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The Climbing Thread

Discussion in 'Sports Arena' started by mid_gen, Sep 13, 2017.

  1. Street

    Soldato

    Joined: Jan 17, 2005

    Posts: 7,236

    Location: Liverpool

    Yeh, that's the problem.. Being strict with myself. Once the pain goes I'll start up on some grades well within my limit and see how it goes, general advice is 12 weeks before it's back to full strength but hopefully I can ease myself up to that, really be strict with myself and not prolong it. I was going to head to the wall tonight after work but as it's still sore I've purposefully left my gear at home so I don't get tempted!
     
  2. fez

    Capodecina

    Joined: Aug 22, 2008

    Posts: 12,647

    Location: Sidcup

    Yeah, its frustrating but ask almost anyone who has been injured for a long time (more than a few months with something reasonably minor) if they wish they had rested/rehabbed it better and they will all say yes. It might feel like you are wasting 2 months training and getting weaker but the alternative is either a proper chronic injury or you will just stay at your current level for a year with a slight injury instead of having 2 months of slight regression followed by 10 months of proper progress.
     
  3. Street

    Soldato

    Joined: Jan 17, 2005

    Posts: 7,236

    Location: Liverpool

    Wise words! I need to print that out and selotape it to my climbing shoes.
     
  4. jpaul

    Sgarrista

    Joined: Mar 1, 2010

    Posts: 7,610

    yep - especially with climbing you have to suppress that training through-it urge
    otherwise - favourite moto -
     
  5. Street

    Soldato

    Joined: Jan 17, 2005

    Posts: 7,236

    Location: Liverpool

    Haha, that pretty much sums up how I feel! If I do nothing for more than a couple days I start to feel lazy.. At least I can still lift, although limited to pushing exercises, rowing is a no go though.
     
  6. mid_gen

    Sgarrista

    Joined: Dec 20, 2004

    Posts: 8,318

    Training since the new year is starting to pay off, got a nice project route at my gym at the mo, starts with high heel into toe hook, hands up to feet on slopers, traverse onto nasty overhanging pinch, onto a big reach, big high step and crimpy lock-off to haul yourself up....then a fairly easy finish, just a big font style slopey mantle.

    Knackering, but surprised myself by doing all the technical stuff really smooth, and then having the strength to haul myself up....was a little amazed I got up there and promptly fell off because I wasn't concentrating :p

    Next time....
     
  7. mid_gen

    Sgarrista

    Joined: Dec 20, 2004

    Posts: 8,318

    Couple weeks back at a nice spot I found on the Ruhr...

    [​IMG]
     
  8. jpaul

    Sgarrista

    Joined: Mar 1, 2010

    Posts: 7,610

    finally saw free solo on freeview last night
    - the, still, girlfriend who let him run off the end of a belay cord ...... "she's cute, compact, fits in the van and fun to have around"
    - the pages of notes he had / memorised - another level from dance choreography/music notes/theatre plays
    - the ariel drone shots with incredible zoom.
    - that extended body-in crack climb
    unfortunately seems it is not on 4K uhd release, amazon have £10 offer on regular blue-ray.

    ... trango towers next ?

    edit lol
    The World’s Best Belayer -- Petzl
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2019
  9. mid_gen

    Sgarrista

    Joined: Dec 20, 2004

    Posts: 8,318

    Twas good Free Solo, but I enjoyed The Dawn Wall more..great story!

    Pretty happy, busted a plateau the last few weeks, been working hard this year. I've been concentrating on projecting routes beyond my limit and have just sent my 4th black route at my gym (black being the hardest)...no grades but I think it's a solid 7A.
     
  10. thegreysquirrel

    Gangster

    Joined: Dec 1, 2017

    Posts: 181

    I can see why Free Solo got all the attention, it's a much simpler story that anyone can understand, rather than Dawn Wall that was far more complex and in some ways quite melancholic (very much an achievement but at what cost kind of film).

    At the moment I'm quite happy with my progress since starting 6 months ago. Currently have a couple of projects on the go at V5 that I hope to send soon enough, and a very fun no handed slab project that requires a pistol squat I just cannot do.
     
  11. mid_gen

    Sgarrista

    Joined: Dec 20, 2004

    Posts: 8,318

    Took me about 12-18 months to do a pistol squat off both legs...without specifically training it, just from climbing.

    Tbh finger strength is likely to be your limiting factor way before pistol squats.

    I've been climbing a little over two years now and only fairly recently can one arm hang a 3 finger open grip. I've avoided too much specific training and just climbed a lot....touch wood, no injuries yet!
     
  12. MM-Seat

    Hitman

    Joined: Nov 7, 2011

    Posts: 711

    There is a climbing gym opening 10 minutes from my main office later this year, I'm seriously considering trying it for a month and see how I get on with Bouldering for fitness.
     
  13. Cantankerous

    Associate

    Joined: Apr 19, 2013

    Posts: 82

    Location: Scotland

    I've been Bouldering every so often for a couple years now but really starting to get hooked these last couple months. Helped by a friend that keeps dragging along. It's also just around the corner from work and it's great going straight from work. Finger / ligament strength take so long to build up though.
     
  14. mid_gen

    Sgarrista

    Joined: Dec 20, 2004

    Posts: 8,318

    It's great for fitness, I've been bouldering 2 1/2 years now.....I loathe gyms, but bouldering doesn't feel like 'working out', it's just doing a fun sport that you get strong through just doing it. I'm a programmer and work pretty hard but going bouldering after work is a great way to clear your head and relax.

    Don't need to spend loads of money on it gear either, just shoes and a bit of chalk...although I do quite a lot of trips to outdoor bouldering spots now.

    Another big bonus of being into climbing, you can follow the top level sport for free :) It's great being able to watch the IFSC world cup comps at work :)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zE_InotBGo
     
  15. MM-Seat

    Hitman

    Joined: Nov 7, 2011

    Posts: 711

    Anyone CWA/SPA/RCI/MIA/MIC qualified in here?
     
  16. MM-Seat

    Hitman

    Joined: Nov 7, 2011

    Posts: 711

    So... I went and bouldered at The Climbing Hanger this afternoon. was great but, lost some skin on my palm.
     
  17. mid_gen

    Sgarrista

    Joined: Dec 20, 2004

    Posts: 8,318

    When you first start your fingers will be weak and you'll be prone to slipping off holds because you don't have the strength to grip them (plus you won't be using your feet enough). It'll soon happen less and your skin will toughen up a bit as well.

    Once your technique gets better you only have to worry about your finger tips wearing out (unless you're one of those lucky freaks with really hard dry skin).
     
  18. Street

    Soldato

    Joined: Jan 17, 2005

    Posts: 7,236

    Location: Liverpool

    Did you go to the Liverpool one?
     
  19. MM-Seat

    Hitman

    Joined: Nov 7, 2011

    Posts: 711

    I did indeed. Not far from awesome walls as well.
     
  20. Street

    Soldato

    Joined: Jan 17, 2005

    Posts: 7,236

    Location: Liverpool

    Nice one, I'm usually down the Hangar a few times a week. They're opening another one at the Matchworks in Speke soon too.