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^ ahh nevermind, wikipedia knows all :)

so on a related note, a mod has to be done for this to accept 96kHz, what about 192kHz?
 
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I'm not sure about 192kHz, and tbh I think 96K is plenty.

Btw, is you want something to test 24/96, NIN's album "the slip" is released for free to download and is in high def (24/96). I can hear a slight difference between (16/44) and (24/96)...
 
woah I just tried to play a NIN song in 96kHz and just got a bunch of crazy static....
 
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ah now I understand another one of p4radox's pics when he says something about a 96kHz mod

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1540942#post1540942
error401 said:
I would normally expect a DAC using this IC/receiver combo to utilize the 96KHz pin on the CS8416 to select a high sample rate mode in the DAC when you apply such a signal. An obvious failing of the design. M4 is the CS4397 pin that puts it in high sample rate mode, you'll need to disconnect it from ground and apply an appropriate signal.

You will need to carefully lift the M4 pin (2) from the PCB (...), and bridge it to the CS8416 96KHz pin (16) with a wire. This pin is an output so shouldn't be connected to anything and you won't need to lift it.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for those. the first link is very helpful since I've been wondering which are the most critical caps to replace that are not part of the output stage (since I've bypassed that).
 
Anyone else have a hot chip in their DAC, not the PSU part, the CS4397. I didn't notice it before but it's hot to touch. Is this normal?
 
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not normal.

IF its hot to touch check continuity between ground and the power rails. Sounds like there make a be a short. there should be no continuity

Is it hot or warm?
 
It's showing a connection between the G pin and +5v. I've just noticed a small chip @RP2 marked as 473 (near the coax in), there are 4 pins each side, but on mine the 4 on the inside have 3 pins bridged. Has a blob of solder fallen on them?

It gets hot, still works though.
 
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This AMP10 is beginning to drive me slowly insane. I've had problems since day one, and now I'm getting sound from it but I can't work out where the noise is coming from.:mad:

I've twisted and straightened out all the wires, re soldered the decoupling caps and used various sources. Still a horrible amount of white noise.:(

I'm think I'll have to start thinking about putting it in the enclosure with the hope that it'll eliminate some noise. I'm not hopeful though...


edit: if a cap blows, does it normally short circuit or open circuit itself? None of my decoupling caps are shorted, but I wonder if any of them have decided to die on me...
 
p4radox said:
This AMP10 is beginning to drive me slowly insane. I've had problems since day one, and now I'm getting sound from it but I can't work out where the noise is coming from.:mad:

I've twisted and straightened out all the wires, re soldered the decoupling caps and used various sources. Still a horrible amount of white noise.:(

I'm think I'll have to start thinking about putting it in the enclosure with the hope that it'll eliminate some noise. I'm not hopeful though...


edit: if a cap blows, does it normally short circuit or open circuit itself? None of my decoupling caps are shorted, but I wonder if any of them have decided to die on me...
Click to expand...

What sort of volume do you get from the amp10? the white noise is apparant with or without an input connected?
 
is it any differant depending on the channal? i mean to say have you tried with left only and right only connected?
 
Both channels have the same noise.

The AMP10 has a mute function yes. I'm using a switch that works fine. As soon as I unmute the hiss appears on both channels.:(
 
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