*** The DIY Audio Thread ***

Associate
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Well this is an old thread! Maybe none of you come here no more but I'll ask anyway. Does anyone know how to isolate centered panned information?
So if one subtractively mixes an audio signal we can cut out all the centered panned information. Like how vocal removers work. This very simple to do with some switches and wires. But is it possible to isolate that center panned information instead?
Searching gets me a million audacity pages and such.
 
Man of Honour
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Just found these in an empty shoebox i just opened. Getting the urge to build them again! :)

Most of the components for the O2 are still available and/or can easily be substituted with a part of the same characteristics the only thing that is a problem to source for the original layout is the DC power socket AFAIK. One thing to watch out for IIRC is that the LED is used as a voltage reference by the amp so you can't just change it out for any random LED unless you have the knowledge to refactor the circuit (I believe it also uses an AC adapter rather than a DC one which is worth nothing as you can kill the op amps plugging a DC one into it).



Thought I'd link mine here as well though this thread seems a bit abandoned :( always interesting to see what people are upto.

My own take on a buffered cmoy (with quite a lot of researching other people's designs):

rukxItt.png

(Really hard enclosure to take a good photograph of that looks as good as it does in the flesh)

RgN3VKi.jpg

(Work in progress shot of the circuit inside)

OPA2228 gain stage into a NJM4556 buffer, power supply/rail splitter aside its loosely similar to the O2 in concept but with a fully regulated/filtered dc virtual ground instead of the ac-ac setup on the O2. All power supply capacitors are Panasonic FM series, anything near the audio path Nichicon FG (no electrolytics in the signal path) - dc blocking caps are Cornell Dubilier 0.47uf Polypropylene (not cheap for a reasonable quality 0.47uf in that physical size - miss my Nichicon Polypropylenes but they took up half the circuit board and then some).

Drives my HD600s very nicely - the 2228 is good for longer listening sessions but if I want higher quality audio its swapped out for the AD8066.

6.3mm and 3.5mm outputs on the front (the 3.5mm is disabled if something is plugged into the 6.3mm jack) and RCA inputs on the back.


EDIT: I am NOT an electronics engineer or audio engineer so be nice if you spot any glaring errors in the pics, etc. :p
 
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Man of Honour
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Little project for the weekend building a USB DAC - not my first attempt but the previous one could have gone better.

Using the TI PCM2902C http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/pcm2902c.pdf keeps things simple (no worries about coding device drivers, etc.) though does mean its limited to 16bit/48KHz however as it is an SSOP-28 device its a bit fun and games to solder at the best of times (0.65mm pin spacing).

My own mixture of schematic and layout guide (EDIT - not confirmed working so don't use as a guide):

##removed##

Pretty much based off the typical application example in the datasheet with some minor changes.

(I won't be using C9/10 on the main outputs as its intended to be connected to an amp that already has filter caps on the input).

EDIT: Work in progress:

cVm7Nf3.jpg

PCM2902C attached to a breakout board - hopefully went successfully - no obvious solder bridges (couple of bits that look like it in the pic are reflections off the flux still on the board).

oJLD2qn.jpg

Circuit board mostly assembled - haven't had quite as much time as I'd hoped to work on it but almost done (just connecting up input/output sockets really) - then testing and putting together an enclosure if it all works.

---

Bah - "USB Device not recognised" - everything I can test quickly seems to check out so possible fried the chip or not a good connection on one of the pins :S don't have time to get any deeper into it today.
 
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Joined
1 Oct 2006
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Epic thread bump, can't believe this one has laid dormant for so long.

I'm after an enclosure to build a Pi based Moode system, hifiberry DAC etc. Ideally I want to put a touchscreen in as well, I have a 7" waveshare screen but I think that going to be a challenge to fit in a reasonable sized enclosure unless it's top mount.

Any ideas?
 
Soldato
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13 Jan 2003
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23,666
Now the guitar is playable .. I've started eyeing up a guitar amp (tube) that is based on the full voltage Mashall JCM800 but with the rear end setup for EF80 pentodes in push pull giving a grand total of 2W.. then using a 95dB/W sensitive speaker to try to bring the full volume down but will probably use a power sink to drop that volume further.
 
Soldato
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i am in the process of building some w5 clone speakers, i should have had them finished them last weekend but have come down with a nasty bug

as i dont have a cnc a very nice guy did the shell for me once i gave him my files and oak timber i wanted to use , i could not have milled them by hand

hbfM1kCl.jpg
 
Soldato
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Associate
Joined
19 Aug 2005
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1,373
Location
Beds, UK
i am in the process of building some w5 clone speakers, i should have had them finished them last weekend but have come down with a nasty bug

as i dont have a cnc a very nice guy did the shell for me once i gave him my files and oak timber i wanted to use , i could not have milled them by hand

hbfM1kCl.jpg
They look lovely, whats the spec of the speakers? and who did the woodwork?
 
Soldato
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a dark place
They look lovely, whats the spec of the speakers? and who did the woodwork?
the step files on my printables page, no one local to me that offered cnc services would do it for me the fella that helped did it out of goodwill with his hobbyist cnc machine. i did the design working off al pics i could find off various hobbyist diy audio forums i think theres a swedish/dutch forums that took apart an actual w5

you could easily 3d print a template from the step file and hand route it, i did the design based of various diy clone pictures i could find.

spec wise its listed on the boenicke site https://boenicke-audio.ch/products/loudspeakers/w5/ but the Fe85 driver the clones are using are discontinued and hard to find

you will find all the info you need @ the diy audio thread https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/boenicke-w5-clone.310367/
 
Joined
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the step files on my printables page, no one local to me that offered cnc services would do it for me the fella that helped did it out of goodwill with his hobbyist cnc machine. i did the design working off al pics i could find off various hobbyist diy audio forums i think theres a swedish/dutch forums that took apart an actual w5

you could easily 3d print a template from the step file and hand route it, i did the design based of various diy clone pictures i could find.

spec wise its listed on the boenicke site https://boenicke-audio.ch/products/loudspeakers/w5/ but the Fe85 driver the clones are using are discontinued and hard to find

you will find all the info you need @ the diy audio thread https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/boenicke-w5-clone.310367/

They are stunning looking speakers.

I have a Shapeoko 3, but I think they're a spot bigger than I could fit on the bed sadly.
 
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