Two weeks in Tokyo

[strumpusplunket]

Our family of four (kids mid- to late-teens) are going to Tokyo for two weeks in August. I know it's going to be humid, but hopefully not too bad (we were there at the end of August 16 years ago and it was okay).

We're all crazy excited, and drawing up our plans.

So far on our list (which is likely more than we can fit in), we have:

Asakusa	Nakamise Dori	Sensouji	Underground street market
Akihabara	Yodobashi Akiba	Namco Akihabara	GiGO
Kichijouji	Ghibli Musuem	Inokashira Park
Harajuku
Skytree/Tokyo Tower
Shinjuku & Shibuya	Godzilla Café	Imperial Palace (Chiyoda)	Shinjuku Gyoen
Fuji daytrip	combine with Lake Kawaguchi?
Hakone daytrip	Onsen	Odawara Castle
Shinbashi	Karaoke
Arakurayama
Kamakura	Beach (Yuigahama)
Lake Kawaguchi	Lake Yamanaka as alternative?
Kawagoe	"Edo street"
Ginza
Yokohama
Ito
Nikko

Any experienced Japan travellers got any suggestions for things we can combine/things on the list that are not worth the time/things we've missed?

I'm trying my best to brush the cobwebs off my Japanese skills, which used to be okay (reasonable-but-not-great conversational level), but now definitely not so good and I am just going to have to accept I will suck at the language and that I've forgotten way too many kanji to read at any reasonable speed anymore. This is a bit of a kicker given it's the first time I'll actually be in Japan since learning the language after coming back from our previous trip, but such is life. (I'm listening to podcasts, using a kanji app and trying to read some basic folkstories again, but it's slow, painful going.)

So, basically, if that is relevant to any options, I will be able to make myself understood in a basic way and converse a bit if people speak slowly, probably make my way through Japanese menus and the like slowly and with some help from looking up radicals on my phone apps. Dunno if that opens up or closes off potential activities.

 

[Raymond Lin]

I have been to almost all of those places, bar Ito and Kawagoe.

Lake Kawaguchi, Arakurayama and Mt Fuji are basically the same thing. Unless you meant climbing Mt Fuji which is a completely different thing and required 2 days, and booked a sleeping spot in the hut.

To get the view of Mt Fuji, I would leave booking your bus/train ticket to the last minute, check weather forecast, and there is even a live web cam in the area so you know in the morning whether it is clear or not.

Ginza is not a day thing, it would be more an afternoon, 2 hour thing, go to Ginza 6 (mall), walk down main street, Uniqlo HQ perhaps, job done. You can hit up Shimbashi after, which is the area next to it, full of salary men, great place to see the more local area.

Yokohama is a day trip, China Town....you can if you want, do it with Kamakura. Go to Kamakura in the day, leave Kamakura at around 6 and head to Yokohama China town for dinner. But if you want to see other things in Yokohama, like the Ramen/Pot Noodle Museum then you will need a day there.

Nikko is a day trip, it's a bit of a hiking day to be honest with you once you get off the train.

Hakone, if you are not staying at a Ryokan, then IMO the only reason to go is for that Pirate Ship, or up to cable car to get those black eggs. Not sure how you are going to the Onsen in Hakone as a day trip?

Harajuku is a 2 hour max thing, it's a novelty, not really what it all cracked up to be or what it was in the 90's. Go to Meiji Shrine behind it too when you are near.

To streamline it....I would divide Tokyo into halves, so you have Shinjuku/Harajuku/Shibuya on the left circle, and you have Asakusa/Akihabara/Ginza on the other half.

When you go to one-half, stay there that day, saves time and money crossing over.

You also missed out

Odiba - Gundam, Team Labs
Enoshima would be a nice day trip too, it's by Kamakura. You can see Mt Fuji from there.
In Shibuya, go up Shibuya Sky.
Nakameguru - there is a 2km walk by the river filled with Sakura trees, although it will be completely green in August.
The Emperor's Castle/garden - It's actually by Ginza
Fish Market (the new one, forgot the name)
Tokyo Station, downstairs, inside, has lots of cool shops. There are stores there that sells souvenirs from all over Japan. Things like snacks, so you will be able to experience those without leaving Tokyo.
Uneo Park
Ikebukuro - Sunshine City, there is another Pokemon center there, as well as the one in Shibuya PARCO.
Tokyo Tower
Mori Tower (best view on the helipad)
Metropolitan building - free view

 

[Reuben klang]

Couldn’t have summed it up better myself. Can’t wait for my next trip back.

 

[Raymond Lin]

Here are some things that most 1st time Tokyo visitors don't go to.

Gotokuji - cat temple

Get Totoro Puff Pastry - The owner is a relative of Miyazaki

Enoshima - view of Mt Fuji

It is actually possible, and I've done it twice...go to Osaka or Kyoto for a day trip, but I would not recommend it as a family unless you are made of money and LOVE trains. It's 3hrs each way and cost about £100 each way per person. So that is like £800 for a family of 4. It's also not worth it for a JR Pass now too as it is now 50,000 yen per person. You have to do like 2 of those trips in 7 days to make it worthwhile.

Same goes for Matusumoto (which nobody ever talks about but I think it's great) and Kanazawa, both can be reached and then back as a day trip. It's just expensive on the Shinkansen.

Note....in Akihabara, since you are with children, be ware of stores with basements, they are normally the 18+ zones....full of 18+ material if you know what I mean. Sometimes they can also be on the top floor, but now and again, amongst it all, but just behind a tiny curtain thing. The main thing is, don't go to basements lol

 

[strumpusplunket]

@Raymond Lin, those are really awesome, detailed and hugely helpful replies. Thanks so much for all that!

I have copied and pasted into my notes.

Our kids love cats too, so the cat temple has to go on the list as well

Not aiming to climb Fuji, just get a good view. I love the pictures I've seen from some of its surrounding lakes, and the towns there look lovely to visit too (not that you can really tell that from a photo, I guess).

So, you're a fan of Tokyo Tower over Skytree? We didn't do either last time, but went up Roppongi Tower, which was good but not the calibre of views I've seen in photos from other vantage points.

I can't remember why we chose Hakone for an onsen visit other than we that tried to go last time, but we were really late setting out (had a toddler with us at the time...) and the onsen we wanted to go to was closed when we finally got there. I think it had been recommended by our hotel, and that had stuck in my mind.

Shame about Harajuku. We went to the Meiji shrine last time, and this time were thinking about it because the kids love the kind of subculture/cosplay style we hoped to see there. Maybe it's just a hop off the train, wonder around for 30 minutes or so and then go somewhere else kind of deal?

 

[Raymond Lin]

@Raymond Lin, those are really awesome, detailed and hugely helpful replies. Thanks so much for all that!

I have copied and pasted into my notes.

Our kids love cats too, so the cat temple has to go on the list as well

Not aiming to climb Fuji, just get a good view. I love the pictures I've seen from some of its surrounding lakes, and the towns there look lovely to visit too (not that you can really tell that from a photo, I guess).

So, you're a fan of Tokyo Tower over Skytree? We didn't do either last time, but went up Roppongi Tower, which was good but not the calibre of views I've seen in photos from other vantage points.

I can't remember why we chose Hakone for an onsen visit other than we that tried to go last time, but we were really late setting out (had a toddler with us at the time...) and the onsen we wanted to go to was closed when we finally got there. I think it had been recommended by our hotel, and that had stuck in my mind.

Shame about Harajuku. We went to the Meiji shrine last time, and this time were thinking about it because the kids love the kind of subculture/cosplay style we hoped to see there. Maybe it's just a hop off the train, wonder around for 30 minutes or so and then go somewhere else kind of deal?

There is a resident/regular visitor cat at the Cat Temple too! The staff told me his name which escapes me at the moment!

If you want to see Mt Fuji, get there either by Bus or Train, then you can do a couple of things.

1 - You can go up to the Pagoda to get that famous view.

If you are unlucky then you will see nothing, like this time I went.

Whereas this is what it should look like.

2 - You can rent a bike and cycle round the lake, which is a nice way to spend the day.

The pagoda is only about 20mins walk from the Bus/Train station back to Shinjuku.

As for Harajuku, there is 1 Main Street call Takeshita street, there are some people who are into fashion about, sometimes, but nowhere near what it was and the whole place is a tourist trap to be honest. Crepes stores, Candy floss shops, stickers and keychain shops. Although B-Sides Stickers are cool, but cost rack up fast at like £2 each. But yeah, tourist trap, and if you have to go, I guess it's not far from Shinjuku so can check it out, no harm.

The best view in Tokyo IMO is between Mori Tower (if the Helipad is open, if its too windy, they close it) and Shibuya Sky.

I will rank them for you.

Tokyo Tower

It's not very high, no outdoor view. Windows dirty and it is lit up...meaning lots of reflection if trying to take photos from inside to outside at night. Almost impossible in fact. Also, because you are standing in the iconic thing.....photos out of it is a city that is hard to recognise if you know what I mean.

My lease favourite of the views.

Skytree

Very high. Practically on a plane high, everything so far away when looking down, other skyscrapers looks like a shed. It is actually on the outskirts of the city so hard to see other landmarks. But great view to the distance. It is also one of the more expensive ones.

You can just make out Tokyo Tower

Mori Tower

You are able to see both Mt Fuji and Tokyo Tower. So that is great. But because it is a helipad first, and a viewing deck 2nd, the way it is designed isn't that great for viewing. You can't look down to the street, there is a huge ledge that stop you. The plus is that there is always an exhibition in the gallery downstairs, some kind of fun exhibit. It cost extra to get to the roof, I think 500 yen, like £2.50 so dead cheap.

Downstairs

Shibuya Sky

I think this has the best view for 2 reasons, Mt Fuji, you can see down Shubiya Crossing, and there are dedicated spot for photos, it's very cool up there, with spaces to sit and relax. It is designed as a viewing deck first. But for this one, you might have to book slot in advance and come back later in the day. I would advice for any of these, go up there 30mins before sunset and stay there 1 hour so you get to see it in all its glory, light and dark. Tokyo sunset at 6:30pm in August. So book your ticket for 6.

Metropolitan Builing

Best thing about it is that its free, but that's about it. Sure it is high but the view is restricted to like 180 degrees I recall, not 360. As there is the other twin building blocking to the side. But it is free!

There is also the New York Bar of Lost in Translation fame, but it's a business so I only went there for a drink as opposed to just walk in for photos, not sure they would like that.

 

[strumpusplunket]

@Raymond Lin Thanks again!

A lot of that simplifies things and combines together some activities I'd had separated.

I guess Ueno Park is good to combine with a visit to Asakusa and Akihabara? We are staying not far from there, so that should be quick for transport.

I've dropped Tokyo Tower and Skytree in favour of Shibuya Sky, which is good since we have some time planned in Shibuya anyway.

And the cat temple looks great, but a bit out of the city. Is that good to combine with any of the other trips?

 

[Raymond Lin]

@Raymond Lin Thanks again!

A lot of that simplifies things and combines together some activities I'd had separated.

I guess Ueno Park is good to combine with a visit to Asakusa and Akihabara? We are staying not far from there, so that should be quick for transport.

I've dropped Tokyo Tower and Skytree in favour of Shibuya Sky, which is good since we have some time planned in Shibuya anyway.

And the cat temple looks great, but a bit out of the city. Is that good to combine with any of the other trips?

I could spend an entire day in Akihabara but in theory you can do Akihabara, Uneo and Asakusa in a day. Although I would think here are enough things to do 2 days there. Perhaps if you arrive in the afternoon to check into the hotel then the evening in either Akihabara or Asakusa. Sensoji temple is nicer after 6pm when the stores shut and less people tbh.

Uneo Park is big but also check out a traditional shopping street call Ameyoko, this store before is famous in a funny way of selling candy. Look it up lol

Shimura Shoten · 6 Chome-11-3 Ueno, Taito City, Tokyo 110-0005, Japan

★★★☆☆ · Chocolate shop

maps.app.goo.gl

If you are near Tokyo station, I recommend this place for ramen, go for the dipping one, with Gyozas as sides (they are huge). One of the best ramen in Japan (officially too, on the Ramen database)

Matsudo Tomita Memban · Japan, 〒100-0005 Tokyo, Chiyoda City, Marunouchi, 2 Chome−7−2 KITTE丸の内 KITTE GRANCHE

★★★★☆ · Ramen restaurant

maps.app.goo.gl

Cat temple unfortunately isn't near by of anything in its immediate area, the good thing there isn't an opening time, it is open 24/7. On my first day I was jetlagged and I got there at like 7am. The office there that can sell you those little white cat or charms doesn't open until 8am. It's not a too busy place and makes a nice change from all the tourist filled place around Tokyo.

On that side of town, a few stops away there is The Cream Puff place with Totoro call Shiro-Hige’s Cream Puff Factory I literally went there straight after, they open at 10:30am but there is ALWAYS a queue, always. It will usually be sold out by midday too so just go there straight after if you like the novelty of trying it. The cream puff itself is fine, I give it a 7/10 but its more the novelty of it.

Shiro-Hige’s Cream Puff Factory · 5 Chome-3-1 Daita, Setagaya City, Tokyo 155-0033, Japan

★★★★☆ · Pastry shop

maps.app.goo.gl

The area it next to is a nice district call Shimokitazawa, a vintage/used clothing shopping district with nice coffee shops. It's quite popular and a nice area to wonder.

After that, you are not far from Shibuya...which should be around lunch time by this point, if you went to Cat temple before 9am and then Cream Puff Factory after.

 

[strumpusplunket]

I could spend an entire day in Akihabara but in theory you can do Akihabara, Uneo and Asakusa in a day. Although I would think here are enough things to do 2 days there. Perhaps if you arrive in the afternoon to check into the hotel then the evening in either Akihabara or Asakusa. Sensoji temple is nicer after 6pm when the stores shut and less people tbh.

Uneo Park is but but also check out a traditional shopping street call Ameyoko, this store before is famous in a funny way of selling candy. Look it up lol

Shimura Shoten · 6 Chome-11-3 Ueno, Taito City, Tokyo 110-0005, Japan

★★★☆☆ · Chocolate shop

maps.app.goo.gl

If you are near Tokyo station, I recommend this place for ramen, go for the dipping one, with Gyozas as sides (they are huge). One of the best ramen in Japan (officially too, on the Ramen database)

That looks absolutely amazing! Definitely have to try that ramen!

So, given our hotel is near Akihabara, I think maybe one day in Ueno and Asakusa and one in Akihabara would be good, and one of those days could leave the evening free for something else.

Trying to do the cat temple before Shibuya sounds good too.

Awesome. Cheers!

Excitement level builds!

 

[Raymond Lin]

That looks absolutely amazing! Definitely have to try that ramen!

So, given our hotel is near Akihabara, I think maybe one day in Ueno and Asakusa and one in Akihabara would be good, and one of those days could leave the evening free for something else.

Trying to do the cat temple before Shibuya sounds good too.

Awesome. Cheers!

Excitement level builds!

Keep in mind that most retailers do not open until 11am, meaning the mornings are usually limited to temples or parks. Keep that in mind when planning. So there is little to no point going to Akihabara before 11am.

IMO it works out well because most places are at their quietest first thing in the morning too, so my typical day is usually temples/shrines 1st thing and then anything that needs a ticket after that.

btw, in Japan, anything over a rating of 3.5 stars on Google Maps review is good. If it is 4 stars then it is like 9/10 in the west. The way the reviews are pulled from the database, Apple Maps actually reflect local ratings better.

 

[HungryHippos]

The staff told me his name which escapes me at the moment!

Bakeneko!

 

[strumpusplunket]

Keep in mind that most retailers do not open until 11am, meaning the mornings are usually limited to temples or parks. Keep that in mind when planning. So there is little to no point going to Akihabara before 11am.

IMO it works out well because most places are at their quietest first thing in the morning too, so my typical day is usually temples/shrines 1st thing and then anything that needs a ticket after that.

btw, in Japan, anything over a rating of 3.5 stars on Google Maps review is good. If it is 4 stars then it is like 9/10 in the west. The way the reviews are pulled from the database, Apple Maps actually reflect local ratings better.

Great. I didn't know that. Last time we were there our eldest was just over one and we never managed to get moving early in the morning anyway, so never noticed!

Incidentally, I notice you've been to Japan a lot - how is your Japanese? Last time we went, we found English not very widely spoken (or at least not very willingly spoken), and I was doing lots of pointing and using a very limited phrasebook. It did make some things a bit difficult, but we managed thanks to its being a very accommodating country and easy to get around anyway. Can't help feeling we missed out a bit by not being able to speak to many people, though. I'm wondering if some of these more out of the way places might benefit from more language proficiency. I maybe need some impetus to up my revision anyway...

 

[Raymond Lin]

Great. I didn't know that. Last time we were there our eldest was just over one and we never managed to get moving early in the morning anyway, so never noticed!

Incidentally, I notice you've been to Japan a lot - how is your Japanese? Last time we went, we found English not very widely spoken (or at least not very willingly spoken), and I was doing lots of pointing and using a very limited phrasebook. It did make some things a bit difficult, but we managed thanks to its being a very accommodating country and easy to get around anyway. Can't help feeling we missed out a bit by not being able to speak to many people, though. I'm wondering if some of these more out of the way places might benefit from more language proficiency. I maybe need some impetus to up my revision anyway...

My Japanese speaking is bad but slowly getting there, been doing Duolingo for about 9 months. But since I speaks Cantonese and learned Chinese as a kld, I have a level of Kanji that far exceed most people trying to learn Japanese.

Think of Kanji as ancient Emojis, when I see it, I might not be able to read it these days, but in the back of my mind, I know what it means. So I see the word meat and know that is a meat dish, might not know whether it is Lamb or Bear meat, but I know the word Cow lol. When I see the word Pretty I can put 2 and 2 together and guess it is a beauty salon etc. It also means the exit signs I can read, toilet, male/female, and things like that.

You will be fine in Tokyo though, even the trains announcements are in English. But the best food usually are all in Japanese. I avoid going to places with massive English signs outside. Worst case, use google translate, the camera function works fine. If it's ordering via tablet, there is usually an English option.

English isn't widely spoken but that is more to do of them reluctant to sound bad in front of a native speaker. It's more a shyness thing than total lack of English. Everyone under the age of 40 would have learn English in school, and although the 1st attempt should always be in Japanese, if you had to speak English. Do it in short, concise sentences.

"Where is Toilet" is fine. You can drop the THE in the sentence even. Don't say "Where can I find the bathroom". I find a lot of Japanese words came from English, like Bus is Bus-Su. Passport is Pass-Por-To. Toilet is pronounced Toi-le.

Speak slowly, not louder, and say each syllable clearly, almost sounds like you are being racist....I certainly do when I go "Where is the Toi-let?" They will understand the noun and know what you mean by that. It feels so wrong.

The Japanese word for Where is Do Ko. The sentence should be "Toire wa doko desu ka?"

Swap the first word for whatever you are looking for. So...ATM wa doko desu ka? is Where is the ATM?

Hoteru wa doko desu ka? Where is the hotel? ...Hoteru is Hotel.

etc

(The do in doko is like the do in dodo.)

 

[strumpusplunket]

My Japanese speaking is bad but slowly getting there, been doing Duolingo for about 9 months. But since I speaks Cantonese and learned Chinese as a kld, I have a level of Kanji that far exceed most people trying to learn Japanese.

Think of Kanji as ancient Emojis, when I see it, I might not be able to read it these days, but in the back of my mind, I know what it means. So I see the word meat and know that is a meat dish, might not know whether it is Lamb or Bear meat, but I know the word Cow lol. When I see the word Pretty I can put 2 and 2 together and guess it is a beauty salon etc. It also means the exit signs I can read, toilet, male/female, and things like that.

You will be fine in Tokyo though, even the trains announcements are in English. But the best food usually are all in Japanese. I avoid going to places with massive English signs outside. Worst case, use google translate, the camera function works fine. If it's ordering via tablet, there is usually an English option.

Cool.

I used to know about 1800 kanji, but no idea how many I'm down to now with memory attrition. About five months left to see how well I can refamiliarise myself. But I seem to be finding that for every one I re-learn or manage to recognise again, I find another four or five I realise I can't remember. Maybe need to focus on menus for pratice, since that's most likely what we'll be needing to make sense of the most.

 

[Raymond Lin]

Cool.

I used to know about 1800 kanji, but no idea how many I'm down to now with memory attrition. About five months left to see how well I can refamiliarise myself. But I seem to be finding that for every one I re-learn or manage to recognise again, I find another four or five I realise I can't remember. Maybe need to focus on menus for pratice, since that's most likely what we'll be needing to make sense of the most.

Sounds like you will be fine then.

Sumemaisen (excuse me) is the most important word.
Gochisousama desu - say that after a meal.

Since the pandemic, a lot of things have been changed to more hands off, like the conveyor belt sushi like Sushiro, Kura Sushi are all tablet ordering now. YakiNiku Like! is also tablet ordering. Ramen are mostly done by machines at the door. Always select Top Row if in doubt. Top left is usually their signature dish.

 

[tlrBeta]

If you do fancy staying in near Fuji, I can highly recommend Lake Villa Kawaguchiko - https://www.booking.com/hotel/jp/lake-villa-kawaguchiko.en-gb.html . Short walk down to the lake for sunrise, our room had a private onsen big enough for 2. Pretty basic accommodation, but a few places around you can go and eat.

Fuji sunrise photo:

Spoiler

 

[Raymond Lin]

Fiji is 7000miles away

 

[tlrBeta]

Fiji is 7000miles away

My bad...I did it twice as well!

Edited evidence is gone

 

[.Griff.]

Following with interest. It's on my bucket list.

 

[strumpusplunket]

Yeah, think the day trip to Fiji is a bit out of reach

But seriously, I love the look of those lakes around Fuji. Kawaguchi is probably the one we'll try to get to, but that will depend on how easy it is to get to from Tokyo. Haven't checked the transport links yet. Pretty sure we'll try to go to one of them, though.