This is what a neglected loop looks like.......

[TnBDelta]

Hi all,

I previously put together my first custom-loop under this thread:

New to WC; Prebuild upgrade

Hi all complete novice here, I would like to premise my request for advice with some background information. Usually, I would build my own AIO WC PCs, however as you can probably imagine I went with a prebuild this time around and here are the specifications: CASE: Lian-Li PC-O11 Dynamic XL...

forums.overclockers.co.uk

Build:
Case: Lian-Li 011 XL
CPU: 5900X, RAM: 32GB, GPU: MSI 3080 10G

WC parts:
Radiators: X2 EK Water Blocks EK-Coolstream PE360
Pump/Res: O11D Distro plate G1
CPU Water block: EK-Quantum Magnitude D-RGB AM4 - Nickel PI
GPU Water block: EK-Quantum Vector Trio RTX 3080/3090 D-RGB - Nickel + Acetal
GPU Backplate: EK-Quantum Vector Trio RTX 3080/3090 Backplate

I didn't realise its nearly been 2 years since then! Time flies. Anyway, I'm doing my first (I know, I should have done it sooner...) round of maintenance following a slow-leak that recently was getting worse. I have drained the loop and removed all tubing and the GPU. What I need to do:

1. Full system clean!
2. Remove both upper and lower radiators and clean them, You'll see some blue dye where the leak has ruined the bottom middle fan's LED.
3. Move the G1 Distro plate upwards.
3. Remove and clean the CPU block then reinstall with 90 degree rotation on the block itself....
4. Bend all new tubing and replace any dodgy looking fitting O-rings (Both ordered)
5. Install replacement fan on the bottom middle radiator and 3 additional ones in PULL and add back on the lower dust filters..... /facepalm.
6. Disassemble the GPU block to figure out where that leak is coming from!

Some pics of the horror:

Now down to my silly questions:

1. Is it worth upgrading the G1 Distro plate to a newer offering?
IE: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-mana-g2-pc-o11d-evo-ddc-d-rgb-distribution-plate
2. Should I turn the rear-exhaust into an in-take?
3. The GPU will likely still sag even with less fittings (Hoping I can get away with less fittings this time around), Any ideas on how to support the GPU with a radiator below it?

I'll try to update this thread with more pics as I go along.

 

[TnBDelta]

You need more positive air pressure inside the case... In 2 years I have almost no dust inside my case.
Higher air intake than outtake and make sure dust filters are on the intake fans. This will mean air will be trying to escape from all the small gaps which makes it so dust has no way in

Yeah - I had no dust filters on; Additionally I'm going to get 3 extra fans on the bottom radiator to help pull even more air in.

 

[TnBDelta]

Pulled apart the GPU; No water damage on either side of the PCB. The block itself looks like its leaking instead. I've pulled that off and begun cleaning.

 

[TnBDelta]

Update:
I've pulled both the top/bottom radiators and disconnected their fans; Cleaning everything at the moment and also pulled the PSU with all cables as it was a cable spaghetti back there. I've got an Anti-Sag Bracket + 4 extra SP120's coming this week in addition to replacement Kynonaunt thermal paste for the CPU/GPU.

After working through the bottom/top radiators + fans clean-up I'll remove the CPU block to give that a clean and rotate it.

 

[TnBDelta]

Have you found the point of the leak?
Never had a gpu block fail on me
Fortunately

I tightened the block screws up more - I suspect that will solve it due to water coming through them coupled with a deep cleaning. I did not notice anything unusual on the inside of the block, the gasket looked fine.

@srekal34 thanks for the suggestion, I've ordered an anti-sag bracket.

Progress update:
Cleaned both radiators (inside and out) and all of the fans... mounted the fans back on the bottom radiator. I've got lots of deliveries due this week to fix this build; Aside from tubing, o-rings, a few extra fittings, 4 120SP + hub fans (To replace a ruined fan and add 3 extra pull fans on the bottom radiator), new thermal paste for GPU/CPU block.

I took apart the CPU block and gave that a clean, its not perfect but wayyyyy better than it was, I had hoped to rotate the inlet/outlets by 90 degrees but according to the manual only 180 degree is possible....

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/EK-IM/EK-IM-3831109819265.pdf

 

[TnBDelta]

Random question whilst I put the build back together, I'm trying to use a double rotary to avoid having both of the runs off the CPU overlapped. But the second part of the double rotatary is ever so slightly angled... My first time using these fittings so wanted to ask if this was okay or should I retry another rune instead?

 

[TnBDelta]

Ideally I wouldn't want a double 90 degree at the block
Adds a bit of restriction
Though maybe not too much
Never actually tried it for that reason
obviously depends where the in and out ports are
on cpu block
and where the tubes need to go
Also depends on the tubing
When I just redid mine turned out ek zmt/epdm
Can bend a lot better than my clear tubing
Without kinking or collapsing
I managed to remove all the extra fittings I used
Previously

To avoid overlapping/crossing over
Due to where the in/out ports are on my cpu block
And front distro
I mounted the cpu block upside down/rotated 180 degrees
That swapped which side in/out would be on

Thank you, I'll redo that section. Currently working on the GPU runs at the moment.

 

[TnBDelta]

Now I can't decide how that run should go lol. I was thinking of doing another 28mm extender, with a single 90 pointed upwards towards the top of the case, then tubing it from there (Would be two 90's to get the distro plate... hmmm

 

[TnBDelta]

Just went with the overlap instead in the end. Might have to pick-up a new CPU Block that actually rotates 90' in the future.. Also need to clean the tubing (I re-used three old lines to save some tubing as I'm still rubbish at bending em. I was going to clean out the Distro until I learnt the EK/Left side that has the block cover is glued on... (Hence the query about replacing it).