The Climbing Thread

Yeh, that's the problem.. Being strict with myself. Once the pain goes I'll start up on some grades well within my limit and see how it goes, general advice is 12 weeks before it's back to full strength but hopefully I can ease myself up to that, really be strict with myself and not prolong it. I was going to head to the wall tonight after work but as it's still sore I've purposefully left my gear at home so I don't get tempted!
 
Yeah, its frustrating but ask almost anyone who has been injured for a long time (more than a few months with something reasonably minor) if they wish they had rested/rehabbed it better and they will all say yes. It might feel like you are wasting 2 months training and getting weaker but the alternative is either a proper chronic injury or you will just stay at your current level for a year with a slight injury instead of having 2 months of slight regression followed by 10 months of proper progress.
 
fez said:
Yeah, its frustrating but ask almost anyone who has been injured for a long time (more than a few months with something reasonably minor) if they wish they had rested/rehabbed it better and they will all say yes. It might feel like you are wasting 2 months training and getting weaker but the alternative is either a proper chronic injury or you will just stay at your current level for a year with a slight injury instead of having 2 months of slight regression followed by 10 months of proper progress.
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Wise words! I need to print that out and selotape it to my climbing shoes.
 
yep - especially with climbing you have to suppress that training through-it urge
otherwise - favourite moto -
I've been here a week now. Waiting for a mission, getting softer. Every minute I stay in this room I get weaker. And every minute Charlie squats in the bush he gets stronger.
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Haha, that pretty much sums up how I feel! If I do nothing for more than a couple days I start to feel lazy.. At least I can still lift, although limited to pushing exercises, rowing is a no go though.
 
Training since the new year is starting to pay off, got a nice project route at my gym at the mo, starts with high heel into toe hook, hands up to feet on slopers, traverse onto nasty overhanging pinch, onto a big reach, big high step and crimpy lock-off to haul yourself up....then a fairly easy finish, just a big font style slopey mantle.

Knackering, but surprised myself by doing all the technical stuff really smooth, and then having the strength to haul myself up....was a little amazed I got up there and promptly fell off because I wasn't concentrating :P

Next time....
 
finally saw free solo on freeview last night
- the, still, girlfriend who let him run off the end of a belay cord ...... "she's cute, compact, fits in the van and fun to have around"
- the pages of notes he had / memorised - another level from dance choreography/music notes/theatre plays
- the ariel drone shots with incredible zoom.
- that extended body-in crack climb
unfortunately seems it is not on 4K uhd release, amazon have £10 offer on regular blue-ray.

... trango towers next ?

edit lol
The World’s Best Belayer -- Petzl
 
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Twas good Free Solo, but I enjoyed The Dawn Wall more..great story!

Pretty happy, busted a plateau the last few weeks, been working hard this year. I've been concentrating on projecting routes beyond my limit and have just sent my 4th black route at my gym (black being the hardest)...no grades but I think it's a solid 7A.
 
I can see why Free Solo got all the attention, it's a much simpler story that anyone can understand, rather than Dawn Wall that was far more complex and in some ways quite melancholic (very much an achievement but at what cost kind of film).

At the moment I'm quite happy with my progress since starting 6 months ago. Currently have a couple of projects on the go at V5 that I hope to send soon enough, and a very fun no handed slab project that requires a pistol squat I just cannot do.
 
Took me about 12-18 months to do a pistol squat off both legs...without specifically training it, just from climbing.

Tbh finger strength is likely to be your limiting factor way before pistol squats.

I've been climbing a little over two years now and only fairly recently can one arm hang a 3 finger open grip. I've avoided too much specific training and just climbed a lot....touch wood, no injuries yet!
 
There is a climbing gym opening 10 minutes from my main office later this year, I'm seriously considering trying it for a month and see how I get on with Bouldering for fitness.
 
I've been Bouldering every so often for a couple years now but really starting to get hooked these last couple months. Helped by a friend that keeps dragging along. It's also just around the corner from work and it's great going straight from work. Finger / ligament strength take so long to build up though.
 
MM-Seat said:
There is a climbing gym opening 10 minutes from my main office later this year, I'm seriously considering trying it for a month and see how I get on with Bouldering for fitness.
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It's great for fitness, I've been bouldering 2 1/2 years now.....I loathe gyms, but bouldering doesn't feel like 'working out', it's just doing a fun sport that you get strong through just doing it. I'm a programmer and work pretty hard but going bouldering after work is a great way to clear your head and relax.

Don't need to spend loads of money on it gear either, just shoes and a bit of chalk...although I do quite a lot of trips to outdoor bouldering spots now.

Another big bonus of being into climbing, you can follow the top level sport for free :) It's great being able to watch the IFSC world cup comps at work :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zE_InotBGo
 
MM-Seat said:
So... I went and bouldered at The Climbing Hanger this afternoon. was great but, lost some skin on my palm.
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When you first start your fingers will be weak and you'll be prone to slipping off holds because you don't have the strength to grip them (plus you won't be using your feet enough). It'll soon happen less and your skin will toughen up a bit as well.

Once your technique gets better you only have to worry about your finger tips wearing out (unless you're one of those lucky freaks with really hard dry skin).
 
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