Using a Webasto/Eberspracher/Chinese Diesel Heater to heat spaces cheaply...

DRZ

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Thought this might be of interest, so posting it up. I'd be interested to see if anyone else here is doing the same! :)

Background:

I've been on a mission to keep my (detached) garage dehumidified and heated during the winter months. Partially to protect the things I keep in there from getting ruined, partially as I use it as a workshop and things like that from time to time. My initial plan was to install a cheap-ish dessicant dehumidifier, which ended up being a Meaco DD8L. These are good, but the build quality is very suspect and I've repaired a few faults with mine leading me to splash out on a Ecor Pro DH800, which honestly has proved to be crap. The damage humidity does and the efficiency of dehumidifiers is linked to temperature, so I figured if I keep the garage at least slightly warmer than outside (and in any case, definitely above freezing!) and at a reasonably consistent temperature I would overall have a better time of things.

I rigged up 2x 2kW electric heaters to a pair of smart plugs and using HomeAssistant and a smart thermometer I crudely automated a heating solution - on if the temps drop below 5c, off when the temp is above 10c. This worked well but when the ambient temperatures dropped well below the 5c lower target the duty cycle of the heaters was getting to 50% or more, meaning the garage heating was costing somewhere between 60p and £1.20/hr. In October, this cost me about £25. In November, £80 and in December I spent well over £100 in electricity just to heat the garage! I needed a better solution.

The solution!

I joined in with the internet hysteria and picked myself up a Chinese clone of the time-honoured Webasto diesel heater, most commonly used to heat camper vans at night. The patent has expired so there's a million clones of these popping up all over for sale, but I believe the innards are made by just one or two factories and everyone else is just rebadging or repackaging them. I opted for the "Maxpeedingrods" 5kW portable unit. Some claim to be 8kw, that isn't actually possible and as far as I can tell the 5kW and 8kW options are actually identical and by default can only put out around 4.5kW anyway. I bought a portable all-in-one unit rather than an installation type kit purely because it was cheaper! It really pays to shop around with these things as there's a zillion competing brands. I had no intention of keeping it intact as the portable unit so it didn't matter how it came packaged. It might matter to you if you want to go down this path so I recommend doing some research here. My unit cost £89, plus I spent about £20 on some other sundry items.

The way these work is really simple - there's a chamber with a glow plug in it and fuel is sprayed in, where it burns. A fan draws air in through the intake port, draws the burning air/fuel mix through a chamber where it fully burns and then exits through the exhaust port. An external fan (on the same shaft as the internal fan) draws air over the outside of the casing, getting extremely hot in the process. It is this air which heats the space. The exhaust air MUST be ducted EXTERNALLY or you will die of Carbon Monoxide poisoning. As long as that is going outside, the hot air is just the heated air from inside your space and is as safe as that air is already, just hotter.

Where I'd mounted the DH800, I already had a hole drilled in the garage wall so although far from the ideal placement for all sorts of reasons, it meant I didn't have to break the SDS out and put yet another hole in the wall. The layout and siting of the garage in relation to the neighbours plus some other factors ruled out any other wall than the one it has ended up on, so it isn't too bad a compromise. The exhaust fits through the existing hole a little too well, so I have packed some fireproof insulation around it to seal it up.

These units typically come with a 5L fuel tank (although some of the install kits come with a 10L tank) but at ~140ml/hr fuel consumption at the lowest (more on that later), 5L isn't going to last long enough, especially for a mostly unattended setup like mine. Assuming an absolute worst-case situation of it needing to run 24/7, having to refill the tank every single day is just ridiculous. I have taken a standard 25L fuel can, drilled a hole in the lid to take a fuel stand pipe and another to ventilate the tank. Originally this was just a 0.5mm hole but I quickly realised the fuel smell was unbearable even with such a tiny opening. Installing a one-way valve quickly sorted that problem! By doing it this way, I can easily swap out the 25L containers for refilling purposes.


80-85 hours of running in a consistently cold month seems to be a fair estimation of the real-world worst case for MY garage based on the electricity usage I've seen for 4kW of electrical heating. 85 hours at a consumption of 0.2L/hr gives 17L of fuel in a month. If you run it on pump diesel at today's price of 145p/L that's ~£25/month. In actual fact, I am running mine on Kerosene which is £1/l in small quantities from my local supplier, so even cheaper. If you already have Kerosene/fuel oil/Jet A1 delivered in bulk you're probably paying significantly less than that...

There is a slightly unfair comparison here. 0.2L of Kerosene only contains about 2kW of energy so to put it in fair terms, Kerosene is roughly 10p/kWh vs 30p/kWh for electricity. Still an enormous saving, a projected ROI of about 10 wintry weeks.

Next up: Automation. These units are designed to be run from a control panel and there's nothing much in the way of smartness around these units. I've seen some now come with bluetooth and an app but I didn't think these would serve my purposes and in any case they cost a lot more, a route I didn't think was in keeping with the spirit of what I'm trying to do. Instead, I am using an ESP32 board with an STX882 transmitter to emulate the crappy RF remote control that these things come with. This works really well! Initially I was using Tasmota and sending the RF commands via MQTT but I have just switched to ESPhome for a bit of a QoL improvement in HomeAssistant. With that successfully working to turn the heater on/off, I just switched the automation routines away from turning the smart plugs on and off to sending the on or off RF commands. Simples!


I'll take some pictures later on and add them to this post so you can visualise the setup. It isn't pretty at the moment, something I'll work on as time allows but it is at least functional for now :)
 

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As promised, some images...

The heater unit sits in the bottom of this frame, the tank would sit directly above it. I plan to make a new enclosure for this, as well as weld up some better brackets. Not for strength, just for looks really. I have the metal to do this but not a welder at the moment so it'll have to wait a short while.

qlx9mBk.jpeg


I've relocated the control panel so it is more accessible and not attached to something that is going away...

TQnZCXa.jpeg


Exhaust pipe goes out the wall like this. Not perfect but plenty good enough. There is a silencer/muffler mounted outside at the lowest point, and then from there a vertical pipe takes it up to roof level so the exhaust gasses don't sit around in the passageway between the garage and the house. Condensation is taken care of by a drain hole in the bottom of the silencer.

There are people out there running the exhaust through iron radiators to recover even more energy. I've not gone down that exact route because it is extremely dangerous to have a radiator at ~200c inside. It would be far too easy to touch it or for something to accidentally come into contact with it and potentially start a fire. A far safer idea is using sand as a thermal battery or potentially creating a water loop similar to traditional central heating. I might go down these routes in future just to drive up the efficiency a bit but I think Kerosene would have to double in price before I'd go down that route.

5v6Z2v7.jpeg


ESP32 and modules. I'm printing an enclosure for this at the moment, then it'll be wall mounted somewhere nearby.

X2xheCS.jpeg


Finally, the original cover just draped back over it all so it doesn't look quite so shonky while I figure out exactly how I'll finish it.

XxGVX24.jpeg




There's plenty to critique here, it is by no means perfect but as a proof-of-concept it is great and the finished article will hopefully be even better. In the mean time, cheap heating :)

This sort of setup would be easily achievable for anyone looking to heat anything like a shed, greenhouse, garage, outbuilding etc.
 
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Awesome stuff.

I've watched a few youtube videos where they did something similar, like putting in a sand bank to store the heat from the exhaust and other things.

I believe the government has banned (or at least tried to) some of these cheap heaters as some folk died when they didn't think to run the exhaust to the outside and suffocated from the fumes.
 

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Awesome stuff.

I've watched a few youtube videos where they did something similar, like putting in a sand bank to store the heat from the exhaust and other things.

I believe the government has banned (or at least tried to) some of these cheap heaters as some folk died when they didn't think to run the exhaust to the outside and suffocated from the fumes.

Yes, some specific models have been 'banned' (eg the Vevor-branded models) because people are stupid. In my opinion, this is like running a portable suitcase generator. Nobody is banning those because people are killing themselves running them inside buildings...

Editing to add that I have a Carbon Monoxide alarm sited nearby and it reads 0ppm when the heater has been running for several hours.
 
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seriously thinking about this idea.
couple of questions if i may,
have you any pictures of the exhaust side outside especially the silencer fitment, and do you have any worries about the fuel side (fire wise?)
reason i ask is years ago we had a workshop waste oil burner (proper industrial type) and yes the garage burnt down fire brigade put it down to arson, break in tools maybe missing etc, but at the back of my mind i always had a nagging doubt, even though the oil storage tank was outside of the garage and untouched.
was a pita to clean up :).
 

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seriously thinking about this idea.
couple of questions if i may,
have you any pictures of the exhaust side outside especially the silencer fitment, and do you have any worries about the fuel side (fire wise?)
reason i ask is years ago we had a workshop waste oil burner (proper industrial type) and yes the garage burnt down fire brigade put it down to arson, break in tools maybe missing etc, but at the back of my mind i always had a nagging doubt, even though the oil storage tank was outside of the garage and untouched.
was a pita to clean up :).

I'll grab some pictures of the outside bit tomorrow in daylight - honestly though it really isn't very good at the moment. The silencer is not big at all, same rough volume as a regular bag of crisps ish. I plan to tidy it up significantly - for a start it is unacceptably dangerous to have a completely bare metal pipe at ~200c where anyone could touch it unwittingly and get serious burns. I could just cover it with mesh but the more I think about it the more it makes sense to just recover the waste energy to make the bits outside much cooler. My vague plan is to pick up EGR cooler from a scrap yard and pass the exhaust gas through that with the heat getting dumped into a water loop with a radiator. This should recover ~800w of waste heat but more importantly (to me) it'll reduce the temperature of the exhaust gas down to about 50c, meaning I can get away with just running a stainless pipe up the wall outside without any sort of cover/protection.

Risk wise, I think in general Kerosene is largely safe, or at least safer than the 10L of petrol I keep for my lawnmower in another brick outbuilding. A bigger safety issue than fire is potentially Hydrogen Sulfide gas, which Kerosene just loves to give off. Diesel is quite a lot nicer than that respect! Other than that, the heaters themselves don't have the best design really. The fuel intake is between the combustion intake and exhaust ports (although nearer the intake than exhaust) so there is a risk that in time the fuel line might be affected by the heat, perish and allow fuel to come into contact with the very hot exhaust. To mitigate this risk somewhat I have binned the spectacularly crap chinesium fuel line these all seem to come with and replaced it with some actually fuel rated hose and good fuel line clamps. I'll have to inspect this line at least annually in autumn to make sure there's no signs of degradation but it is miles better than it was. Other people have had these fitted and running for years with thousands of hours of runtime with no issues so I don't think it needs anything more than that really.

For the rest of the obvious risks, I keep the kero tank at floor level and it is well away from any sources of heat, electricity etc and it cannot be knocked over unless you're actively trying to. I'm awaiting some eyelets so I can strap the tank in place just for even more safety in that respect. An exterior bunded tank would be really nice (and massively overkill) but I have nowhere to put it that wouldn't be an eyesore or cause me other problems so I'll just have to make do with the tank being inside.
 
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I don't have a viable way of running one of these at the moment, but if I did (at my next house, for example), I'd be very interested. I watched a couple of YouTube videos that popped up on my feed last year and they seem really decent if set up properly.
 
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I have one to install in my shed / workshop... haven't found the time as yet.

There was a huge list of Vevor items including the heaters that have been 'recallled / banned' but from what I saw it was mostly to do with the instructions not having the correct warnings rather than any specific product issues.
Most of the Vevor stuff is generic and sold under many other brands which have not been banned yet.

Seem decent enough but do coke up after use. Worth checking the videos on optimising fueling.
Running parafin though now and then is pretty good to clean them out without a full strip as it burns hotter and cleaner.
 
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GerrysDIY tried one of these a year ago and he liked it.


I've learned a lot about oil burners from his other videos, demystifying them, they really are quite simple.

 

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Seem decent enough but do coke up after use. Worth checking the videos on optimising fueling.
Running parafin though now and then is pretty good to clean them out without a full strip as it burns hotter and cleaner.

Not all of them can be tinkered with in terms of fuelling. Mine has the "latest" control ECU and cannot be adjusted at all save for being able to put it into plateau (Alpine/high altitude) mode. I've done the sums by measuring the tick rate of the pump and so on and it is in line with what the YouTubers are setting them to. At full chat mine continuously varies the fuelling rate based on the combustion temperature so I think that there's now some internal calibration going on. If you have the older type then yes, you absolutely should tune them.

BTW, Kerosene is a type of paraffin ;)
 
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Do you have any details on the esp32 setup?

I've run one in my shed for about 3 years now and recently added an EGR cooler, small waterpump and radiator and I reckon I'm getting another 400-500w of heat that would have been wasted too. I'd like to automate
 

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Apologies for the lack of exhaust pics, I'll get them at some point!

How noisy is it?

The fan is 'fanlike' in that it isn't quiet by any stretch of the imagination but not really louder than your average cheap fan heater. Certainly quieter than a portable AC unit. You wouldn't want it on in your living room while you're trying to watch TV for example... Of course, there are ways to deal with the noise - the whole thing could feasibly live outside and the hot air be ducted in which would greatly reduce the noise. By far the most intrusive noise is the fuel pump. These tick quite loudly multiple times per second as they are solenoid pumps. You can get quieter replacements, some claim to be "silent" but that is of course subject to interpretation (ie a total lie). The best solution is to isolate it as much as possible and if it really bothers you just box it up with some insulation to reduce the noise as much as possible. I don't particularly care about the ticking myself so I've made next to no attempts to quieten it :)

Do you have any details on the esp32 setup?

I've run one in my shed for about 3 years now and recently added an EGR cooler, small waterpump and radiator and I reckon I'm getting another 400-500w of heat that would have been wasted too. I'd like to automate

The board is a Freenove ESP32 WROOM board. Chose that because the matching Freenove breakout board matches up with the pinout perfectly and is quite a nice "thing". Definitely unnecessary and any ESP32 board will do. The board itself is flashed with ESPHome just because it plays slightly nicer with HomeAssistant when you're not tinkering with it, at the expense of making changes being slightly less easy than with Tasmota. Its a case of picking your poison here, Tasmota is arguably better in as much as changes are easy and instant but you have to deal with MQTT whereas ESPHome is all YAML-driven and all changes must be compiled which takes a while and is especially irritating if you want to make several testing changes back to back in quick succession. ESPHome talks to HA via REST and is quite a lot quicker to react compared to MQT.

Temperature is measured with a DHT22-compatible sensor, RF transmission is an STX882 and although the cheapo receivers I had worked just fine, I'd just buy an SRX882S when you get the STX882 and that will be totally fine. To program it, you just have to press the buttons on your remote and then grab the output from the logs.

YAML:
sensor:
- platform: dht
  pin: 2
  temperature:
    name: "Garage Air Temperature"
  humidity:
    name: "Garage Humidity"
  update_interval: 60s

remote_receiver:
  pin: 23
  dump:
    - rc_switch
  # Settings to optimize recognition of RF devices
  tolerance: 50%
  filter: 250us
  idle: 4ms
  buffer_size: 2kb
 
remote_transmitter:
  pin: 14
  # RF uses a 100% carrier signal
  carrier_duty_percent: 100%

switch:
  - platform: template
    name: Diesel Heater OFF
    optimistic: true
    turn_on_action:
      - remote_transmitter.transmit_rc_switch_raw:
          code: '101110101001100001010100'
          protocol: 1
          repeat:
            times: 5000
            wait_time: 00s
  - platform: template
    name: Diesel Heater ON
    optimistic: true
    turn_on_action:
      - remote_transmitter.transmit_rc_switch_raw:
          code: '101110101001100001011000'
          protocol: 1
          repeat:
            times: 10000
            wait_time: 0s

Once you have the codes you just update the code: value for each operation and set a value for how many times you want it to repeat. I tried finessing this but it made it unreliable so it now sends the codes 5,000 times to turn it off and 10,000 to turn it on. I'll make them both 5,000 now it is reliably turning it off every time.

After that, I just have a simple automation routine in HA that detects the temperature falling below a set point (5c in my case) for more than a certain amount of time (5 mins) and then sends the code to turn it on. I have another automation to turn it off once the temperature has exceeded the warm set point for a period of time. It is important that you don't have it cycling too quickly. The heater takes a good while to shut down after it has been turned off as it keeps the fans running to prevent overheating so you need to make sure there's likely to be plenty of time between it turning off and needing to come back on again.


Would you mind sharing your EGR setup? It seems like the most logical route, although prices of EGR coolers can vary wildly it seems! I am specifically worried about water pressure/boiling if the rad can't dump the heat fast enough for whatever reason. I've seen some videos where people are using quite small radiators but that seems very risky to me... I'd much rather use a full-size car radiator to make sure it could dump enough heat via convection to prevent overpressure/boiling if the fan were to fail.
 
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From memory its a vauxhall egr cooler, tbh I just bought the cheapest one I could find on ebay. Had to rejig the exhaust inlet and faff around to get it to fit over the exhaust for the heater.

Pump is a 12v "solar hot water" pump from the rainforest. Rad is 600x300 that I had lying around. With the heater on full tilt it gets up to about 50c. Only thing I need to do really is add a header tank of some sort. Running it with some OAT coolant I had kicking around :)

Thanks for the code, i've got a couple of wrooms here but have never messed with esp32 at all, suppose this is a good place to learn! I might come back for some help in the future if thats alright!
 
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I don't know a huge amount about these, but I know that in the campervan circles theres a guy in Australia which sells a product called an "Afterburner" which gives you full bluetooth/wifi support and loads of other features!

Might be of some use to someone :)

Thats the guy. I tried him last year and he said he will not ship to the uk post brexit, too much paperwork
 
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Thats the guy. I tried him last year and he said he will not ship to the uk post brexit, too much paperwork

Yeah I remember something like this, but I believe you can get the plans and build it yourself? Or there was a guy who started doing them in the UK?

Been a few years since my campervan and all the research that went along with it!
 

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From memory its a vauxhall egr cooler, tbh I just bought the cheapest one I could find on ebay. Had to rejig the exhaust inlet and faff around to get it to fit over the exhaust for the heater.

Pump is a 12v "solar hot water" pump from the rainforest. Rad is 600x300 that I had lying around. With the heater on full tilt it gets up to about 50c. Only thing I need to do really is add a header tank of some sort. Running it with some OAT coolant I had kicking around :)

Thanks for the code, i've got a couple of wrooms here but have never messed with esp32 at all, suppose this is a good place to learn! I might come back for some help in the future if thats alright!

That looks really neatly installed and has given me a few ideas so thanks :) I particularly like the way you've done that ducting, I'll be looking to emulate that once I've fitted the roof insulation in the next couple of weeks.
 
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That looks really neatly installed and has given me a few ideas so thanks :) I particularly like the way you've done that ducting, I'll be looking to emulate that once I've fitted the roof insulation in the next couple of weeks.

I'm on the lookout for a bit of 3 or 4 inch metal round ducting to do a run down the middle of the garage, i'm too tight to pay out for it new :p
 
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