*** The Car Cleaning Thread ***

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shifty_uk said:
Fair enough. I had the price in mind, too. No point paying over the odds for a heat gun that may or may not make much of a difference and I'd probably never have another use for it.
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Had a look at plastidip? alexisonfire done a thread on it recently.

Gibbo sprayed his splitter, and a few guys have done bits and pieces of there black trim in the Fiesta ST thread.
 
Silly question:

I polished, glossed and waxed my car the other weekend and now I'm wondering how to wash it again without messing up my layers? Is it ok to use AG shampoo? Also, if I want to put another layer of wax on (Collinite 915) is this ok to do by itself or do I have to do the whole routine again? I assume not but would just like reassurance.

Cheers
 
shifty_uk said:
I might be being a complete nonce here but can't you just buy a relatively cheap rotary sander, example:
/snip/ and apply some applicator/buffing pads? :)
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Probably not the best idea. Rotarys tend to be a little harder to use for novices with a higher risk for potentially damaging clearcoat/paint due to oribiting on one axis rather than several like a DA (Dual Action). Which means whilst you;re machining the same area you're less concentrated. A DA will take slighly longer and isn't 'as good' for corrections a rotary but for the novice detailer it's perfectly good enough.
 
NVP said:
Silly question:

I polished, glossed and waxed my car the other weekend and now I'm wondering how to wash it again without messing up my layers? Is it ok to use AG shampoo? Also, if I want to put another layer of wax on (Collinite 915) is this ok to do by itself or do I have to do the whole routine again? I assume not but would just like reassurance.

Cheers
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Shampoo will be fine and dry with micro fibre towels. Then apply another layer/s of wax. You can't use LSP on top of wax, so I've read. For example:
LSP/Wax/LSP/Wax wouldn't work as they wouldn't bond together well.
LSP/Wax/Wax/Wax would be fine.

You only need to repolish when you feel the paint requires it. In which case removing the previous protection with some IPA or Clay & quick detailer will be fine and give you 'bare' (unprotected) paint to work with. Otherwise you're just going to polish on top of wax.
 
Thanks BennyC, appreciated.

I think I may have done something wrong then because I first clayed, polished, glossed & then waxed about a month ago, and then last week I polished glossed & waxed again. I thought it would be ok though because it was just some Meguires Liquid Gold Wax the first time which I thought would have been long gone which is why I polished again... but I did not clay it to remove anything, hopefully 3/4 weeks was long enough for the liquid wax to fully deteriorate.

I am using Collinite now, how can I tell when I need to do the whole routine again because to be honest I couldn't really tell much difference in the before or after, I just wanted to protect the paint.
 
NVP said:
Thanks BennyC, appreciated.

I think I may have done something wrong then because I first clayed, polished, glossed & then waxed about a month ago, and then last week I polished glossed & waxed again. I thought it would be ok though because it was just some Meguires Liquid Gold Wax the first time which I thought would have been long gone which is why I polished again... but I did not clay it to remove anything, hopefully 3/4 weeks was long enough for the liquid wax to fully deteriorate.

I am using Collinite now, how can I tell when I need to do the whole routine again because to be honest I couldn't really tell much difference in the before or after, I just wanted to protect the paint.
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You only need to polish for a shine, so if your happy with it as it is just keep topping up the wax when you feel like it really. Collinite should last a good few months before needing to go on again.
 
NVP said:
I am using Collinite now, how can I tell when I need to do the whole routine again because to be honest I couldn't really tell much difference in the before or after, I just wanted to protect the paint.
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Begbie said:
You only need to polish for a shine, so if your happy with it as it is just keep topping up the wax when you feel like it really. Collinite should last a good few months before needing to go on again.
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A good sign when the wax/LSP is deteriorating is reduced/inferior beading :cool:
 
BennyC said:
Probably not the best idea. Rotarys tend to be a little harder to use for novices with a higher risk for potentially damaging clearcoat/paint due to oribiting on one axis rather than several like a DA (Dual Action). Which means whilst you;re machining the same area you're less concentrated. A DA will take slighly longer and isn't 'as good' for corrections a rotary but for the novice detailer it's perfectly good enough.
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This same old claptrap gets boring. I wonder, have you ever used a rotary?
 
Clarkey said:
This same old claptrap gets boring. I wonder, have you ever used a rotary?
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No I have not. I did not say 'you will burn the paint' with a rotary n00b. I said there is a higher chance as they are supposedly more difficult to use. If they weren't why would DA's exist?

I'm aware that people like you throw your rattle out the pram over things like this so I tried to tip toe which obviously hasn't worked.
 
Begbie said:
Had a look at plastidip? alexisonfire done a thread on it recently.

Gibbo sprayed his splitter, and a few guys have done bits and pieces of there black trim in the Fiesta ST thread.
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Excellent, thanks mate. This looks ideal. :)

Do you know if any retailers stock it yet or is it best ordered directly?
 
That's the one I've got but you will need pads and backing plates.

I'm not entirely sure about SRP but I don't think it will have enough cut. In fact, doesn't it act as a filler or is the EGP?

I'm not sure where you can get them retail but I ordered the following kit from i4D.
 
Howard: You'll want 3 of 4 different pads, as you may need a firmer or softer pad. You'll want some proper compound too. Menzerna or Sonus are quite generic ones.

SRP doesn't have enough cut to use on a MP as it is basically a filler IIRC.

You can use EGP on wheels though you'd be best off with a wheel specific sealant.
 
I'm sure it's a cardinal sin asking in here, but.. Is there anything I can buy from Halfords that is going to be better than using SRP? I'd like to have a go over the weekend if possible..! :p

I've just picked up a scrap panel from a body shop to practice on as well (from an MX5, ironically)
 
I'm not entirely sure Halfords will do anything suitable.

I imagine, but am happy to be proved wrong, that Halfords will only sell polishes designed to be worked-in by hand.

Machine polish and hand polish are very different beasts due to the extra forces involved in machine polishing. The compounds break down in different ways and hand polish on a machine might not be very effective.
 
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