I used to clean it had evaporated. It is paint. Silver over spray from when Mr Dingus got out 'is penz innit. So I will need to clean that about 4 times now, like the front, to get off every bit and stop it smearing. Thankfully there is none on the top (I hope !).

I also bought the cable that will connect it to the AV32. I realised last night that in my experiments I hacked up the only other digital cable I had lmao.

ik3FRyK.png


Got a posh one, 'cause why not (well when I say posh I paid £25 for it, about the same as I spent on the other analogue ones).
I am sure you will get that paint off and I read that forest is a good cable so you shouldn't have any issues
 
Having looked at a few threads on forums and looking at your power setup. I am thinking I could have done a better job.

Looking at the video and the company thats been shown. I have come across them on the bay. Could you please help with some recommendations on the power side. Looking on their page they have

connectors part number 352563372224 at £76 each
cable LAPP OLFLEX part number 150777519797 at £9.95 per mtr
MK plug part number 153860315053 at £25 each

when I was looking for these items there were lots of other companies that were also selling audio cables/connectors from china. I take it these wouldn't be suitable

Any help and advice is much appreciated
Thanks
 
I can’t open the ones my phone thinks are phone numbers lol.

I’m currently waiting for my buddy to arrive so not at PC.

404317536374

Are the cheap option.

225212702249

If you want to go extra posh.

The Chinese plugs are absolutely fine. In fact China are now leading the way tbh. There are numerous brands like Wilsenton and Sound Artist (remaking the Rogers LS35A etc) that are knocking it out of the park in China.

Remember, what you want is solid and quality, not snake oil.

As I said I like quality products that last and look nice. Anything more is for audiophiles tbh.

Yes the power cable sounds spot on. I did look that up last night and it’s what I used :)
 
I can’t open the ones my phone thinks are phone numbers lol.

I’m currently waiting for my buddy to arrive so not at PC.

404317536374

Are the cheap option.

225212702249

If you want to go extra posh.

The Chinese plugs are absolutely fine. In fact China are now leading the way tbh. There are numerous brands like Wilsenton and Sound Artist (remaking the Rogers LS35A etc) that are knocking it out of the park in China.

Remember, what you want is solid and quality, not snake oil.

As I said I like quality products that last and look nice. Anything more is for audiophiles tbh.

Yes the power cable sounds spot on. I did look that up last night and it’s what I used :)
Thank you very much for your advice and taking the time to reply.

I looked at the plug you pointed out & it's a lot cheaper than I was looking at. I also looked for the companies you said about in China. Not see anything yet. Would they be found on the Chinese equivalent of the bay

Thanks again for your help
 
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