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but they dont like it when you do it to the new parts
as said above: get the engine hot, remove plug, allow to cool, fit new plug.
Using an impact driver to remove stuck spark plug?
- Thread starter shauncr91
- Start date
but they dont like it when you do it to the new parts
as said above: get the engine hot, remove plug, allow to cool, fit new plug.
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Get the motor hot then loosen the plug if its still too tight and wont budge I suggest you either buy some KROIL and let it soak in, or take it to a good engine specialist who can remove the plug for you and repair the thread if required.
But please don't just drop it off at a garage and tell them you want a plug change without telling them there may be a seized plug !!! that's just not right !
and Never ever, ever, ever use an impact driver or air tools on spark plugs that's just asking for trouble believe me, I've had to fix these disasters and more for garages and home mechanics alike.
But please don't just drop it off at a garage and tell them you want a plug change without telling them there may be a seized plug !!! that's just not right !
and Never ever, ever, ever use an impact driver or air tools on spark plugs that's just asking for trouble believe me, I've had to fix these disasters and more for garages and home mechanics alike.
With my 3000E capri engine I used to be really anal about taking the spark plugs out at regular three month intervals, they were a pig to get to being below the rockers and only an extension with a flexible link could get to them.
Soaking in penetrating oil and constant pressure sounds the best way to go here.
Soaking in penetrating oil and constant pressure sounds the best way to go here.
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Ive had the same problem with the 1st plug on my Fiesta ST, the best method was as already stated, is get the engine really hot, then try to remove with a longer bar.
Once cooled down use copper slip to clean the threads out before putting new plug in. Try not to leave much copper slip on there when fitting new plug as it will make it easier to tighten it too hard again.
Once cooled down use copper slip to clean the threads out before putting new plug in. Try not to leave much copper slip on there when fitting new plug as it will make it easier to tighten it too hard again.
Ultimatly the correct method depends on why the plugs have siezed.
Ford plugs are normally a taper seal without a gasket. They only really need to be nipped tight when installing. It is very easy to over-tighten them! If they have been overtightened, it is necessary to break the friction on the taper before the plug can be unscrewed (Once this is done, they should unscrew easily)
The problem is that the metal on the body of the plug is slightly thinner just above the taper point. If something is going to break, this is where it is going to do it! (Leaving the threaded section including the offending taper stuck in the head!)
The old push rod fiestas/KA/etc were particularly vulnerable to this because in addition to the above water would get into the plug wells causing corrosion that both added to the seizure effect and weakened the plug body. Ford did make a "Special Tool;" for removing the threaded section on these should the plug break on removal. But a suitable sized TORX bit hammered into the hole also worked well!
FF to the current day and water accumulating in the "V" of the Ford 16V engine is not uncommon due to windscreen wash jet problems causing similar corrosion problems to the old push rod engines. Combine that with modern service intervals recommending plug changes with 2 or more year intervals and by the time you want to do the job you can face real problems!
You can try all the "try it hot, use Plus gas, etc" tricks but ultimately if it is going to break it is going to break!
You shouldn't need to take the head off to repair the damage however. It can be done in situ but I would not advise it as a DIY job unless you have done it before. Heli-coiling looks simple but it does take a degree of skill. If you want to try it yourself get a scrap cylinder head from a breakers to practice on first.
The second problem is if the threads themselves are binding. If this is the case even if you do get the plug to move, it will still be very stiff. (And despite everything might still eventually break)
If the latter proves to be the case, "Crack" all the plugs to relieve the taper and then soak in penetrating oil and leave over night. (With the taper cracked the penetrating oil should now be able to seep into the screw thread hopefully relieving it)
When undoing them, do it a bit at a time (IE Wind out a bit, wind back, wind out a bit more! Rinse and Repeat until it is out. Be patient!)
If they are really bound then there is a chance that the plug will remove some alloy as it comes out (You will be able to see this on the plug threads if this happens)
Minor thread damage can be mitigated by careful use of a suitable plug thread tap/restorer. This should allow you to fit the new plugs but should not be regarded as a "Fix" You will be on notice to do a more permanent repair when convenient.
Serious damage will need a helicoil (See above)
Even if there is no thread damage it is still a good idea to run a tap through the threads to make sure they are clean before installing the new plugs with just a smear of copper grease and being careful not to over tighten them (They really do not need to be done tight! just like an oil filter!)
Personally I do not like leaving plugs in for more than two years, and with Fords a new set of leads with the plug change is also advisable (Lead failure within a month or so of a plug change if they are not replaced is sufficiently common for me to not want to risk it)
Lastly, If the engine is getting wet, deal with the wash jets! they are not expensive. Leaking can also damage the core plugs in the cylinder head causing yet more problems!
Good Luck!
Ford plugs are normally a taper seal without a gasket. They only really need to be nipped tight when installing. It is very easy to over-tighten them! If they have been overtightened, it is necessary to break the friction on the taper before the plug can be unscrewed (Once this is done, they should unscrew easily)
The problem is that the metal on the body of the plug is slightly thinner just above the taper point. If something is going to break, this is where it is going to do it! (Leaving the threaded section including the offending taper stuck in the head!)
The old push rod fiestas/KA/etc were particularly vulnerable to this because in addition to the above water would get into the plug wells causing corrosion that both added to the seizure effect and weakened the plug body. Ford did make a "Special Tool;" for removing the threaded section on these should the plug break on removal. But a suitable sized TORX bit hammered into the hole also worked well!
FF to the current day and water accumulating in the "V" of the Ford 16V engine is not uncommon due to windscreen wash jet problems causing similar corrosion problems to the old push rod engines. Combine that with modern service intervals recommending plug changes with 2 or more year intervals and by the time you want to do the job you can face real problems!
You can try all the "try it hot, use Plus gas, etc" tricks but ultimately if it is going to break it is going to break!
You shouldn't need to take the head off to repair the damage however. It can be done in situ but I would not advise it as a DIY job unless you have done it before. Heli-coiling looks simple but it does take a degree of skill. If you want to try it yourself get a scrap cylinder head from a breakers to practice on first.
The second problem is if the threads themselves are binding. If this is the case even if you do get the plug to move, it will still be very stiff. (And despite everything might still eventually break)
If the latter proves to be the case, "Crack" all the plugs to relieve the taper and then soak in penetrating oil and leave over night. (With the taper cracked the penetrating oil should now be able to seep into the screw thread hopefully relieving it)
When undoing them, do it a bit at a time (IE Wind out a bit, wind back, wind out a bit more! Rinse and Repeat until it is out. Be patient!)
If they are really bound then there is a chance that the plug will remove some alloy as it comes out (You will be able to see this on the plug threads if this happens)
Minor thread damage can be mitigated by careful use of a suitable plug thread tap/restorer. This should allow you to fit the new plugs but should not be regarded as a "Fix" You will be on notice to do a more permanent repair when convenient.
Serious damage will need a helicoil (See above)
Even if there is no thread damage it is still a good idea to run a tap through the threads to make sure they are clean before installing the new plugs with just a smear of copper grease and being careful not to over tighten them (They really do not need to be done tight! just like an oil filter!)
Personally I do not like leaving plugs in for more than two years, and with Fords a new set of leads with the plug change is also advisable (Lead failure within a month or so of a plug change if they are not replaced is sufficiently common for me to not want to risk it)
Lastly, If the engine is getting wet, deal with the wash jets! they are not expensive. Leaking can also damage the core plugs in the cylinder head causing yet more problems!
Good Luck!
And it's out 
Kept putting oil down the hole to free it up then took it for a long drive to get the engine hot and it came out hassle free with a breaker bar.
Thanks for the tip on getting it warm guys it worked a treat
Kept putting oil down the hole to free it up then took it for a long drive to get the engine hot and it came out hassle free with a breaker bar.
Thanks for the tip on getting it warm guys it worked a treat