*** The Car Cleaning Thread ***

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LiE said:
Correct. I just popped out and did a small scratch I noticed a few days ago.

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gone.

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Just make sure you work it in properly with a medium pressure. It will start to go clear as the abrasives work.
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Wow that is impressive, what kind movement to use when polishing it mate? Cheers
 
Just a question, as someone here may be able to tell me:
I'm considering one of those water softening systems, as the water in Cambridge is hard.
The kettle, used once or twice a day will be covered in limescale in a day or two. The effects on hair/skin are very noticeable.
I understand that the process, at least for the systems that I've checked do it by using salt. Their customer service says that I may notice that shampoo and detergents won't generate as much foam. Not an issue, but my question is regarding washing the car, which I tend to do every week or two. Would the salt used for the process of softening of the water cause any problem with exposed metal, such as brake discs or untreated paintwork chip?
 
LiE said:
For a traditional style wax application you can look at something like Bilt Hamber Double Speed Wax.

I'm a big fan of the new spray on while wet and rinse off type sealants. So easy to get a layer of protection on the car that doesn't need curing, buffing etc.
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I just purchased HydrO2 Lite off the back of your recommendation. I have never used a wet style sealant before. Any tips?

I have just taken delivery of my new car, as its brand new paintwork would you recommend ironx first before the hydro or just a foam, 2b and good to go?
 
I would leave it for a few weeks to let the paint thoroughly out-gas before applying any sealants, so just 2b washing and something like BSD before giving it a thorough going over and decon before applying sealant a bit later.
 
kai said:
I just purchased HydrO2 Lite off the back of your recommendation. I have never used a wet style sealant before. Any tips?

I have just taken delivery of my new car, as its brand new paintwork would you recommend ironx first before the hydro or just a foam, 2b and good to go?
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I'm not sure you'd need a decon fresh paint. Iron and tar builds up over the years. You can run your hand over the paint, it if it feels a little rough then a decon may be a good step, otherwise if it feels smooth you'll be OK.

HyrO2 is very easy to apply - simply clean your car with a 2 bucket method, rinse off the soap, then before you dry, mist onto the wet paint a panel at a time, pressure washing off. Done.

You may want to look into getting CarPro Reset shampoo as well, as this will restore your HydrO2 as it becomes covered in dirt and oils. You'll notice the beading starts to lessen after 2-3 weeks as it gets dirty.

Are you using a foam pre-wash?
 
LiE said:
I'm not sure you'd need a decon fresh paint. Iron and tar builds up over the years.

HyrO2 is very easy to apply - simply clean your car with a 2 bucket method, rinse off the soap, then before you dry, mist onto the wet paint a panel at a time, pressure washing off. Done.

You may want to look into getting CarPro Reset shampoo as well, as this will restore your HydrO2 as it becomes covered in dirt and oils. You'll notice the beading starts to lessen after 2-3 weeks as it gets dirty.

Are you using a foam pre-wash?
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Yes, i use the Auto Finesse Avalanche Snow Foam. I would use this before a 2b approach on my previous car. I always use: Bilt Hamber Auto Wash Car Shampoo. Its easily one of the best shampoos i have ever used. Are there any benefits of using Reset over something like the BH Shampoo?

2-3 weeks, i was hoping for 2-3 months as per the label. I guess i can see me going back to wax before long :( . I have never owned a white car before, so i was looking at the dodo juice diamond white
 
kai said:
Yes, i use the Auto Finesse Avalanche Snow Foam. I would use this before a 2b approach on my previous car. I always use: Bilt Hamber Auto Wash Car Shampoo. Its easily one of the best shampoos i have ever used. Are there any benefits of using Reset over something like the BH Shampoo?

2-3 weeks, i was hoping for 2-3 months as per the label. I guess i can see me going back to wax before long :( . I have never owned a white car before, so i was looking at the dodo juice diamond white
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2-3 weeks is how long it usually takes for your protection to get covered in dirt and oil, which reduces the beading/self cleaning. You then clean away the dirt and oil and your beading is back. The protection is still there and last for months. If after you've cleaned the car, there's little to no beading, that's a sign that protection is on it's last legs.

Same thing happens if you put a Ceramic coat on, after a while it won't bead as much, but you just give it a clean. The protection is still there.

Reset is formulated to work with CarPro protection, to restore it's properties by being a very effective cleaner. Your current soap will be fine for now, I don't think it contains anything that will stay on your paint, and it does a good job cleaning. Some soaps are either not strong enough to remove the oils, or they leave behind residue that masks the protection, which can make some think the protection is in fact gone.
 
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Really really impressed with Autoglym Polar Seal, after the second wash it's still beading beautifully during the frequent periods of rain. So easy to apply too and it performs and lasts better than Gyeon Wet coat & Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Wax, (in my opinion) and a damn site easier to apply than the latter too.

What I'm less impressed with is my Nilfisk C110. It's given up the ghost on me and it's definitely not user error this time for those that remember! Replacement is looking likely to be a Karcher K4 at the minute.
 
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