Time to journey down water cooling...

Another thing that i found worked better than tilting the case around is to remove the rad from the case and move the rad around while the case is sat as it would be used (eg upright) this way the pump doesnt run out of coolent as easy and the rad can be the lowest part with air shooting to the res.

Hope that helps good build loving the progress video
 
kerrgreg said:
Another thing that i found worked better than tilting the case around is to remove the rad from the case and move the rad around while the case is sat as it would be used (eg upright) this way the pump doesnt run out of coolent as easy and the rad can be the lowest part with air shooting to the res.

Hope that helps good build loving the progress video
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Nice idea that thank you :D
 
You get the fun task of doing all this in reverse when you drain the system too haha.

The number of times Ive thought the systems all drained and sorted but then picked up the rad and got another load of coolant pouring out on me haha.
 
Ducky Spud said:
You get the fun task of doing all this in reverse when you drain the system too haha.

The number of times Ive thought the systems all drained and sorted but then picked up the rad and got another load of coolant pouring out on me haha.
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Trust me I am relishing the moment when that happens :D

Get ready though I am uploading another video on youtube...think you might like this one :D
 
Nice thread m8, im considering trying out watercooling in my new rig once i've got the cash, it great to see that with the advice given by the more experienced members here anyone can give it a go.
 
Just looked at your latest vid, how much did you clean your rad out before you set everything up? There is one shot of the res in your vid when you can see tiny bits whoosing in the res, these are probably bubbles. Its hard to tell but these could also be very fine "silt" which is usually from solder flux which hasn't been fully flushed. This stuff can easily be mistaken for tiny bubbles. You can tell for sure when you switch the power off, if it is solid residue it will sort of float about when the water stops moving, whereas bubbles would tend to rise. Also, looking at your loop config again, you best method to bleed would be to put the base on its back, i.e. the side where the mouse/kb/psu power leads all plug in, that wants to be on the bottom, making sure the res has enough water to ensure the pump inside is totally submerged. If you position the case like this whilst filling the rad inlet/outlet are in the right orientation. You mention a couple of times above about the pump stopping cos its ran out of water, you really shouldn't be doing that as it is not good for a pump to run it dry. When you tilt and move the case it is critical you turn the power off if it looks like the fluid level is going to go below the pump inlet, i.e. the classic flip on/off maneuver.
 
Bubo said:
Just looked at your latest vid, how much did you clean your rad out before you set everything up? There is one shot of the res in your vid when you can see tiny bits whoosing in the res, these are probably bubbles. Its hard to tell but these could also be very fine "silt" which is usually from solder flux which hasn't been fully flushed. This stuff can easily be mistaken for tiny bubbles. You can tell for sure when you switch the power off, if it is solid residue it will sort of float about when the water stops moving, whereas bubbles would tend to rise. Also, looking at your loop config again, you best method to bleed would be to put the base on its back, i.e. the side where the mouse/kb/psu power leads all plug in, that wants to be on the bottom, making sure the res has enough water to ensure the pump inside is totally submerged. If you position the case like this whilst filling the rad inlet/outlet are in the right orientation. You mention a couple of times above about the pump stopping cos its ran out of water, you really shouldn't be doing that as it is not good for a pump to run it dry. When you tilt and move the case it is critical you turn the power off if it looks like the fluid level is going to go below the pump inlet, i.e. the classic flip on/off maneuver.
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The rad is brand new and its definitely not slit in the res, they are indeed bubbles cos when I turn it off its as clear as day...as for the tilting thing, I did exactly that as well...moved it about turned it on and off but still the liquid was not moving through...but dont worry as I have said I have bought more coolant so when that arrives I shall definitely be doing more thorough tilting and such...:D
 
Tubing looks tidier mate. Once you stick some more feser in there the air will sort itself out. I expect your temps will get even better once theres no air in there and with the voltage your running 4.5Ghz looks possible.
 
.:SAmSuNG:. said:
Tubing looks tidier mate. Once you stick some more feser in there the air will sort itself out. I expect your temps will get even better once theres no air in there and with the voltage your running 4.5Ghz looks possible.
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Thats what I like to hear. Thanks mate :D
 
Well guys, I have done what I set out to achieve (more or less lol). I put more coolant in this evening and right from the off the bubbles cleared. I had to take the CPU block off the CPU briefly to allow further air to escape and well, just look at the pics below :D

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Res almost full
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I did some heavy testing. Got upto 4.5GHz but crashed whilst running Vantage as Prime wouldnt run. For now its sitting very pretty at 4.3GHz and I am very very happy with it. Temps still in the lower 40s on idle and still not going anywhere near 80C when running Prime. As I use it solely for gaming I know I dont have to worry about that anyway.

Would like to thank you all for watching this thread and my videos. It's been a journey and a half. Next step, the GPU but that wont happen for a couple of months at least even though I already have the XSPC 4870X2 block now :D
 
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rick fowler said:
i love this set up mate glad i found yours you wanna spec my pc for a water rig lol.
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Haha...oh God where to start ok here goes:

This is for the CPU loop:
CPU block: EK Supreme Plexi with 1366 plate Core i7
Res/pump: XSPC 750 dual bay res/pump
Radiator: XSPC 240mm
Tubing: 4m TFC 3/8"ID 1/2"OD clear tubing
Fittings: 6x TFC 3/8"ID 1/2"OD compression fittings
Coolant: TFC 1L UV blue coolant

The GPU loop is pretty much the same except:
GPU block: XSPC 4870X2 Acetal full cover block
Radiator: XSPC 360mm radiator
Res/pump: XSPC 450 res/pump combo

Notice the trend? lol...XSPC for me :D

Hope that helps mate.

Jezzer said:
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I like it...I see you cooled the chipset, CPU and GPU all in one loop. Nice one :D
 
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