* The DIY Audio Thread *

gurusan · 12 Sep 2008 at 22:08

^ ahh nevermind, wikipedia knows all

so on a related note, a mod has to be done for this to accept 96kHz, what about 192kHz?

MikeHunt79 · 12 Sep 2008 at 22:13

I'm not sure about 192kHz, and tbh I think 96K is plenty.

Btw, is you want something to test 24/96, NIN's album "the slip" is released for free to download and is in high def (24/96). I can hear a slight difference between (16/44) and (24/96)...

gurusan · 12 Sep 2008 at 22:26

woah I just tried to play a NIN song in 96kHz and just got a bunch of crazy static....

gurusan · 13 Sep 2008 at 10:04

ah now I understand another one of p4radox's pics when he says something about a 96kHz mod

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1540942#post1540942

error401 said:
I would normally expect a DAC using this IC/receiver combo to utilize the 96KHz pin on the CS8416 to select a high sample rate mode in the DAC when you apply such a signal. An obvious failing of the design. M4 is the CS4397 pin that puts it in high sample rate mode, you'll need to disconnect it from ground and apply an appropriate signal.

You will need to carefully lift the M4 pin (2) from the PCB (...), and bridge it to the CS8416 96KHz pin (16) with a wire. This pin is an output so shouldn't be connected to anything and you won't need to lift it.

p4radox · 13 Sep 2008 at 10:40

Yes, that's the one I did. Here're some links for further reading:

http://lampizator.eu/LAMPIZATOR/LAMPUCERA/CD DAC Lampucera lampizator.html

http://rockgrotto.proboards39.com/?board=m&action=display&thread=1672&page=1

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1561987#post1561987

http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=315

gurusan · 13 Sep 2008 at 11:03

Thanks for those. the first link is very helpful since I've been wondering which are the most critical caps to replace that are not part of the output stage (since I've bypassed that).

Katoom · 13 Sep 2008 at 11:06

Anyone else have a hot chip in their DAC, not the PSU part, the CS4397. I didn't notice it before but it's hot to touch. Is this normal?

adamau5 · 13 Sep 2008 at 11:54

not normal.

IF its hot to touch check continuity between ground and the power rails. Sounds like there make a be a short. there should be no continuity

Is it hot or warm?

Katoom · 13 Sep 2008 at 12:06

It's showing a connection between the G pin and +5v. I've just noticed a small chip @RP2 marked as 473 (near the coax in), there are 4 pins each side, but on mine the 4 on the inside have 3 pins bridged. Has a blob of solder fallen on them?

It gets hot, still works though.

p4radox · 13 Sep 2008 at 13:01

This AMP10 is beginning to drive me slowly insane. I've had problems since day one, and now I'm getting sound from it but I can't work out where the noise is coming from. :mad:

I've twisted and straightened out all the wires, re soldered the decoupling caps and used various sources. Still a horrible amount of white noise.

I'm think I'll have to start thinking about putting it in the enclosure with the hope that it'll eliminate some noise. I'm not hopeful though...

edit: if a cap blows, does it normally short circuit or open circuit itself? None of my decoupling caps are shorted, but I wonder if any of them have decided to die on me...

adamau5 · 13 Sep 2008 at 13:06

when you say showing a connection, do you mean full continuity?

Katoom · 13 Sep 2008 at 13:14

On the multi meter set to 2000 ohm, it reads 1164 between G and +5v

adamau5 · 13 Sep 2008 at 13:16

if it settles thats just the caps filling.

hmm, strange, mine isnt warm at all.

Katoom · 13 Sep 2008 at 13:18

Is the RP2 chip bridged on yours?

Kanifee · 13 Sep 2008 at 14:30

p4radox said:
This AMP10 is beginning to drive me slowly insane. I've had problems since day one, and now I'm getting sound from it but I can't work out where the noise is coming from.

I've twisted and straightened out all the wires, re soldered the decoupling caps and used various sources. Still a horrible amount of white noise.

I'm think I'll have to start thinking about putting it in the enclosure with the hope that it'll eliminate some noise. I'm not hopeful though...

edit: if a cap blows, does it normally short circuit or open circuit itself? None of my decoupling caps are shorted, but I wonder if any of them have decided to die on me...

What sort of volume do you get from the amp10? the white noise is apparant with or without an input connected?

p4radox · 13 Sep 2008 at 14:41

damian666 said:
What sort of volume do you get from the amp10? the white noise is apparant with or without an input connected?

I get lots of volume.

The noise is there with and without an input, and is not affected by volume.

Kanifee · 13 Sep 2008 at 15:07

is it any differant depending on the channal? i mean to say have you tried with left only and right only connected?

MikeHunt79 · 13 Sep 2008 at 15:28

All I can suggest is the amp10 section of the forum at 41Hz...

Does the amp 10 have a mute function at all?

p4radox · 13 Sep 2008 at 15:50

Both channels have the same noise.

The AMP10 has a mute function yes. I'm using a switch that works fine. As soon as I unmute the hiss appears on both channels.

MikeHunt79 · 13 Sep 2008 at 16:01

p4radox said:
As soon as I unmute the hiss appears on both channels.

Hmm, well at least it's not there on mute, I'm guessing the issue must be on the input side.

What was your source? Are your power rails good?

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