TESTED Titan Amanda TEC

deadkomodo, i asked above, whats vcore did you run those tests at? i know you tried 1.6V for 3.7GHz but i'm interested in the tests in the first post vcore. :)
 
neologan said:
deadkomodo, i asked above, whats vcore did you run those tests at? i know you tried 1.6V for 3.7GHz but i'm interested in the tests in the first post vcore. :)
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With my Zalman I had to give my CPU more voltage to get it to run OTHROS for hours stable so about 1.58v @3.45ghz (however for everyday usage it could run stable with less Volts i.e. gaming) ;)

With those settings saved in my bios as soon as I put in my Titan ran the test again so both tests were carried out 1.58v @3.45ghz :)

I am now noticing that my CPU with my Titan can run ORTHOS stable @3.45ghz with less volts 1.55v. Hence I am now able to get to 3.7ghz with just over 1.6v :D
 
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CarlD said:
only got 42seconds orthos stable with 4ghz

And i can get 450mhz - fsb max so if i run my multi @ 9 my cpu will run at something like 4.050ghz which my cpu cant do , so i run it @ 8 which gives me 3.6ghz
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What voltage do you run your cpu when its at 3.6ghz?

Im on water and I cant get anywhere near 4ghz. 3.6ghz is doable but I start having to up the vcore, to levels that I am uncomfortable with.
 
It looks to me that you are able to get better clocks using the Amanda than if you were watercooled. To get 3.6ghz out of my cpu on water, I have to hit around 1.5v.

The voltage for me to get to 4ghz doesnt bear thinking about it.

The only bad thing about this device is the added power load it puts on your PSU.
 
I'v not got my loop sorted out properly yet so... :P

give me a few days and ill compare temps and the max stable* overclock i can get using the amanda and water :P

*12hours orthos stable :D
 
CarlD said:
I'v not got my loop sorted out properly yet so... :P

give me a few days and ill compare temps and the max stable* overclock i can get using the amanda and water :P

*12hours orthos stable :D
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This would be fantastic, though it would involve a lot of work on your part.
 
deadkomodo said:
Titan Amanda

15mins AI temp = 45degrees / Core temp = 62degrees
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deadkomodo said:
Test setup

Full tower case with a covered side mesh window (perspex)

Dual 120mm front intake

Single 120mm exhast
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I have the Shark case and liked your idea of covering the honey comb with perspex so I picked up 2 x A4 sheets of 6mm and started cutting. Two hours later I had a nice glass like reflection and a little less noise but got a real shock at the E6400 temps at idle started to climb to 46°C and over 60°C at load,my normal load is 48 - 53, I have the Tuniq Tower and it did not like the lack of air even though the shark case has a 120mm (1400rpm est) exhaust which line up perfectly with the Tuniq and has a 120mm intake(1400 rpm est) My trade for a little less noise was going to be a temperature hike. So the perspex had to go as those temps would be madness in the hotter weather in a few months :( your Titan Amanda is certainly doing an admirable job compared to my setup.
 
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lol....Done this myself today.


Instead of perspex I used some plastic covers I found in the stationary
cupboard at work. ;)


Got a really good effect just by taping them over the honeycomb.


But I went from 57c to 65c under load @ 3.3 with a 6600 :eek:

(Tuniq as well)


The reason I did this was to prevent dust but I may need to re-think with a
8c rise in temps.


I also unscewed the front panel to move the LED so it does not catch your
eye every time you turn round.


Deadkomodo

- Did you replace the front and rear fans ?
- If so what with - and how much of an improvement did you find ?

Also does the additional fan in the 5.25 bays make much difference as it will
only be getting a restricted flow with the door?

Seems a few folk have removed the door to get better airflow as this case
does seem a bit limited in this department.
 
Angus02 said:
lol....Done this myself today.


Instead of perspex I used some plastic covers I found in the stationary
cupboard at work. ;)


Got a really good effect just by taping them over the honeycomb.


But I went from 57c to 65c under load @ 3.3 with a 6600 :eek:

(Tuniq as well)


The reason I did this was to prevent dust but I may need to re-think with a
8c rise in temps.


I also unscewed the front panel to move the LED so it does not catch your
eye every time you turn round.


Deadkomodo

- Did you replace the front and rear fans ?
- If so what with - and how much of an improvement did you find ?

Also does the additional fan in the 5.25 bays make much difference as it will
only be getting a restricted flow with the door?

Seems a few folk have removed the door to get better airflow as this case
does seem a bit limited in this department.
Click to expand...


The mesh for me just allowed in too much dust and it showed up really bad with my lights :(

All the thermaltake fans have been repleaced by .... wait for it.... jeantech fans LOL :) No seriously they were brand new from a friends case and move lots of air and look kewl. They are all fan controlled so when it needs to be cool I turned them up.

For light gaming, browsing the net, listening to music, watching movies ect it is silent and gets about 80% less dust than before. As hinted with the silent talk the side perspex cover makes the PC far quiter.

I leave the front door open when benching/gaming and this means two 120mm fans at the front of my case takes in a lot of air and when on full speed descrease case temps by at least 15degrees.

When the PC is doing not much I shut the door and turn the fans right down...silence :cool:

To summarise

perspex side window = less dust and less noise
additional fan in the 5.25 bay easily ofsets the extra heat through adding perspex side window

hope this helps

ps I have benched my rig for at least 8hours when I left for uni running 3dmark06 maxed out looping and prime95 running in the background (not orthos I still wanted 06 to run lol). I had the perspex fitted, the fans on low, the titan amanda on and the front door shut.

When I came back my room was lovely and warm, rig was still running perfect and the PSU and 120m fan at the back was doing a grand job at expelling the heat. I guess what I am trying to say is I am VERY happy that I put on the perspex side window and fitted an additional 120mm fan at front (even with front door closed it is still pushing warm air out of the case).

additional

the extra 120mm is appox 5cm from the mesh (I also added mesh drive bays in front of it to prevent dust, I just hoover off the trapped build up of dust every now and then). I placed the fan 5cm behind the mesh so it is far less noisy (near silence) and still functions when the door is shut due to it not being right up against mesh and a door.
 
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Thanks for the info.

Just out of interest what brand / model of mesh 5.25 drive bay are you using
and does it fit okay as I have a quick sniff about and get see anything
resembling this as I think I will need to go down this route.


cheers
 
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Angus02 said:
Thanks for the info.

Just out of interest what brand / model of mesh 5.25 drive bay are you using
and does it fit okay as I have a quick sniff about and get see anything
resembling this as I think I will need to go down this route.


cheers
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LOL :D .... jeantech again I robbed them off my mates case http://www.jeantech.com/nitro.htm

as you can see it has a lots of 5.25 drive bay mesh ;) They fit nice and snug in my case with very little additional modding. I am sure most generic mesh would fit perfect or require little hassle to get it right.
 
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got my e6600 running at 3.6ghz (400x9)
im putting 1.475V through the cpu (set in bios)
after 10 minutes of orthos blend on priority 9 i am getting

54-59 degrees

i think the reason why it is fluctuating so much is because the tec is constantly switching from 50% to 100% or maybe because it is on blend and that is the point when the cpu isnt fully stressed
 
sunama said:
What was the max stable overclock you were able to get with the zalman and what is the max stable overclock with the amanda?
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I personally managed to get 3.6ghz stable on whilst modelling in 3D Studio Max and also on a 12-hour render, I never encountered any issues.
When using the CPU at 3.0ghz it runs very cool, though since I've installed Vista I don't have any readers working, I believe it was something like 17degrees at 2.4ghz and 22 at 3.0ghz.
Something like that, thats what I remember, but I've been wrong before :p.

My CPU is a C2D E6600 running in an Akasa Eclipse-62 w/ 2x SilenX iXtrema Pro case fans with the Titan Amanda heatsink.
I've been running the setup since it was released, November I think?
 
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deadkomodo said:
Just got my new issue of custom PC and they have a fan called the scythe kama bay which fits into three 5.25 drive bays and has a mesh covering on it. It looks pretty cool and not too much money either.
http://users.atw.hu/prorok/scythe_kama-bay.jpg
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Yeah, i use a couple of Kama's and they're very effective! Although i'd replace the scythe fan cos if it's airflow you want 800rpm just doesn't cut it!!! It will accept any 120mm x 25mm fan so something like a sharkoon 2000 should do the trick! ;)

gt
 
Hi guys I have a stupid question I hope someone can answer for me :D

I am doing a new build tomorrow and I have a Titan as my CPU cooler. The mobo is a Asus P5N-E SLi nForce 650 which has 1 x CPU fan header and 2 x case fan headers.
As the Titan has 2 fans and 2 separate connections to the fan headers (see image below connection 1)

Do I connect 1 header to the CPU header and the other one to a case fan header? or both to the case fan headers A & B?

titan.png


Sorry for the noob question but I would rather check now then screw up.

Many thanks in advance :)
 
As long as they are connected it doesn't so much matter, they will clearly read as different fans in the BIOS though, so if that annoys you, just connect both to fan headers to have 2 reading the same speed under the same name.

I have one on the CPU FAN and one on CHA FAN, just because it feels safer for me to do so :p
 
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