Tubs

Shamrock

Shamrock

Shamrock

Soldato
Joined
24 Jul 2003
Posts
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Location
floating down the Liffey
Who has tubular wheels?

What are your thoughts on living with them? What is your contingency for a puncture during a ride? (sealant or pre-glued spare)

What is required (rims, tubs, glue) and is there a convenient guide you've found on the whole install process?

Cheers!
 
I have some tubs but I only use them for racing.
They are too impractical to use as daily wheels.

It's not too complicated to glue the tyres onto the rims, it just takes a long time (3-4 days for a brand new tyre)
You need to pre-stretch the tyre for at least 24 hours.
Put a layer of glue on the tyre and a layer on the rim, leave for a few hours to dry.
put another layer on the tyre and fit to rim.
Inflate and leave at least 24 hours to dry.

There's loads of guides online to show you how to do it.
 
Me.

+ Lots lighter than clinchers
+ usually cheaper than clincher wheels
+ better ride quality
+ if you get a puncture you can ride on as it goes slowly flat rather than blowing out

- gluing takes a few days but new Magic Mastik might reduce this, not much information about how good it is yet. Mastik One is the best/only cement to use.
- if you get a flat you have to use sealant or change it
- tubular tyres are expensive

My contingency is getting a lift home from someone else at racing or the wife.

The two flats I've got I rode home and found them flat the day after.

Install process.

Stretch tyres on old rims (clincher rims will work for this).

Lightly sand rim with 1000 grade paper then clean with acetone.
One coat of cement on rim.
24 hrs later one on rim and tyre.
24 hours later one on rim, (some say on tyre too) then mount tyre 5 minutes later.

You need rims, glue, brushes, acetone, rags. You can put your wheels in the frame to glue, but a wheel stand would be better.
 
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Cool, doesn't necessarily sound too bad.

I'm considering them for my "nice" bike. Won't be racing them or anything so it'd be purely to get blingy, light wheels. Carbon clinchers just seem a heavy compromise, although I have some on my TT bike which is probably the only valid use for CCs.
 
I have Tufo tubs. Punctures are different because the 'inner tube' is moulded into the casing, unlike normal tubs which are separate. I carry a can of Vittoria Pit Stop instant tyre repair for emergencies. The S33 is also quite a tough tyre. They're stuck on with Tub Tape - really, couldn't be easier.

I wouldn't normally recommend tubs because modern clinchers are so good, but I tend to ride classic bikes and there are far more good quality vintage tubular rims left than there are for clinchers. Tufo tubs seem to be the perfect way of making daily use of them without the worry of puncture repairs.
 
Shamrock said:
Cool, doesn't necessarily sound too bad.

I'm considering them for my "nice" bike. Won't be racing them or anything so it'd be purely to get blingy, light wheels. Carbon clinchers just seem a heavy compromise, although I have some on my TT bike which is probably the only valid use for CCs.
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It will suck if you get a flat and get left behind on your fast bunch ride.

You can carry a pre glued spare, remove the flat tyre and fit that then continue as long as you corner slowly. That is provided you can get the tyre off the rim.

I was going to buy Roval CLX 40 clincher rims as they are semi deep, not too heavy (<1400g) and not too expensive. Most clinchers are 1600+ which is too heavy IMO for racing.
 
I also have them for racing, and general riding if I have no other options, or just want to ride as fast as possible.

In general they are faff to get sorted, but once done in theory you shouldn't have much trouble after that.

They're obvioulsy lighter and roll better, and you can kind of ride after they deflate too, as they tend not to pop like a clincher might.

If I ride them, I carry co2 and a spare tyre, which is small enough to fit in jersey pocket.

I wouldn't really recomend them unless racing to be honest, clinchers are good enough and you're way less likely to be stranded, as someone always has a spare tube if you don't. Not many people going to be carrying tubs around.

I'm close to moving on from my tubs, as while I like them, I'm getting annoyed with the pucntures I've had recently and the cost of tyres. Rarely seems to be any discount on anything decent, and its usually going to be £40-£50 tyre depending.
 
Use them for my TT, bit short sighted but I actually carry no puncture repair or pump when I've got them, just have to rely on getting a lift! :S Should really think about that.

I didn't have the problems Berger did mounting them and they've been fairly solid since I replaced my disc one last year. But I would only recommend them for racing tbh, as they're such a faff, but the benefits are there for that type of riding.
 
Clinchers are probably a wise choice.
It's fine in a race where you have a neutral service car to give you a wheel but if you're just out riding on your own and you puncture a tub, you'll be stuck.
Especially if it starts raining - then, even if you do have a spare, it's very difficult to get it on without getting the glue/tape wet.
 
I went for some Campag Bora One 35 dark label. These will go on the Rose and my Mavic Cosmic Carbones will move onto the Cinelli. Allegedly, the Mavics are 10 & 11sp campag compatible!

Went for some Vittoria Corsa SC with tan walls and Conti Supersonic tubes to go with.
 
I've bought some 'goof off' to try and remove tubular glue.

It seems a bit more effective than acetone used with extra fine wire wool at removing old glue. Just a rag doesn't work at all with either.

Not sure what is worse, putting the glue on or removing it!
 
Best stuff for dissolving tub glue is petrol - one wipe and it's gone - stinks though.

I run Planet x 50/50 and 80/101 if you need to go fast they are the best tyre option. I wouldn't use them as a general training tyre but good for sportives and such where you can get some support if things go wrong.
 
Edinho said:
Best stuff for dissolving tub glue is petrol - one wipe and it's gone - stinks though.

I run Planet x 50/50 and 80/101 if you need to go fast they are the best tyre option. I wouldn't use them as a general training tyre but good for sportives and such where you can get some support if things go wrong.
Click to expand...

Something aggressive in petrol to remove it that quick.

I wouldn't be so keen to use it in case it softens or damages the rim. Maybe use it on alloy but not carbon rims.

Zipp only recommend acetone or goof off.
 
Someone gave me a tip today that I hadn't thought of.

If you don't have a truing stand you can use a bike stand instead. Just clamp the rear wheel by the hub. Put a QR on the front and clamp it using that (not super secure but ok for gluing).

Sanded my rims today with 240 grade and cleaned up with acetone. Away with work so didn't want to start gluing. Put the tyres back on the rims to stretch even more. Not expecting dramas as I've had them on rims since Xmas!

FCE584F7-320A-40C1-BAB8-A2B1A3C66F87_zps8jrrzxqo.jpg
 
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