Those with custom loops what coolant do you use and why?

Bone9 said:
Seams like mayhem's is the way to go then. Was just put off from Jayztwocents utube vids etc.

Do you guys flush out your rads before installing for the first time? If so what with? Do I need to do any other prep on a new loop?

Thanks :)
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It's a good idea to use Mayhems Blitz part 1 on any new rads as it cleans out far more flux etc than any other method I've tried.

Also if you're going to use any of Mayhems fluids especially pastel make sure you clean your loop with their Blitz part 2 as it sets the loop at the right ph to avoid issues like fluid separation.
 
I filled my rads about three quarters full with boiling water, shook vigorously and drained. Repeated this about 5 times per rad and then did a final flush of deionised water. Drained the deionised into a clean bowl and checked that it reasonably clean, if so then I was done.

Never used blitz - can't justify the cost.
 
I use cheap deionised water with a couple of drops of mayhems biocide

I use a mix of 2nd hand parts, but its all copper / nickle where it touches the water, though who knows whats in the solder in the rads?

I probably wouldn't make a special effort to drain it unless it had been a real long tim e (3 years maybe?) but I'm always changing things, so its not longer than a year so far
 
XT-1 cause i got it free with my Mayhems rads :) before that i just used water+biocide cause it was cheap and lasted for years without changing.
 
Mayhems fan boi here using pastel premixed. Rad and block are copper and fittings are brass. It does everything so I don't need to use my brain so much, just clean, fill and go. No faffing with kill coils, biocide and so on. My loop is simple so only clean it every 18 months or so.

I met the meyhems guys a while back when Rich O'Neill ran the watercooling workshop and was very impressed by the passion and attention to detail they put into what they do.
 
Di-ionised water and there might even be a silver coil languishing at the bottom of my reservoir. Blocks are a mix, copper (cpu) and nickle plated copper (gpu and fittings). I couldnt honestly tell you what was inside the rads, could be bare brass or copper.

I generally drain the loop and check/clean the cpu block about once every 18-24 months. If there is gunk in the system that is where it will gather.
 
Distilled water, with a silver kill coil. The metals? Irrelevant. Maintenance would consist of a yearly flush and change of water, which coincides with a GPU upgrade. Next maintenance run for me will be when the 1080ti becomes available.
 
De-ionised water with kill coil. I do have Mayhems emerald green dye in there too.

Due a clean out and might switch to pastel green instead
 
Toyota LLC (long life coolant, AKA the pink one).

Loop is just your normal metals, Copper, Nickel, Tin, Brass, Steel. Been about 2 years since I last touched the loop, everythings fine (to be expected, the coolant has a 5 year service life and that's under significantly more demanding conditions). No gunk but then again I use decent Tygon tubing not cheap plasticiser crap.
 
Shilz said:
XSPC EC6 Clear UV Coolant with a silver kill coil. :)
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No need to add anything extra see below-


Specifications:
. Pre-mixed with No Need for Additional Additives - Ships ready for use
. Corrosion protection for Copper, Brass, Steel, Nickel and Aluminum Proven to ASTM D3306 and BS6580 standards
. ***Prevents build up of Algae & growth within in your liquid cooled system***
. Low Electrical Conductivity
. Electrical Conductivity <2uS/cm at 24C * (most competitors struggle to reach <10æS/cm)
. Non-Toxic and RoHS Compliant
. Freezing Point - 6C
. 85% Bio-degradable Within 30 Days
. Available in a none coloured option or an expanding range of *non toxic UV colours
. 2 Year Shelf-life
. EC6 is a true Eco Friendly Product

Using it myself.
 
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