Underfloor Heating, Floating Floor?

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Deleted User 298457

Deleted User 298457

Hi folks, me again... Given all of my floors are pretty much up, and I need a new sub-floor surface anyway, I have kinda glanced by the prospect of underfloor heating.

Is there a preferred system for a floating floor underfloor heating system?
 
You have two options:
- An overlay system - like the link above, where you put everything on top of the floorboards, raising the height of the floor (which may lead to doors needing to be shaved at the bottom etc.)
- A reflector plate system - this rests on the joists and sits betwen them. Your floor then remains at the same height. These just need 2cm of space beneath the top of the joists. Example reflector plate

My understanding is that reflector plates work out cheaper but are more of a pain in terms of lifting all the floorboards. In either case, you’ll want your ground floors well insulated.

If you send your floor plan and details of what you’re after to The Underfloor Heating Store (link above for reflector plates), they will spec your system out and provide a quote for all materials. If nothing else, it gives you a full list of everything you’ll need.
 
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Top man thank you. I have the PIR ready to go under I would just need to recess it by 25mm to allow the reflector plates to go in.

Can it live on the existing 22mm radiator circuit?
 
I've had two quotes for UFH for suspended floors for my 1st and 2nd floor, would you like to see the quotes? It's got all the equipment I'd need if I went ahead and did it.
I heard those reflector plates weren't as good as above floor options
Message in trust and I'll send it over
 
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Why do you hate it?

Pros -
A lovely even heat
Warm floor

Cons -
Takes hours and hours to warm up a room vs wall radiators
Uses a stack load more gas than radiators
No good in this energy saving climate to warm up rooms when you’re out most of the time
No one will cover it with insurance vs the rest of our system
 
Pros -
A lovely even heat
Warm floor

Cons -
Takes hours and hours to warm up a room vs wall radiators
Uses a stack load more gas than radiators
No good in this energy saving climate to warm up rooms when you’re out most of the time
No one will cover it with insurance vs the rest of our system
I read they use less gas than radiators?
 
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My experience of our underfloor is completely in contrast to everything I heard/read about them. I read that they take hours to come up to temp, to the point where you have to ideally leave them on "all the time" or basically a lot. We moved into a house where the kitchen diner has it throughout and we just gambled that it worked basically. We did not know what to expect.

Ours is a wet system which I know little about other than it is plumbed into our main heating system but controllable separately (ish). It has it's own thermostat/programmer, but it's rubbish because it seems to only have on or off, rather than one where you can set a temp and then it turns off when reached. I think it's just a basic "come on between X and Y on these days" type thing. I should replace it. We use it by manually just turning it on, and then turn it off when we are satisfied with the room temp later on. In one of the kitchen cupboards there is a manifold where it all feeds/terminates.

It just works. Really, really well. From switching on from very cold first thing on a winter morning (typically the room might be about 15c at this point) , you can feel a noticeable temp difference after 15-20 minutes. I haven't done any official measurements of time to warm up, but it is no different than a room with radiators. Probably better in fact. Within an hour the room will have gone up 2 or 3 degrees and within 1.5 to 2 hours it will reach 21c. The tiles are obviously nice and warm on your feet, but you will get cold spots based on where the wet loop does and doesn't cover. This is fine though. The floor being warm under feet is just an additional nice to have. The room gets evenly warm and I love not having radiators taking up space.
We find it plenty responsive and have never had an issue with it.

In contrast....we have an electric system in our downstairs toilet. I again don't know anything of the spec, but it's probably a very small loop/pad under the floor tiles. This literally does take hours to get up to temp and make a difference. It definitely works, it's just more designed with its controller to have these "comfort" and "economy" periods. So you set it for example that between 7-9am you want it in comfort mode, then to go to economy whilst everyone is out. Then you set it to come back into comfort mode for say 3pm until 9pm. In economy mode it sort of ticks over around 22c floor temp. During comfort I have it set to about 30c floor temp. it never really reaches that though as it's a very cold room. Definitely takes the edge of though and works, but I dread to think the elec cost of it. I have no easy way to measure the usage of it until I get an in home thing for my smart meter to see how much it uses. We generally tend to only have it on during very cold spells and just do without it otherwise. I mean how comfortable do you need your number 2 to be? :)

I don't know how good elec ones have got now, but I would favour a wet system from my experience.
 
My experience of our underfloor is completely in contrast to everything I heard/read about them. I read that they take hours to come up to temp, to the point where you have to ideally leave them on "all the time" or basically a lot. We moved into a house where the kitchen diner has it throughout and we just gambled that it worked basically. We did not know what to expect.

Ours is a wet system which I know little about other than it is plumbed into our main heating system but controllable separately (ish). It has it's own thermostat/programmer, but it's rubbish because it seems to only have on or off, rather than one where you can set a temp and then it turns off when reached. I think it's just a basic "come on between X and Y on these days" type thing. I should replace it. We use it by manually just turning it on, and then turn it off when we are satisfied with the room temp later on. In one of the kitchen cupboards there is a manifold where it all feeds/terminates.

It just works. Really, really well. From switching on from very cold first thing on a winter morning (typically the room might be about 15c at this point) , you can feel a noticeable temp difference after 15-20 minutes. I haven't done any official measurements of time to warm up, but it is no different than a room with radiators. Probably better in fact. Within an hour the room will have gone up 2 or 3 degrees and within 1.5 to 2 hours it will reach 21c. The tiles are obviously nice and warm on your feet, but you will get cold spots based on where the wet loop does and doesn't cover. This is fine though. The floor being warm under feet is just an additional nice to have. The room gets evenly warm and I love not having radiators taking up space.
We find it plenty responsive and have never had an issue with it.

In contrast....we have an electric system in our downstairs toilet. I again don't know anything of the spec, but it's probably a very small loop/pad under the floor tiles. This literally does take hours to get up to temp and make a difference. It definitely works, it's just more designed with its controller to have these "comfort" and "economy" periods. So you set it for example that between 7-9am you want it in comfort mode, then to go to economy whilst everyone is out. Then you set it to come back into comfort mode for say 3pm until 9pm. In economy mode it sort of ticks over around 22c floor temp. During comfort I have it set to about 30c floor temp. it never really reaches that though as it's a very cold room. Definitely takes the edge of though and works, but I dread to think the elec cost of it. I have no easy way to measure the usage of it until I get an in home thing for my smart meter to see how much it uses. We generally tend to only have it on during very cold spells and just do without it otherwise. I mean how comfortable do you need your number 2 to be? :)

I don't know how good elec ones have got now, but I would favour a wet system from my experience.
Do you know how good your insulation and what your wall construction is?
 
I read they use less gas than radiators?

Probably for most peoples usage, but not ours. There’s no point in it being on all the time when we’re in work, but equally it’s not worth having it on for the length of time that would take to heat up the rooms and then the time we’d spend in them.

For reference ours covers all of downstairs, two independent thermostats (that it always overshoots by miles) and is a wet system connected to the boiler. Warms up about 1-1.5C every hour from what I can tell.

We’re in a pretty well insulated newish build too.
 
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Do you know how good your insulation and what your wall construction is?

We are an end terrace with a bit of a mixture. Some is double brick with cavity and insulation inside (according to the cert we got when we moved). But some of it is different because it's an extension where a part of it comes out the original house with I believe single skin brick and the other side has a garage coming off of it. On one side is the partition wall as well and it has an area down one end with a extended roof pitch with skylight windows. Garden end has full width bifold doors.
We have floating floors throughout the house but the kitchen I think might be solid concrete when it was extended.
 
Can it live on the existing 22mm radiator circuit?
I’m not a plumber/heat engineer etc. so I can’t say for certain. My installer told me this would be fine so long as it was copper pipes all the way, but not if there’s plastic piping. You’ll need to decide where you can place the manifold before deciding. For me, it made sense to run new copper pipes to under the stairs. You can’t just run each room’s UFH from the room’s radiator pipes as you need to control the temperature going into the UFH and pump it round.

Re. other comments on speed to heat up, I think this depends on whether the underfloor heating pipes are set in screed which takes a long time to heat up/cool down or laid on top with insulation boards (which can be done for solid floors as well as suspended). I believe this is a high/low thermal mass floor difference. I’m not sure what the benefits of the screed floor are though.
 
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