Warming / cooling a N/A engine
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Soldato
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Mechanical sympathy applys to anything mechanical beleive it or not 
Soldato
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[TW]Fox;19739000 said:I've got an oil temperature guage instead of an mpg guage (This makes me a Sad Panda as I liked my mpg guage) and no water temp guage.
So the only indication of how warm the car is the one measure that takes ages to get up to temperature
I would have thought that with the idrive you wouldn't need a gauge.
[TW]Fox;19739000 said:
I would much rather have a oil temp guage than a water temp one (or that MPG needle that swings back and forth like a metronome). I assume the iDrive would simply ping at you if the water temp was getting too hot. Although having a water temp guage is really good if you're diagnosing a dodgy thermostat, but meh.
[TW]Fox;19739000 said:So the only indication of how warm the car is the one measure that takes ages to get up to temperature
Out of interest, how long does it take the oil to become 70-90c for:
-Town driving
-Dual carriageways
-A roads
I cannot see any point at all letting an N/A engine sit there idling after a drive. All the engine will be doing is sitting there in its own heat with no airflow being forced through the radiator thus it gets warmer if anything! Also whilst idling oil pressure will be lower. It is wise to not load the engine up until the oil is up to temperature.
![[TW]Fox](/data/man-of-honor/2009.png){kind=avatar}
I have no idea, 15 minutes perhaps?
Extreme example but of friend of mines missus managed to wreck a car in the space of a year, ok it was a 12yr old 1.2, but it was regularly redlined up the street in the morning from stone cold, even in winter.
They said the car was a lemon until I pointed out the above, I actaually warned them before hand they would end up wrecking the engine, needless to say the new car gets treated more gently.
My car only takes about ten mins to get up to temp, I've never seen the point in deliberatly causing wear...
They said the car was a lemon until I pointed out the above, I actaually warned them before hand they would end up wrecking the engine, needless to say the new car gets treated more gently.
My car only takes about ten mins to get up to temp, I've never seen the point in deliberatly causing wear...
On the subject of cooldown for n/a cars, I dont think its nessesary, turbos need to spin down for the sake of the turbo unit itself, rather than the engine, which will still idle at normal operating temperature, leaving an N/A engine idling wont reduce temps, it will increase them if anything, as the radiator is not getting any airflow.
Suspected warped head, but it wasnt diagnosed properly, wasnt worth it due to the value of the car.
I have the BMW wheel with oil temp and water temp display on it, the oil is up to temp in around 15minutes water 20+minutes. The straight six taxes ages to get up to temperature.
[TW]Fox;19739000 said:I've got an oil temperature guage instead of an mpg guage (This makes me a Sad Panda as I liked my mpg guage) and no water temp guage.
So the only indication of how warm the car is the one measure that takes ages to get up to temperature
You really prefer BMW's crappy mpg gauge than the oil temp gauge??
That gauge was the single most annoying thing about my 330Ci.
Sure do. Love that guage.
I like the MPG guage tbh
The dag has no coolant or oil temp gauges, but I figure it's a diesel so it doesn't really matter.
Mine doesn't really take all that long to come up to temprature at all. I generally drive about 2 miles and the thing is at just below 90 degrees... from there on out any amount of beans is fine. when im finished I put it in the garage and turn it off. I figure it gets up to temp pretty quickly because of the nature of the flat 6 engine.
Leaving any car to idle after a jouney isn't something anyone should be doing.
All cars rely on air to cool the coolant/engine so having it sit cooking in static air is just silly. You're actually making your car hotter!
Same applies to most turbo cars who's owners keep them ticking over after a run. Many turbo's are oil cooled and at idle oil pressure is at its lowest. So sitting there with the engine running is not only having the same effect as an NA car at idle but also there's potential to starve the turbo of oil plus the heat soak back into the system from the turbo itself. Most of the people with turbo timers don't realise they're doing more damage than good.
The best practice with any car is to take the last part of your journey at a slower pace allowing a period of time where the engine isn't under much load, then switching it off when you've reached your destination.
All cars rely on air to cool the coolant/engine so having it sit cooking in static air is just silly. You're actually making your car hotter!
Same applies to most turbo cars who's owners keep them ticking over after a run. Many turbo's are oil cooled and at idle oil pressure is at its lowest. So sitting there with the engine running is not only having the same effect as an NA car at idle but also there's potential to starve the turbo of oil plus the heat soak back into the system from the turbo itself. Most of the people with turbo timers don't realise they're doing more damage than good.
The best practice with any car is to take the last part of your journey at a slower pace allowing a period of time where the engine isn't under much load, then switching it off when you've reached your destination.
9k rpm normally warms it up in double quick time
In all seriousness I always give it a good 10mins (at least) before I even think about heading towards VTEC. If it's a short joureny then before it's even warmed up, I'll be cooling it down
In all seriousness I always give it a good 10mins (at least) before I even think about heading towards VTEC. If it's a short joureny then before it's even warmed up, I'll be cooling it down
