Using 8mm ID. Which Laing pump?

JonJ678

JonJ678

JonJ678

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Simple as the above. The loop will only have a radiator and a gfx card in it to start with, but assuming things go well it's going to end up with everything I can find which gives out heat attached. No reservoir, will be using 10/8mm compression connections with 11/8mm tube.

I'm looking at the D5 and the DDC with one of the aftermarket tops. The price difference is fairly minor, the difference in pressure head is 3.7 on the D5, 4.7 on the DDC 18W.

The smaller is a DC motor, the D5 an AC one which changes input voltage appropriately. So either can be run from the internal power supply. Basically I'm a bit thrown by this, the bigger one appears to cost more and offer a lower pressure head than the smaller. Which do I want to go for or does it simply not matter?


Second, can I change the speed of these using a fan header? I think Asus told me they were rated for 24W, but I'm not sure I trust the email I got from them much. Especially as I can't find it, and my memory isn't perfect.

Cheers :)

edit: It appears that the far more sensible option is running them directly from molex. I'll wire a pot into the 12V line if I need to and control it manually.
Probably going to settle on the ddc with some form of aftermarket top, but still can't find a significant difference between them
 
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I am using the Laing DDC 1+ Ultra 18W 12V DC Pump with a Alphacool acrylic top, 10/8mm compression connections & tubing. The DDC 18W is a very good pump.

To cool a CPU/NB/GPU in a single loop with a reservoir and a triple 120mm Radiator

If this is your first time water cooling I would go with a reservoir, much easier to use than a "T" system.
 
That's good to know. No need for the thicker tubing in your opinion? It's quite a lot of heat you're emptying into the loop, probably more than I'll ever manage. I'm going to start on a single 120 and cooled gfx, and add a dual later when I get the rest of the blocks sorted so should all be good on that front.

This is indeed my first time cooling anything with water. This is why I'm only putting one chip under to begin with. Pretty convinced by no reservoir or t line so far, but I'll see how it goes :)
 
Hi JonJ678,

I happy running with the 10/8mm tubing, I would say no to thicker tubing.

You will need a reservoir or "t" line to bleed help you to fill and bleed the air out of the system, with out one it would be very hard to use and you must not let your pump run dry.

I would go with the dual Rad if possible first, forget the single from a cost point of view.

So you will start with you CPU or GPU and which blocks are you look at?
 
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Hey. I'm pleased that the thinner tubing is working well for you, good news.

First try doesn't necessarily mean I've done no research into this :) Not using a res or t line in favour of a closed loop system, Ill submerge part of it in a small bucket while I let the pump get the last of the air out. Doesn't seem a popular choice anywhere but at least it's been done before.

Dual better than single for cost, especially if a dual ends up being enough for everything by itself. I'm hoping to find an appropriate dual radiator second hand over the coming months while I try to sort out chipset cooling, meanwhile a single is enough for an 8800gt and fits on my motherboard tray.
It seems a better idea to start small with a single block. Worst that'll happen is I'll kill the gfx card as I'm starting with an 8800gt with a full cover block. Cpu is mainly voltage limited as far as I can tell at the moment, so there's no rush on that one.

Extremesystems via google cache shows various arguments about the laing pumps that pretty much confirm that there isn't much to call between them. Think I'll go for the smaller one.

Cheers
 
Good luck with the submerge part of filling your loop.

Do not forget to check for leaks in your loop for 24 hours by running the pump, before power on the rest of your computer just in case.

Try not to use tap water, DIW is better with additives or best still use a specialised coolant and I found it better to order more tubing than you think you need.
 
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The submerged filling idea would seem to be feasible to get rid of the major air bubbles trapped in the rad etc, infact I sort of used this method myself, but not for bleeding purposes, it was more to do with a method of trapping any remaining suspended particles in the rads etc before a final fill without the "bucket". However, from experience you always end up with tiny air bubbles sticking to various surfaces in the loop which in a normal res or t line setup would eventually become trapped. When I filled my system it took a couple of days for these tiny bubles to eventualy shift. Also, it is not uncommon for the water level in a loop to drop slightly after it has been running for a few weeks. I put this down to water being absorbed into whatever parts of the system are capable of absorbing water. The effects this might have on a closed system might be to reduce the absolute pressure in the loop below atmospheric so when the system is off your tubes may try to collapse dependant on how much is absrobed. Also, I've heard elsewhere that pvc tubing is not actually 100% non-porous, such that there is a very very slow rate of evapouration through the tubing. This is a fairly remote possibility in reality probably, but basically what I am saying is that I can see no benefits whatsoever for setting up a water cooling loop without a t line as a bare minimum.
 
Ah. Thanks for the post, even though it's not exactly brilliant news. I'm willing to disregard evaporation through tubes for the time being as I expect the loop to be taken apart frequently in the coming weeks. Tubing taking up water sounds very likely unfortunately, I can well believe the water level drops near the start. Its possible my solution will end up being running the loop through a sealed container acting as a reservoir for the first week or so before finally closing the loop, but a t line is starting to look somewhat inevitable.

I expect hardware to show up over the next few days, so we'll see how it goes. Cheers
 
Pretty much aesthetics yeah, though I have a pretty strange idea of what looks tidy and what doesn't. An inline res would be fine, but they are large and (only from what I've read) the most likely place for a loop to fail.
A t line is a tube that goes off into space and terminates nowhere, aesthetically very distressing unless it ends in a fillport. I don't want to take a drill to my case; I started modding its predecessor and that is now a small pile of metal plate which barely resembles a usable case :)
 
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