All the operators now offer HSDPA - coverage varies though. Of course you need an HSDPA device and it only improves the downlink. Depending on the stage of network rollout and the device you have the downlink speed will be anything from 1.2, 1.8, 3.6, 7.3, 10.2, 14.4 Mbit/s. This data rate is shared between all users so you'll only see close to that if you’re the only user in the cell instantaneously. The uplink remains unchanged at 64 or 128 kbit/s. Some operators might be offering 384 kbit/s in the uplink now.
Without HSDPA 3G downlink is good for 384 kbit/s close to the mast, 128 kbit/s at cell edge.
Next year we’ll see HSUPA which takes the uplink to over 5 Mbit/s eventually.