Watercooling Core i7 / 4870X2 - £400 Budget...

Firestar_3x · 27 May 2009 at 10:09

Just got the latest EK supreme and i'm very happy with it, cracking block for the money imho.

RoEy · 27 May 2009 at 10:14

Firestar_3x said:
Just got the latest EK supreme and i'm very happy with it, cracking block for the money imho.

Are you referring to the LT? Does it come with everything you need to install the block? Does the backplate have a cut out in the middle?

RoEy

w3bbo · 27 May 2009 at 10:51

1) I've heard the Swiftech GTZ is just as good as the Heatkiller and Koolance 350A, plus it's a hell of a lot easier to mount. Is this true?

(PLUS) I have read that a few people have had problems fitting the Heatkiller on my board (Asus Rampage 2 Extreme X58), due to the board having a small chip behind the CPU socket. Apparently the Heatkiller back plate obstructs it. Is there a way around this?

Yes, don't use a backplate. The i7 range of boards already have a backplate. However, if you are a little clumsy and overtighten the screws then maybe a backplate is a good idea. I'm unsure of the rampage layout as I have never used one. The Heatkiller is just the best block. Stay away from the Koolance for multi block setups, much the same as the EK supreme. The next best choice is the GTZ which is a doddle to fit.

2) Where the radiator is concerned I would only be interested in running one loop and wanting one radiator, hence the reason I thought the TFC 480 Quad would do the job for me. Do you agree?

Yup the TFC 480 is a great rad and just squeezes into the bottom of the TJ07iirc. For a single loop it's a good choice.

3) I have seen the custom made rad mounts for tj07 but it's not compatible for the TFC 480. So I was going to get some ABS blocks as stated and make my own rad mount (like murdermod), which was what the tape was for too.

Aslong as you don't mind a little D.I.Y then you will be fine I guess.

4) I've ordered some danger den fatboy barbs and I'll get some Bitspower G1/4" Gun metal Angle 1/2" Fittings too.

Nice choice.

5) So it looks like the pump/res combo is the better option compared to the ek res’s that a lot use in the tj07. The only thing that concerned me with this is the extra length of tubing needed as I wouldn’t have a res next to the motherboard.

Does this matter much as I have seen tubing resting on gpu's that have to go all the way to the bottom compartment?

Put the DDC 18w res and XSPC pump in the bottom compartment or hide it away in the 5 1/4 area.

6) Is there much difference between the koolance 4870x2 block and other brands or is it definitely worth getting?

No difference really, go for whichever you like the look of.

7) Isn't it better to get clear fluid for the loop as I've heard the dyes etc, can clog things up after a while?

Yes it is but you said you wanting black tubing and UV. The feser black glows purple under UV iirc.

RoEy · 27 May 2009 at 12:00

Thanks for your help w3bbo! Just a couple more things to query:

What backplate can accommodate the Heatkiller then? Plus, some I see are black and others are just copper looking, are they different models or just different aesthetically?

Isn't the Koolance 4870x2 restrictive or does that just apply to CPU blocks? Just thinking are all Koolance products restrictive?

I have two potential layouts; would you be able to have a look at them and advise which one you'd go with, if any?

I think I prefer the pump before cpu

With regards to a 'Drain Line' would it be best to attach it to the outlet of the pump? Any advice about a drain line would be great.

Is it ok attaching the tubing to the barbs when they are in the PC?

Just don't want to put pressure on parts that's all but I do know I'll need to heat up the tubing before it goes on. Plus I'll do a test loop before it's in the machine anyway to check the blocks for leaks.

Are there any decent sites that give you good advice and tips on installing a modern water cooling setup step-by-step?

What are the tools you need too? The little bits and bobs like funnel etc..

Finally... glad you agreed with most of the parts I picked!

Once again, thank you very much for your continued support!

RoEy

PS - This is damn hard to dedicate the time I know it needs when I have a wife and child! Needs more time lol

.:SAmSuNG:. · 27 May 2009 at 12:54

What backplate can accommodate the Heatkiller then? Plus, some I see are black and others are just copper looking, are they different models or just different aesthetically?

Not sure on backplate but google should help you there. Im pretty sure theres a thread at XS on the liquid cooling section about the HK and Rampage. Theres a copper version or the normal LT which are both the same really except for the material the top is made from. The LC is cheaper but still quite good i think.

Isn't the Koolance 4870x2 restrictive or does that just apply to CPU blocks? Just thinking are all Koolance products restrictive?

Just the CPU block you mentioned. Its a known fact its only really good in loops with very high flow and low restriction. GPU blocks are very very nice but if your going with HK cpu block then you could go with a HK X2 block that matches nicely and for the same price.

I have two potential layouts; would you be able to have a look at them and advise which one you'd go with, if any?

I think I prefer the pump before cpu

2nd gets my vote.

With regards to a 'Drain Line' would it be best to attach it to the outlet of the pump? Any advice about a drain line would be great.

Stick a T line in at the lowest part of your loop. Just run a T line off the loop with a bit of tubing and either a fillport on the end or a ball valve.

Is it ok attaching the tubing to the barbs when they are in the PC?

Yah you have to really as need to work out all nice lengths. just be careful not to put silly amounts of pressure pushing it on.

Just don't want to put pressure on parts that's all but I do know I'll need to heat up the tubing before it goes on. Plus I'll do a test loop before it's in the machine anyway to check the blocks for leaks.

Are there any decent sites that give you good advice and tips on installing a modern water cooling setup step-by-step?

Its really pretty simple. Theres a few sites but hard to link them as Ocuk rules. I think XS have some stickys about it on there liquid cooling section.

What are the tools you need too? The little bits and bobs like funnel etc..

Buy some tubing cutters and a funnel may be handy other than that you dont need a lot. Screwdriver i guess.

RoEy · 27 May 2009 at 14:05

Thanks for your help Samsung!

I've looked into the HeatKiller / R2E issue and it seems that when you purchase the HeatKiller backplate it comes with 4 red spacers which rectifies the problem....pheewwww....

Not sure which I prefer the look of, LT or Copper, the copper one is 250g heavier though...bizarre. How difficult is the HeatKiller to fit? As obviously, I am a beginner but I do plenty of research before I buy anything.

I've looked at the Heatkiller 4870X2 Block and it does look good and I've found it for £70 but none in stock

I think I may struggle to find one to be honest. Would the Koolance 4870x2 and Heatkiller CPU block work well together?

I will have the res, pump and radiator in the bottom compartment so could I attach the T line to any of them as they are all the lowest in the loop? A few people have suggested attaching it to the pump.

I too, think I will go with the second layout, just looks neater and more efficient.

Thanks,

RoEy

PaulyD · 27 May 2009 at 14:07

What Samsung said.

You will need to attach the tubing when its in there and make sure you cut a little too much than not enough, annoying being an inch short reaching a block and having to cut a slightly longer length!

No real guide needed, just mount the blocks outside the PC, test for leaks, then put everything in the case and redo the tubing, nice and neat and refill.

Tool wise again all you need is a screwdriver/allen key for blocks (though would come with allen key if thats how it attaches) and a pair of scissors to cut tubing

PaulyD · 27 May 2009 at 14:29

second loop is the neater loop so would go for that, be better than having tubing going all over the place.

HK block fits by having a nut on the underside of the mobo which a "standoff" screws into (like a mobo standoff) then a spring loaded on another bolt goes through the block and into that. Haven't used the backplate on my build

Koolance block would be fine with the HK as it has such little restriction.

T line will want to be after the pump as well I believe, though I have never used one so comment for sure. I just disconnect a tube and let the water out that way!

RoEy · 27 May 2009 at 14:42

PaulyD said:
What Samsung said.

You will need to attach the tubing when its in there and make sure you cut a little too much than not enough, annoying being an inch short reaching a block and having to cut a slightly longer length!

No real guide needed, just mount the blocks outside the PC, test for leaks, then put everything in the case and redo the tubing, nice and neat and refill.

Tool wise again all you need is a screwdriver/allen key for blocks (though would come with allen key if thats how it attaches) and a pair of scissors to cut tubing

PaulyD said:
second loop is the neater loop so would go for that, be better than having tubing going all over the place.

HK block fits by having a nut on the underside of the mobo which a "standoff" screws into (like a mobo standoff) then a spring loaded on another bolt goes through the block and into that. Haven't used the backplate on my build

Koolance block would be fine with the HK as it has such little restriction.

T line will want to be after the pump as well I believe, though I have never used one so comment for sure. I just disconnect a tube and let the water out that way!

Thanks for the advice mate. Think I'm definitely going for the HeatKiller copper. Been told the HeatKiller 4870x2 block is available in a week, so I'll do some research on it to see if it’s any good. It’s the LT one though, so does it follow the same trend like the CPU, COPPER or LT? Or is there only an LT model? Having said that the Koolance GPU block looks brilliant, just can't find anyone in the UK that stocks them....

RoEy

PaulyD · 27 May 2009 at 15:18

Yep koolance you will need to order from abroad or request somewhere to get them in for you.

From what I have seen their is only the LT block for the 4870x2, the cpu block comes in the copper, LT and LC versions I believe. Both are very nice blocks and will perform great either way

RoEy · 27 May 2009 at 15:35

PaulyD said:
Yep koolance you will need to order from abroad or request somewhere to get them in for you.

From what I have seen their is only the LT block for the 4870x2, the cpu block comes in the copper, LT and LC versions I believe. Both are very nice blocks and will perform great either way

Yeah I know this now. Researching - sweats - .....

I'm going to get the HeatKiller Copper and the Koolance gpu block.

Just struggling to find the TFC 480 Quad. OCUK used to sell it too! :mad:

Thanks again,

RoEy

PaulyD · 27 May 2009 at 15:49

Good choices and won't be disappointed

When you ordering the bits?

RoEy · 27 May 2009 at 18:51

PaulyD said:
Good choices and won't be disappointed

When you ordering the bits?

Ordering it tomorrow morning and should take around a week to get to me as the Koolance block has to be ordered in. Just can't seem to find the TFC 480 though. :mad:

Thanks,

RoEy

techmonkey · 27 May 2009 at 19:12

You can hit 4.0Ghz on an i7 easily enough without the need for liquid cooling. I'm using a TRUE Black to cool my i7 920, which is stable at 4.0Ghz, and have managed to bench at 4.4Ghz.

PaulyD · 27 May 2009 at 20:20

Doesn't mean he shouldn't go for watercooling though

RoEy · 27 May 2009 at 22:23

PaulyD said:
Doesn't mean he shouldn't go for watercooling though

Too right!

Water all the way...

RoEy

RoEy · 28 May 2009 at 14:43

Just to update:

Ordered the following so far:

CPU – HeatKiller 3 Copper

GPU - Koolance VID487X2

Radiator - TFC Quad 480

Pump / Res - XSPC DDC 18w Ultra Pump/Reservoir

Fittings - Danger Den Fat boys

Fans - Scythe S-FLEX 1600RPM Ultra Quiet 120mm Fan

Fan controller - Zalman ZM-MFC1 Plus Black Multi Fan Controller

Few more bits to get but it's getting there.

Thanks to everyone who has help me.

RoEy