The nervous wait to exchange....

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Don't fret too much over asbestos - guttering (like roofing) is easy to remove with less "paperwork" so to speak (so cheap) providing it is not being cut. If there is asbestos in the ceilings (as there likely is in any textured ceiling finish on a house pre-1990), then it's only a problem if you plan on removing the ceilings. If you want smooth, just skim over them. If you have to remove as part of larger works, you would be surprised with it not being a costly as you think.

The only other place you may get asbestos would be the adhesive for marley floor tiles, fire rope around fireplaces and some really old window cills (but I suspect not in a domestic property).

There are many reasons not to buy a house, but asbestos isn't one of them. Completely safe unless being cut or removed to facilitate other works and not as costly as everyone thinks to get dealt with properly.

Saying "completely safe" is somewhat misleading though. Yes its relatively harmless if its in good condition and you don't disturb it. But only having NO asbestos anywhere could you say completely safe.
 
Having a valuation on our house today as requested by our lenders (for additional lending), seems that it's a quick inspection of the property and not highly detailed - looking more for structural defects?
 
Having a valuation on our house today as requested by our lenders (for additional lending), seems that it's a quick inspection of the property and not highly detailed - looking more for structural defects?

When I spoke to the surveyor that did our valuation, it’s not even that. It’s basically just checking the house is a house and habitable. E.g. there is a kitchen present and a bathroom present. The only other thing they look at is the general condition and all the rooms listed are there. They were in and out in 5 minutes flat, if even that. The rest of the valuation is done using historic sales data back in the office.
 
Would damp issues put you off buying a house guys?

A friend had a survey back and it shows that there are areas of damp on ground floor walls and it would cost £1,500 to put right, plus, costs on top to get the place decorated and rads put back on etc.
 
Unfortunately moving to rental is not an option as have 2 kids, first just started early years school and second is 4 months old. There are no rental homes within a budget (0 results for a 3 bed at £1000pcm) and moving in with my parents would really be trying on all of us. Especially with Covid too.

Going to book an asbestos test ASAP and at least put our minds at rest. It'll just be what next if its a bad report. Can't afford the cost and time to choose another. Already paid for 2 house surveys now and now this asbestos survey and the washing machine packed up last week so had to buy another.

Just pay for the survey. You need to be objective and not fall victim to the sunk cost fallacy.

I'm waiting for the results of a structural survey (£570) that came off the back of a HomeBuyer report that I don't trust (£500). Also have a woodworm survey (£60) and CCTV drainage survey (£250) pending.

It's an idiotic, expensive, stressful process, but utimately it's less stressful and expensive than ending up with a money pit house you can't sell.
 
Would damp issues put you off buying a house guys?

A friend had a survey back and it shows that there are areas of damp on ground floor walls and it would cost £1,500 to put right, plus, costs on top to get the place decorated and rads put back on etc.

What’s the proposed ‘fix’?

Damp is almost always caused by water getting in from the outside or failing to get out from the inside. ‘Rising damp’ is a bit of a myth. The fix can often be very simple and cheap.

The former is almost always caused by dodgy gutters, leaky roofs or rain bouncing back from a drive/pavement onto the house above the damp proof membrane (ground level too high).

The latter is almost always caused by inadequate ventilation in the rooms or wall cavity. It can be as simple as people drying washing inside or no extractor fan in a shower room. Alternatively it can be something more complex like poor installation of cavity wall insulation or blocking up all the vents/natural draft points which were originally in the property (e.g. replacing wooden single glazed windows with UPVC double glazing without trickle vents).
 
Renovated house and damp detected on various walls. Fix, is apparently removing plaster and injecting the walls. Their mortgage company expect works to be completed as per damp survey report.
 
It’s hard to say without more information but it’s likely to return if the root cause isn’t addressed (e.g. moisture getting in or failing to get out). Have they identified where the water is getting in or failing to get out? When I say water, that also includes water vapour which we all breathe out loads of every day or from wet laundry, towels etc.

There are loads of damp threads on there to look through.
 
It’s hard to say without more information but it’s likely to return if the root cause isn’t addressed (e.g. moisture getting in or failing to get out). Have they identified where the water is getting in or failing to get out? When I say water, that also includes water vapour which we all breathe out loads of every day or from wet laundry, towels etc.

There are loads of damp threads on there to look through.

No idea. All i know is that the house has recently been renovated. Dot and dab onto existing 'stone' walls. Says chimney breast has very high moisture reading and alcoves.
 
When I spoke to the surveyor that did our valuation, it’s not even that. It’s basically just checking the house is a house and habitable. E.g. there is a kitchen present and a bathroom present. The only other thing they look at is the general condition and all the rooms listed are there. They were in and out in 5 minutes flat, if even that. The rest of the valuation is done using historic sales data back in the office.

Thanks for replying and that's good to know. We are looking at getting the bathroom renovated next - it is perfectly useable/functional just not very pleasant as the wall tiles are old and painted over, some of the lino is missing where there was an airing cupboard. They are coming round in the next hour so should know soon if there are any concerns.
 
Just pay for the survey. You need to be objective and not fall victim to the sunk cost fallacy.

I'm waiting for the results of a structural survey (£570) that came off the back of a HomeBuyer report that I don't trust (£500). Also have a woodworm survey (£60) and CCTV drainage survey (£250) pending.

It's an idiotic, expensive, stressful process, but utimately it's less stressful and expensive than ending up with a money pit house you can't sell.

Going to, just got quote back of £400 and whilst replying I rechecked the homebuyers survey report and it mentions artex only in hall, landing and bedroom 3. So asked to target those areas, the kitchen (as it needs ripping out and new one put in anyway) and the external guttering. Hoping all that included in the samples/tests for the £400 + vat of course.

I think we're thinking about this far too much and we could potentially lose an otherwise good home.
 
No idea. All i know is that the house has recently been renovated. Dot and dab onto existing 'stone' walls. Says chimney breast has very high moisture reading and alcoves.

I’m not an expert and I haven’t seen the property so the appropriate level of salt should be applied. But I would be looking at those renovations in more detail, what was done, how it was done and if anything is in place to account for the old building fabric. It’s very possible that the renovations are the cause of the issue rather than a failure of the original building fabric.

Old houses aren’t designed to be sealed up like modern ones, stone walls will need to breathe and need a mechanism to eject moisture.

It’s a really common mistake people make is to renovate older houses, seal them up and stick in a load of insulation without taking into account any ventilation. Damp then quickly sets in because the moisture can’t get out.
 
I’m not an expert and I haven’t seen the property so the appropriate level of salt should be applied. But I would be looking at those renovations in more detail, what was done, how it was done and if anything is in place to account for the old building fabric. It’s very possible that the renovations are the cause of the issue rather than a failure of the original building fabric.

Old houses aren’t designed to be sealed up like modern ones, stone walls will need to breathe and need a mechanism to eject moisture.

It’s a really common mistake people make is to renovate older houses, seal them up and stick in a load of insulation without taking into account any ventilation. Damp then quickly sets in because the moisture can’t get out.

Agreed
 
Going to, just got quote back of £400 and whilst replying I rechecked the homebuyers survey report and it mentions artex only in hall, landing and bedroom 3. So asked to target those areas, the kitchen (as it needs ripping out and new one put in anyway) and the external guttering. Hoping all that included in the samples/tests for the £400 + vat of course.

I think we're thinking about this far too much and we could potentially lose an otherwise good home.

Unfortunately, unless you have some local tradesman that you trust to give you an honest opinion, you just have to look at the evidence available, and make a judgement call. Same situation in the house I'm buying, the HomeBuyer's report was a car crash. But after weeks of extra surveys and going back to inspect everything he raised, I'm increasingly of the opinion that bar a bit of standard maintenance, it's fundamentally a sound property and a good buy.

It's in a very sought after village there's only been 3 nice properties there come up in the last year....so I'm also bearing in mind that everything about the house can be fixed, except it's location.
 
Hi folks, I am at the very earliest stages of buying (for the first time) the flat I've been renting for the past few years. The landlord has decided to sell, I like the flat and the area and appear to be able to afford it so rather than go through additional pain of finding somewhere else to rent/buy, I've decided to just stay where I am and make it my own. I've spoken to the landlord over the past few days, agreed a price we're happy with that includes some of the existing furnishings (sofa, bed, dining table and chairs etc) and the sale will be completed privately as there's no estate agent involved.

Having spoken with him he obviously knows his way around this process far better than I do so I'm just looking to make sure I protect myself and get it all right. Is there any advice at this stage anyone can offer? I've had a decision-in-principle from Nationwide for the agreed price so I'm currently just following up with them on a mortgage application. I need to find a solicitor and I've got the details of his, and he's said he'll speak with the letting agents regarding the end of my tenancy and skipping the usual exit process, inventory etc. Is there anything else I should be considering at this point or should be aware of? I've got the obvious benefit of having already lived here so I know the property and what's right and wrong with it so there's less scope for any surprises there which should hopefully make life easier.
 
Unfortunately, unless you have some local tradesman that you trust to give you an honest opinion, you just have to look at the evidence available, and make a judgement call. Same situation in the house I'm buying, the HomeBuyer's report was a car crash. But after weeks of extra surveys and going back to inspect everything he raised, I'm increasingly of the opinion that bar a bit of standard maintenance, it's fundamentally a sound property and a good buy.

It's in a very sought after village there's only been 3 nice properties there come up in the last year....so I'm also bearing in mind that everything about the house can be fixed, except it's location.

Surveyors are always extremely over cautious in what they put down on paper.
 
Renovated house and damp detected on various walls. Fix, is apparently removing plaster and injecting the walls. Their mortgage company expect works to be completed as per damp survey report.
Damp detected how? With an electronic damp meter? Or visible signs of it?

If it's just with an electronic damp meter read this: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/forums/posts/33864560/

And refer them to the British Standard in there. Also ask for any evidence that the damp proof course has failed. The damp industry is a bit of a con. As has been said above, the majority of problems with damp on old houses is people applying modern techniques to old houses. Blocking up chimneys, sealing drafty windows + doors, wrapping everything in insulation, sealing old breathable lime mortar with cement render, people building up the ground level outside above the damp proof course, bad gutters/drainage etc.

It is unfathomably rare for a damp proof course to actually fail, and this is the only scenario in which the injections make any sense.

The plaster they've used over the masonry is most likely the culprit and/or ventilation.
 
Renovated house and damp detected on various walls. Fix, is apparently removing plaster and injecting the walls. Their mortgage company expect works to be completed as per damp survey report.

If the damp is being detected on the freshly dotted and dabbed walls then it could be that they have plastered/boarded all the way to the floor behind the skirting boards, effectively bridging the old DPC. Have seen this a few times.

(Or it could just be the usual overly cautious 20 second homebuyer meter test that always flags non zero readings. In which case get a timber and damp survey to assess if there is really a problem or not. We've just been through this on our sale. Homebuyer flagged damp, timber/damp specialist follow-up said there was nothing wrong)
 
If the damp is being detected on the freshly dotted and dabbed walls then it could be that they have plastered/boarded all the way to the floor behind the skirting boards, effectively bridging the old DPC. Have seen this a few times.

(Or it could just be the usual overly cautious 20 second homebuyer meter test that always flags non zero readings. In which case get a timber and damp survey to assess if there is really a problem or not. We've just been through this on our sale. Homebuyer flagged damp, timber/damp specialist follow-up said there was nothing wrong)

Yea, i think my mate did say that the surveyor said the plasterboard was right down onto the concrete floor. Plus, there was high readings on the chimney breast. Could be salts?
 
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